JZRIV

The transition point from door window weather strip to the special quarter window is right where the quarter window and door window meet. If original there is some sort of black nylon tape covering factory joint and there is a metal reinforcement piece that protrudes inside both pieces that can be reused. If the nylon (order whatever its made from) tape is in good condition and with careful removal it can be reused using black RTV to make it stick. Take you time here. Always best to start cutting a little towards the door window side and work your way back to insure a clean joint. To expand on the hard rubber quarter window top seal, that is a specially engineered piece and must have added a lot of manufacturing cost for what it does. Its a complex formed metal housing with all the rubber vulcanized to it, hence why no reproduction. For the most part these held up well in cars that didn't have years of exposure in arid climates. I will say if buying a 2nd gen Riv I wouldn't want to buy one that needed these seals! Very difficult to find good used.

Remove the box/housing from engine side firewall. Very easy with no A/C.

I've replaced just the pitman seal with unit in car. Looks like you also have a leak at the end cap which is just a large oring behind the cap which is held in place with a spring ring. Go to RockAuto.com and drill down through and you will see pic of the pitman seal.

Thanks Steve. I knew I had seen the car before at the nationals but just couldn't place it. Always enjoyed spending time with Al and Kathie.

Yea it does look really nice and a great color combo. I see it was in the 2011 Jan/Feb Review if someone wants to lookup the article and who owned it back then.

Not uncommon. Field winding insulation is breaking down and the heat exaggerates it. Hopefully you have a qualified shop nearby that can rebuild it.

Good Lord! - That is a stunning car you have Matthais. Wow! Thanks for posting pics

Agree not original owner, at least writing the ad anyway. Power door locks and delay wipers.....things that make me go hmmm.

Chris, let me know if you need assistance in decision on which one to like best.....but you probably already know what I would say so its rhetorical I suppose. Congratulations! Amazing that cars this special still turn up and were previously unknown.

That has to be the best for sale photo backdrop I ever saw for a door panels! Nice job Tom

In the case of bearing clearance, I would only trust plastigage because it shows precise clearance after torqueing the bearing cap to spec. Yes one can base clearance using stock rod/bearing specs and how much the crank journals were cut down, but humans make mistakes as well as bearing manufacturers. Plus, unless measuring instruments are calibrated, do you want to trust their accuracy to such a critical part of engine build? Not me! Plastigage verifies the theoretical clearance. How would one accurately measure the ID of a connecting rod with the bearing cap installed and bearing shells in place? Seal installed or not, it won't have effect on bearing clearance check.

Would not use rope. The "One-piece" rear main seal in this link is what I would use. https://www.bopengineering.com/buick_v8.shtml Also if you haven't already, plastigage your rod and main bearings and record readings for a baseline. Yes it will take time but if you have have a problem when engine is started, you'll have confidence bearing clearances are not the issue.

Digging that beautiful rim blow steering wheel and the coolest floor shift console of any Riv!

That is a lovely photo MrAG Riv. Thanks for posting

Lower performance in rpm range vs what it was designed for. Vacuum can also be affected. Many variables play into it though. Typically on a stock cam installed straight up you may not notice in seat of pants feel if its off a couple degrees. The more one is seeking high horsepower, the more important it is to degree it. In my opinion its wise to take the time to check/verify it when assembling the engine no matter what. If you get the engine together and have a problem, you will always wonder if cam setup is the root cause. If it was degreed, then that can be crossed off. Its no fun pulling engine back apart after the fact.

Welcome to the forum MrMajstyk. The floor mounts for seats in the 65 can be extended rearward with basic fabrication skills. 2-3 inches works for most. Doubt you'll have a problem with the 71/72. Generally the center support bearing and mount needs replaced only once on 1st and 2nd generation Rivs and majority of time its because the rubber dries up and breaks apart. Love that 68 Caddy with the stacked headlights. Those are awesome cars. I had a 70. Join ROA if you haven't already. You'll get access to a searchable index of articles from 39 years of Bi-monthly magazines among other benefits.

It is within the realm of possibility that without Glenn C at CARS back in the 80s I would have given up trying to find Riviera parts and sold the Riv and bought a mainstream car. Their booth was the most welcomed site at the big Carlisle swapmeets. Their printed paper catalog was well worn and treasured tool for the hobby.

No, 67 did not have any interior GS designations/ emblems. 66 1 year only glove box emblem.

Do you mean putting clear over old paint?

I am amazed at the condition of car overall for 95k miles and especially driver door armrest. This thing had to be pampered. The quality of the re-paint would be one of the biggest concerns for a car priced in the 50k range.

EmTee what you have circled is the gas tank vent loop. They looped it into the trunk high above tank no chance of fuel spillage at any angle......other than upside down. LOL. One end of pipe is connected to tank via hose and the other end is left open to atmosphere near rubber grommet where it exits back out of trunk. Big wide open vent as far as gas tank vents go. This vent can get clogged when car sits idle outdoors for long periods from mud dobber type wasps but I digress. Yes the drains are unusual but very effective. I've never had them get clogged to where water would back up. Its a very special hose that dumps out above axle. Probably 1.5 or 2" in diameter. The exit end of hose has a very thin rubber flap valve of sorts that lets water out but nothing in. Similar to what you might see on drain boots for older vehicle A/C systems. That hinge cavity is also open to the rear cowl vent (screened) below window.

I sent a PM to Mike NC1968 for you. If he is available I'm sure he'll post. 11D = 4th week of November 1965

This is typical for many forums. They require a few posts and or replies before allowing private messaging. Believe this is to help control spammers. When you say you joined the "club" do you mean joining the forum here or the Riviera Owners Association? Once you join ROA you should be able to get the login info to view the Bimonthly magazines digitally until your hard copy arrives. There are many sources for used and reproduction parts in the classified section. 618-D is the interior trim code. Build code will be on top left of Fisher tag. Here is a pic of 66 trunk

Check with Jenkins Interiors in NC if you want the original type tan weave material. I bought the last original NOS material they had several years ago but pretty sure they reproduced it since then. I hope enough of your original material is intact enough to use as a pattern because they only sell it by the yard. Jenkin Interiors contact Phone: 336-902-0717 or 336-667-4282 Email: music_man_jetliner@yahoo.com 66 Rivs had 3 different trunk patterns depending on build date. Early builds had tan weave material with 1 piece floor section (not cut out for the spare tire cover). The majority of cars had tan weave with the spare tire cover cut out. Late production June 66 went to the black with gray fleck used through 1970. At the this time they also changed the cardboard from gray to black/gray flecked. Gray cardboard was used with the tan weave lining which is not available. Need to purchase black cardboard kit and paint gray if you want to maintain original appearance. The black trunk lining is available in kit form by a member here on the forum. NC1968Riviera and also advertises in the ROA Riview classifieds

Never a stage 1 emblem on grille of 71 GS. NTX is correct on the codes. 71 GS is TA code. So much misleading internet info on this. The 71 GS engine had bigger valves but did not have the cam, carb, distributor, etc of the famed high HP Skylark-bodied Stage 1 Optioned 455 cars. Without the TA engine you'd have to do some more homework to make sure its an original GS. It could be but who knows. It wasn't uncommon even back when these cars were only 2-3 years old for people to put GS emblems on a non-GS car because that's what they really wanted, but didn't buy. Even more common in the last 25 years.