1965rivgs

Bill, He has a '65 so the replacement actuator is exactly the same as the original. Your reference applies to '63 only. Tom

It would make sense to remove the blower motor itself from the housing to ultimately make removing the housing less cumbersome if necessary. So, remove the blower motor, determine if replacing the actuator is within your skill set at that point. If not, then remove the blower housing. This is typical of a repair which becomes self evident after putting tools to work. Tom

The actuator on the bottom of the case controls the outside/recirc door. The actuator on the firewall ductwork controls the heat/AC door...they are the same part. Tom Mooney

NOT parts manuals...SERVICE BULLETINS Tom

Do your homework, starting in '69 most if not all full size GM cars came with a variable ratio steering gearbox. The variable ratio box will bring down the standard first gen box from approximately 4.75 turns lock to lock to 3.25 turns...and you will get the benefit of the slowest ratio in the center position which speeds up as the box turns to left or right. At some point in time, maybe the early '80's, can't remember off the top of my head, the boxes switched to metric fittings. There are ways around this but if you want a clean, bolt in installation obtain a box before the early '80's time frame. This is a tip I posted for years which also appeared in The Riview several times...but I havnt posted it in a long time. Tom Mooney

The information you are seeking appears in the factory service bulletins. I don't have access to them at this time but will in early October. If you havnt found the info by then send me a PM. Tom

Lights dimming while a load is initiated can be excessive load...or a bad or undercharged battery. Tom Mooney

It may not be your primary issue but you might consider replacing the battery immediately. You will have the proper basis for diagnostics if the problem persists and since battery replacement is routine periodic maintenance the cost of a new battery is minimal. The battery is the heart of the electrical system and especially the cranking system...and is a component, unlike starters, alternators, etc, which should be replaced on a regular and periodic basis...especially in a lightly operated collector car. Tom Mooney

A question regarding ORIGINAL factory underhood finish was posed to me years ago and since is one of the characteristics I pay attention to when inspecting what I think is an original paint car. What I have discovered is that the overall underhood finish is black, however, the area from the front edge of the hood to the first rearward support channel is covered with body colored overspray which varies from car to car in degree. Tom Mooney

The 425 engines in the other full size models were also red in '66 Tom

The complete VIN is not stamped into the engine block, the model number is not in the stamping. Through other circumstances the origin of the block can be narrowed down however. For instance, in '65, in Flint, the Riviera and Wildcat used a 900,000 serial number format. If the stamped serial number on the engine in question is in the 900,000 series it would have originally been installed in a Riviera or Wildcat...but NOT an Electra. Tom

If you go to their homepage and scroll towards the bottom there is an icon to open their Riviera catalog. This is what I use instead of their new search function and never have an issue finding parts Tom Mooney

I have seen these kits installed on '60's cars. They also include replacement distributor weights and springs to change ignition timing to reduce emissions...that's the reason for the timing reference on the sticker. Tom Mooney

Just curious...did the new compressor come prefilled with oil? Did you add oil to replace the oil flushed from the evaporator and condensor? Generally the low side pressure and hence temp will fluctuate slightly as the expansion valve opens and closes, assuming the compressor is constantly running and high side pressure is consistent. That is normal operation; although I wouldn't expect it to fluctuate that much. That ambient temp is not loading the refrigerant system much so maybe check pressures again when the ambient temp is higher and your low side readings may be more consistent. Zero or low single digit vacuum level at the STV is normal if the controls are set at max cooling. Generally I take temp readings at the outlet closest to the evaporator core for more accurate readings regarding evap temp. In a first gen Riv that would be the passenger side outlet. Tom Mooney

John, I have a restored set of '63 4 notes which I planned to list this Fall. Send me a PM if interested. Tom

Judging by the information you volunteered in your posts, you should take your car to a qualified mechanic with the proper equipment and tools and have them substitute R134 for the original R12. Converting the refrigerant can be done by using standard evacuating/charging procedures. If your system is in tact and in servicable condition, You do not need to change hoses, o rings, flush out the mineral based R12 oil, etc, to get the system operating and evaluate its performance. Do be sure the tech adds the appropriate volume of R134 compatible oil to the system and I would also suggest the addition of dye for any future troubleshooting for leaks. Refrigerant oil is available with the dye already added, which is what I use, or the dye can be added independently. Keep in mind ANY AC system which has been idle for an extended period of time will more than likely have issues which will become apparent when putting it back into service, so it may take more than one attempt to get things "right"....but that fact is not necessarily dependent on refrigerant type. The last thing you should consider if your system is in tact, is ripping out the AC system which was engineered for your car and replacing it with a universal kit. There is no ultimate cost advantage after adding up the initial cost of the universal kit and the cost of labor for installation... and to be honest, every universal system installation I have inspected, especially by weekend warriors, looks like a hack job compared to the factory system. Tom Mooney

Only the faces of the drums were painted black and my understanding is, according to the factory assembly manuals, only with the chrome wheel option. Tom Mooney

www.motortrend.com/features/rare-1970-buick-455-stage-1-drowns-and-needs-45-year-rescue/ Tom

Buick was painting the face of the drums in '64. There is a period Motor Trend article featuring the '64 Wildcat which pictures the front wheel removed to display the finned aluminum brake drum which is painted black. Tom

Yes, this is something no one ever mentions when cutting the firewall to get to the heater core. Those are wire retainers that secure the core in the heater box. You will need to cut those out to remove the core. When installing the new core most just stuff something around the core to jam it into the heater box to retain the core...not my style. Tom Mooney

The original color of the lug pockets was chosen to simulate a magnesium wheel, as in "mag" wheel. I was told this in conversation with an engineer who enjoyed a long career at MotorWheel who has recently passed away. He had a well established connection with Buick and ordered a '70 Skylark GS Stage 1 in a special color. When the factory reviewed the chosen color they denied the order claiming quality control could not be guaranteed. So he chose a Cadillac color and the order was accepted. When he took delivery of the car the paint quality was terrible. The car was completely restored before his passing and can be found in numerous publications. He designed and built custom width wheels for the car at MotorWheel. When the chrome wheels were factory installed at Buick the face of the brake drum was painted black. Sometimes, on a well kept low mileage car from a dry area the remnants of the black are still visible Tom Mooney

Be careful Tim, Napa has a big "family" Anonymous

If the old fan clutch was indeed "weak" I would expect to observe a difference in operation. Tom

The lever trips the master switch. If the lever is all the way to the left the master switch should be open and not sending voltage to the manual switch. When you move the lever from left to right the master switch should close and send voltage to the manual switch. If the manual switch is on "low" you should get the low blower speed. When you move the lever you should hear an audible click when the master switch cycles. When you look at the control head and operate the lever you will see what is involved with actuating the master switch. Tom

Yes, the master switch is mounted in the control unit which houses the AC and heater switches. If you look closely at the AC fan control you will notice the lowest fan setting is labeled "low"...not "off". The high blower relay is located on the passenger inside fender well. The vacuum system is not involved in the blower electrical circuit. Tom Mooney