JZRIV

I remember when I could buy one like that for $250! 😬 It was a buyers market in the late 70s for 60s Rivs. Gas Hogs!

Here is best pic I have of an original.

As far as I know that specific part is not reproduced but you may find something close enough. I've sold them used so that's a possibility but removing them without cracking the old rubber is a tedious process. would need to find one from a northern US or north eastern US otherwise they will be dried like a brick from parts car in arid climates. This looks close. Maybe if you google the part number you might find a vendor who lists the height dimension. There is a tab to "ask a question" so you could ask for dimensions. https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k6607

Some options from Rock auto. I searched 66 but think all ST400 should be same

They are available. Pretty much a universal item. Just google ball joint dust boot. Many suppliers with some variation in material and style. You'll need to pop the ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle to replace.

More profanity has always seemed to help. Seriously, as Telriv said having two people helps. One to manipulate the booster and the other under dash to pry it off the pin.

#975 15x7 8th generation wheel from a 1982. Not sure what model it was available on. Surprised it does not have the seamless face like earlier wheels. https://www.teambuick.com/reference/rallye_wheels.php

Agree with Tom T the front being off can affect the rear. Spring orientation is more critical in front due to the lower control arm & suspension physics. On a long car a little off in front could make the rear off a lot more. Besides weight, compression distance can also be affected by resistance to movement in the suspension bushings but since everything is moving smoothly with no binding probably not the cause. I had same issue in past with a leaf-sprung pickup. Left rear 1.5" low. Drove me nuts looking at it on a level surface. I went through all the theoretical issues with spring eye bushings front and back and whatnot but still same problem though I did not replace springs as I wasn't convinced that was the issue. I finally shimmed the left rear spring and got on with life. Oddly enough I only had to shim 5/8 to get L & R trim heights to match. Sometimes we end up chasing ghosts on these old vehicles that drain our wallet and enjoyment!

Yea not likely there is another manufacturer for these than Lectric Limited. I've purchased 3 or 4 sets from Lectric over the years and my experience has been they are a high quality wire aside from being very authentic appearing. Here's a pretty good shot of them

Believe Mister Fab is working on a 67 430. Ahh the joys of restoration! 😬 When you say "rebore" you mean cutting the crank bearing journal .040 under? I think it will be OK at .040 but they screwed that up bad. A "specialist" huh. LOL. But yea, I'd want another crank though it might be wishful hoping since you are across ocean. Check TA Performance they list mains at .040 http://www.taperformance.com/categories.asp Another source to try is Jim Weise at TriShield Performance. They are a leading 430/455 engine builder in US. https://www.trishieldperformance.com/

Came across this locally on a routine Riv search. If I ever saw one of these I can't recall it. How common are they? I was never into the model type toys and collectibles. https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/clt/d/pittsburgh-cox-thimble-drome-1964-buick/7581198585.html Selling rare cox thimble drome 1/20 scale 1964 buick riviera tether car.powered by .049 glow engine.car is in real nice condition with only the left wing window pulled missing .no box comes with instructions. $200.00 call

Welcome to the Forum Alan - Its a side post battery. Old original SR89 seems to stick in mind but do not take that as gospel without checking. Its listed in shop manual. Authentic appearing batteries are available but pricey. Internet says 78S Group for modern Delco equivalent. For the most correct battery cables go to https://www.lectriclimited.com/ and search 72 Riviera then scroll through list. Yes typical red positive and black neg cable. Careful if you buy generic cables to save money. Verify they are full copper and correct gauge and not copper clad.

What was the determining indicator it was not a GS? Did you find the axle stamp? So hard to state a value without driving the car and knowing what has been gone through mechanically. Plus, as I said earlier the modifications done, and rear bumper being tweaked would have varied value adjustment depending on the buyer as well as the color combination may speak to some more than others. If none of that bothers you and the body is as solid rust free as it looks, doesn't need anything mechanically, A/C works, I'd put it in the $25-$27k range. Hagerty indicates 16.6k for Good condition and 31.4k for excellent. I put the car in between good and excellent. As always you need to see and drive car in person. Seller might be honest but you may have forced them to be. Or they might just be ignorant and or lazy to accurately provide key details. Since they errored on the GS option, you have to assume there are other things not revealed. Apparently you had the car inspected. The level knowledge of the person inspecting relative to old cars and Riviera's specifically can be subject to error. Don't assume they found every problem that might be important to you. If I was in the market for a 67 I'd be around $20k because I'd want to return the modified areas like speaker mods and trunk back to stock as well as correct rear bumper. I only say that as an example of how what is important to you personally can affect value. It might seem that I'm overly critical but I say this seeing so many people over the years that assumed way too much when buying a car like this then had buyers remorse.

This stamp originally came in a box with an NOS A6 A/C compressor so it is not a remake. As you can see it has been used. There are repops available for $27 on ebay with free shipping. I'll start at $ 20 plus shipping or best offer.

The D 255 is a manufacturing date stamp. You can see the circled X (I guess its more like a +) in pic I posted in the "3rd Observation" thread

In the case of this car. We have wrong A/C compressor for 3.42 (assumed at this point based on statistics), no insulation retainer, "possibly" wrong stud in carburetor which does not allow the special air cleaner nut to seat. So if axle stamp indicates no 3.42, I'd be concerned about its legitimacy without any purchase documents or Protecto Plate info to support what would be rare special order like the example Tom provided on his Wildcat GS. To Toms point, if in fact a factory GS was ordered with say a standard 3.07 posi, it would have the smaller diameter A/C pulley and not the larger A/C pulley of the 3.42.... so this remains to be determined. Paying up as is the case for this 67 GS, I'd want pretty good facts to back up its legitimacy as a GS. Deadpurpledog, regardless of all this bantering 🙂 if you really love the car as-is and an in-person inspection validates its appeared condition, GS or not becomes less of a factor in decision. Just remember when you go to resell if it does not have a 3.42 axle you will have an uphill battle convincing buyers its legit. In 67 the GS option had no engine or transmission modification that would increase performance. So the 3.42 ratio becomes more important to its desirability as it definitely makes the car faster when accelerating.

Yes Steve the car does have a limited slip tag as seen in one of the dealer pics. (They were aluminum in 67) but problem is when it comes to seeing the tag one can't assume its a 3.42. There were a good number of cars that came with the 3.07 posi. In my personal 67 travels, 3 of 7 66/67s I've owned had the 3.07 Posi and I've seen many others so equipped. This tells me 3.07 limited slips were fairly common at least in some geographic regions. I'm sure the 3.42 in non GS existed via special order.....but I've never seen or heard of a base model (non GS) equipped with a 3.42. So.... when trying to verify a 67 GS, If a car in question has a 3.42 Limited slip, that significantly increases chances its a factory GS especially if other details are in place. Note I did not say guarantees! Here is what the axle tube stamp should should like.

If goal is a functional system and not factory correct appearing, just take it to a shop and have them weld repair the hole, fix weak hangers, and eliminate the resonators. The system looks pretty solid from what I can see. No point in spending big $$$ replacing something that can be fixed for $150-$200.

That's not the correct stamp. Post the picture of what he sent. The 068 is probably the manufacturing date code which is usually just beyond the circled X. Never saw QA. Again, A GS will have PY and a circle with an X inside right after the PY PY = 3.42 ratio and the circled X = positraction Thanks for following up - Keep trying - I am curious

Are they hesitant getting the axle stamp? If they are the least bit an honest dealer they should want to know they aren't misrepresenting it. Yes I've seen the video. The combination of options of a bucket seat/shifting console and GS is very desirable and brings the best money. I say a solid 20% reduction if not factory GS. The buckets and console alone add good value vs a bench seat car. I'd guess 15-20% so even if not a GS, that option makes it more desirable from a monetary standpoint. The car has some modifications that to me would detract some value, but if you are good with them it doesn't matter. Make sure it has correct switch pitch tranny and wiring from throttle linkage switches to trans is intact. Not uncommon for a tranny to be changed to a common non-switch pitch and to me the switch pitch trans is a very functional attribute on 65-67 Rivs. The rear bumper is pushed in and up a bit in center. If that bothers you, straight replacements have become extremely difficult to find so best bet would be to have that one straightened....if it bothers you. It does look like a pretty nice car from pics and can't see anything other than what's been mentioned that concerns me....BUT there is nothing like having a knowledgeable individual look at it in person before plunking down cash.

Good job! Saved yourself a bunch of $$$. Be sure to do a dry run setting glass in place with no sealer to verify fitment along the repaired area.

There are a couple different ways to do this but I think simplest is: As a backup support, you need a short piece of pipe correct length (Maybe an inch longer than the bushing) and diameter to fit around the inside flange/lip. Then just press in with no risk of bending arm. I have sold replacement A-arms to people who pressed them in without proper support and bent them so you are wise to ask first! I'm sure if you had a ball joint press kit with various size sleeves that would work equally well.

Seems like window might not be going up far enough to begin with if it almost goes under when door is shut. Can you take pic of where top of glass is on seal with door shut? As Tim mentioned there are in and out adjustments for the tracks to help alignment. Often they will have a blob of sealer over them so you may not notice them if its never been removed. There are also short vertical guides maybe 2" long that have the fuzzy strips on them that rub on the inside of glass as it goes up and down to help keep it in position as it is a big piece of big heavy curved glass. When the fuzzy wears away this is typical cause of a vertical scratch line in glass from metal to glass contact. Maybe they got removed or rusted away. I can't make them out on the illustration if they are shown. I've had to reattach new fuzzy strips to many of them over the years. Aligning glass in these is no walk in the park. Main ingredient needed is patience.

Yea, definitely bring your car. Never know when you may get another opportunity. Its a relaxed event with as much focus on people interaction as the cars.

VR1 as shown above, or my favorite for years is Penngrade (10-40 for your 100k mi Riv). I use Penngrade oils for all antique car, truck or motorcycles. https://penngrade1.com/products/high-performance-oils/penngrade-1-partial-synthetic-high-performance-oil-sae-10w-30/