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If you find one in a parts car it most likely will be in very poor condition. Steering wheels that survived father time are in garage kept pampered cars in which the owner isn't going to part. Always a chance a used parts supplier might obtain one through a big lot parts cleanout or someone that removed one to install an aftermarket wheel decades ago and have it sitting on shelf but extremely rare to find. Even most common color "black" in nice shape are difficult to find. Blue is going to be a challenge due to very limited number of blue interiors. Can yours be repaired? There are places that specialize in steering wheel restoration.

I was thinking the 70 GS chrome lid did not have a decal?? I know 71 did not have decal so may be confusing the two. It was common for owners to add the decal on 71s thinking it actually belonged and factory forgot it, or it fell off. I do know factually the 68 (430) chrome lid did not have a decal

No need to remove rivets. Full service truck repair shops are about the only ones left these days that have equipment to turn drums. Many auto parts back in the day had a small machine shop in back (with counter guys that knew how to operate them) to do drums and rotors but that faded away in the 90s. Definitely the bearings and seal should be removed from drums prior to taking it or they will do it for you.

Me too me too!

I'd lean towards the CL one. If the car has been maintained and road ready 20k is not too much. If its going to need tires, brake system work, fluids changed, belts, carb rebuild, fuel hoses, etc then deduct a couple grand. Look to see if it has an original spare. If I could see a good pic of engine that might help determine miles. It could be original based on driver seat appearance....at least from what I can see. I used to like heavily optioned Rivs but after countless hours spent getting and keeping those options working I'd have no problem buying a low optioned car

Wow 2 similar 1970s. Both have hand crank windows. How crazy is that for 1970.

Wonder if this has anything to do with it. No idea of the distribution logistics for the Riview. Your Riview might be a little heavier than usual. LOL

None here in SW PA!

Wow! What a wonderful clean straight example. Congratulations! what interior does it have? Does it by chance have the original spare?

My own experience when matching 66 shadow Turquoise is what Tim mentions above in last sentence. For the initial paint job they scanned my paint chip to get close, then it took an experienced Sherwin Williams Auto paint representative about 3 hours of trial and error and multiple test sprays to finally nail it. So maybe 8 months later after the paint job, a defect occurred and paint lifted in a couple small areas. Shop had to repaint but the formula used to paint the car less than a year prior had already become outdated due to additive changes so the paint rep had to come back to match it. After that, I needed a little touchup paint for inconspicuous areas in the trunk so figured I'd try PaintScratch for speed and simplicity as it just needed to be close. I was blown away when it arrived and was as close to a dead match as could be!

Even if you found a formula it wouldn't be accurate because additives continuously change which changes the formula. I have found Paintscratch.com colors are amazingly accurate. You can order paint from them in every container imaginable. The other option is to find a nicely preserved original 67 Buick paint chip chart and take it to a competent automotive paint jobber and have them scan and match it. Confirm with a test spray compared against the chip.

Its under most tension in down position as you suspect. How much? Not sure exactly but I do know that they are under a lot of tension when window is down. As I recall there is some preload on it in the up position so there is still a little tension on it. Proper tension is important for good up speed and the motor doesn't have to work as hard. I made the mistake many years ago removing a motor under tension. Had it been in the way, I think it would have taken off my hand when it suddenly released. From that point on I had high respect for that tension when working on them.

Me too. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. I'm a dumb old lady selling car because husband died. Take advantage of me and click Buy It Now and send $1000 deposit. She could avoid hassle of ebay, park the car on the street with a for sale sign and sell it fast for that price. 🤔

Yep 66 and 67 had octagon ignition keys. Readily available on ebay.

If you use Search Tempest, you can search and view FB Marketplace listings within distance radius you select. If you want to contact the seller, you'll have to go through someone who has an account. Since this car appears to have been posted in the ROA group, it wouldn't come up on Marketplace unless seller listed it there as well. I am not on FB either and amazingly get through life just fine. LOL 😁

The whole car is in amazing original unhacked condition.

I've seen many 66/67s non GS with the 3:07 posi especially in snowbelt regions. I have never seen a non-GS with the 3.42 but as Ed stated it could be ordered. Most likely case to order back in the day would be if someone was planning towing a trailer. Unless one is driving in snow or mud or drag racing, posi's in these cars are highly overrated and unnecessary and more about bragging rights the way most of us driving classics today. I'd take an open diff 3.07 any day considering modern highway speeds!

The following Info provided by Randall Crain. He believes despite slight difference they should mount same and work.

Based on what I have learned (which is not for certain) the 515 is a sequential shift number for the engine assembly operation during a specific model year. So lets say engine assembly ran 2 shifts 5 days a week. At the end of 4 weeks that would be 40 shifts, and so on. In this case the 515th week would be later in the model year hence the later VIN. I don't know how many shifts a week they actually ran on average but you get the idea. This number "usually" has some relevance to the engine VIN stamp. Also can have relevance to the body build date but I'd expect inconsistencies are a little more common between these two. As we know with any human stamped codes back in the day errors were made. For this number to make more sense one needs to collect various VINs with shift production codes and put them in a spreadsheet.

For anyone looking at this with a 66/67, the straps were were painted the typical semigloss black and then whatever blackout gook may or may not have been sprayed over them.

Ed, I didn't know you had a ranch in CO. LOL 🤣 David, Never heard of RRR. Curious, where did you hear about it?

Yes it can be flushed in car but your concern is legitimate. Pushing the flushing agent uphill requires a steady fairly strong air supply. Assume you have a flushing gun kit and special solvent. This is a messy job. They'll be some oil in the condenser and solvent will need to break it down so it blows out with less volume from the pancake. I think you can probably get it done with the pancake but depending on tank size it could take a few cycles.

Ed, 1966 James, exactly which parts are you looking for? There are ball seat kits out there. Buick Farm, etc. But finding them with ball is difficult

Wow what a treasure trove of great meet photos. Loved all the non-restored patina vehicles. There were quite a few. Thanks Chris for posting link and big thanks to your friend Randy.

WOW!! There's something you don't see too often. Wonder if BS code tranny too