1965rivgs

TTT...I still have one left. Tom

TTT...still have some moldings in varying condition. Please keep in mind there are no perfect moldings in the bunch. Thanks, Tom

TTT... Thanks, Tom

Could be something that has become available of which I am not aware?? Tom

Keep in mind, as I previously stated, the rockers on this X frame car are not like single boxed rockers on a perimeter frame car. The rockers on a `65 Riv are structural and double boxed for strength with a heavy gauge wall between the "boxes". Any repair rockers you find in the aftermarket are just the outside rocker skins which originally were galvanized and hold up better than the rest of the rocker structure. That is why so many people end up with a first gen Riv that is much more in need than anticipated, because the rocker structure deteriorates from the inside out with the outside rocker skin the last to show the extent of deterioration. I have seen first gen Rivs that are so rotted the windshield cracks from the stress of the body dropping/folding around the frame due to rust and the outside galvanized rocker skin still looking like it only needs minor patching. If you do decide to tackle the restoration best of luck! Tom Mooney

If the balancer bolt came loose easily make sure to check the key and keyway in the balancer for wear. Tom Mooney

I`ve seen enough to say the car is consistently soft structurally and considering what it costs to bring a car back from this point you might be better off looking for another candidate. Problem with this type of rust (yes, there are different "types"), the more you pick away at it the more will disappear until you are left with 50% of what you are seeing. Aside from the body mount cups, the trunk floor is just sheetmetal but when the rust gets into the inner and outer rockers and the floor braces there is no way to properly structurally repair it without ALOT of time and material. The issue to keep in mind regarding an X frame car is that the rockers are a structural part of the body and also provide a margin of safety for side impact protection. If the rockers, which are double walled, are soft, they will just crumble in a side impact type accident...so once a Riv is rusty it isnt a good choice for even a relatively safe but rusty beater. I wrecked one once when I was a kid, it was a rusty beater, and the car folded in half. Tom Mooney

My recommendation is that, assuming you are still on the fence regarding restoring the car, leave it whole and evaluate the car from underneath; it is not necessary to strip the car to evaluate whether it is a suitable candidate for restoration or a parts car. After you strip the car, and if you attempt to sell it whole, or even as a parts car, the first question which will occur to a potential buyer is "what's missing and how am I going to put it back together if someone else took it apart?" Both legitimate question. Why invest time and labor which could be invested in another car and why give a potential buyer for this car more bargaining leverage? Just another opinion, good luck! Tom Mooney

Based on the few undercarriage pics you have posted I would expect structural rust in the inside rocker panels. Because this is an "X" frame car that aspect could determine whether the car is a suitable candidate for restoration. Take and post some pics of the inside rockers/floor braces. Even if you determine the car is not restorable, and If you suspect that the engine is indeed rebuilt, and if the car is reasonably complete, you don't have much to lose in getting the engine installed and running, even if you fuel it from a temporary fuel container. I see you already have an engine lift. If the engine is sound and you can demonstrate same, this could double the car's value, even as a parts car. Where are you located? Maybe a local member with experience could help with advice upon an on site inspection? Tom Mooney

Steve, How is the hood secured to the tool? Are there angle clamps that are not visible in your pic?

Hi Tim, Answer is the same.... depends on your specific circumstances, ie, is the hood already removed from the car? Do you have a trans jack in order to safely install the trans independent of the engine? (Or are you personally willing to risk installation of the trans with just a floor jack and a 2X4? Keep in mind you have 10 fingers so if the trans falls off the floor jack and cuts a couple off there are more, just try to make sure it`s not a thumb.) Do you have a heavy duty lift which is capable of safely handling the weight of both the engine and trans? Will the floor in your shop make it difficult or easy to maneuver the lift with both the weight of the engine and trans suspended? Is your lifting fixture capable of changing angles through the installation process if installing as a unit? The variables are MANY, no matter which method or order, and specific to your situation. Look forward in the process keeping in mind what your circumstances and available tools/equipment are at your disposal, and your skill set, and decide which method is best for YOU. Personally, what I GENERALLY do, is remove the valve covers, rocker assemblies and possibly the intake to grab the engine with the lift as close to the valley pan as possible, minimizing the distance between the boom and engine. Generally, that enables me to have enough clearance for the boom when lifting the engine to do the installation without bothering with the hood, but it will be tight so care is required... and through trial and error over decades of experience I have MANY options at hand for lifting in my arsenal so I can grab the engine tight and well balanced...but I try to keep it simple! Generally, for removal, I place a jack under the trans and lift the front of the trans as I lift the engine until the front of the trans touches the trans tunnel and then separate the trans from engine in that position, lift out the engine after moving it forward slightly and then go after the trans by moving it forward away from the crossmember and uncouple from the d-shaft yoke. For installation I generally install the trans first leaving the trans jack in place, the rear mount locks the trans into the desired forward/rearward position, so when I "drop" the engine most of the manipulation of components occurs from a standing position beside the car instead of from a prone position on a creeper, or both, which requires on and off the creeper; I`m old enough so that hurts now. In this way I can manipulate the engine with the lift and manipulate the trans with the handle of the trans jack, both from a standing position beside the car, as the trans only needs to go right or left and the front angle of the trans can be adjusted up or down to mate with the engine with the trans jack. Having stated all of the above, there is no "right" or "wrong" way or order to do it, it`s all dictated by your circumstances and preferences....and truth be told, I`m likely to mix things up depending on my mood and how uncomfortable I am given the specific circumstances or time constraints. It`s one of those situations where a certain minimum degree of forethought is necessary to keep from doing something stupid or putting yourself in a trick bag, but in the end, overthinking things is time better spent putting hands on and moving toward your goal....get that monkey off the couch and put him to work. Tom

There`s really no definitive answer, depends most on the circumstances and the mechanic...if you have overhead room, a lift with good range, and have the capability to remove the hood (a helper), installing as a unit minimizes time spent under the car...but if one is comfortable working from a creeper under the car, has a good selection of tools and common sense to use prybars and leverage or working solo, installing the engine and trans independently works too. It`s really about having the foresight to imagine the working circumstances relative to both methods and choosing which of those circumstances is best suited to the available tools and skill set. I find it a PITA to work with the engine and trans as a unit due to weight and manipulating angles so I generally install each component independently. Tom

Early car including, among other early car features, painted, not chromed, interior A pillar moldings. Tom Moonry

The problem is most likely the license plate door return spring. Tom

Do a search for a thread started by Pat Curran named "slot cars" for more info Tom Mooney

Mike, Your tan car also has the 2nd design contacts with the slot and guide pin...maybe the blue car is an improvement on the 2nd design? Tom

Aurora slot car...but I don't recall that being an original color? We had one of the earliest sets when I was a young boy. The contact bars on the early cars were unattached at the front and would bend when the car was mishandled or left the track. The contact bars in the pic are the later design which are indexed at the front with a slot/guide feature. Tom Mooney

I asked if I could just put a set of spark plugs in it and tried to convince them that it would be less work than pushing it but they said "no". Tom

Depending on whether you want a factory appearance or not you could simply find a breather with a nipple which installs where your present breather is and run a short hose from the breather nipple back into the air cleaner body or snorkel. Any blowby that escapes the breather will be consumed back into the engine's incoming air stream. Tom

There are two threads running which address John's issue. If you read the other you will see the answer to your question is yes, for various reasons. Tom

Kev, That variation in RPM is totally acceptable. I would be more than satisfied with that result even after a fresh tuneup. Tom

Hi Kevin, A slight flicker is fine...as long as it is not accompanied by a noticeable engine miss. Your mileage is up around 100K, correct? If there is any noise or noticeable vibration probably a good idea to keep in mind piston failure in a Nailhead is not unusual around 100K...but I suspect your car has a good history and has been taken care of well. Tom

If you have an exhaust leak or any blow by escaping the open breather under the hood the fumes will enter the cab. Tom

Water is an expected by product of combustion. I'm not a chemist but I believe the by product increases with a richer condition. Tom Mooney

Lean misfire...it produces a rich exhaust. Tom