1965rivgs

I'm a retired tech and I have had the same tool for decades and it has come in handy very often....easy to rationalize the cost if using it to make a living! Tom Mooney

As the title states, this NOS Guidematic kit, in the original box, is listed in the Buick Accessory Manuals as correct for `68 through `74 models. There is nothing missing from the kit and it is ready to install. I have installation templates and instructions in addition to those pictured that cover `68 through`73 Rivieras, full size and Skylark models. $300 plus shipping.... If interested, please send a PM Thanks, Tom

Morning Bill, I was sure I opened a discussion in the past regarding the original `63 hood molding medallion because I had what I thought was/is an original prototype hood medallion. Here is the discussion: I know I had used hood moldings with what was left of the medallions and they were definitely machine threaded steel studs. I also encountered a vendor at the BCA nationals in Oklahoma who had an NOS medallion in the original clear plastic bubble package and that medallion also had a machine thread stud. Maybe Buick produced two versions? That is not a "stretch" because we know they also produced two versions of the hood molding itself. The discussion is another thread I opened here: Tom

Is yours a repro? Or do the repros just replace the original medallion utilizing the original base? Tom

Hi Bill, Did you cull the pic you posted from one of my for sale ads, it looks familiar. If so, I think the OEM medallion has a threaded post and not a solid post meant to have threads cut into it by a stamped steel nut as in the pic...or is my memory failing me? Tom

Your hub never had the roll pin canceling pin. Use the plastic barrel pictured and you should be ok. Tom Mooney

The lenses are or usually crack where the stud penetrates through the lens so caution is justified. Tom Mooney

If you jack the car up that will make the job go much smoother and help to minimize the fuel siphoning from the tank. Was the pump spring loaded by the arm while removing the bolts? If so, rotate the engine to get the drive eccentric on the low side. That will help immensely when reinstalling the pump. Tom

I was referring to the '35 through '66 blanks...thought the octagon head ignition/door blanks are no longer listed? Tom

Great summation and thanks for sharing your knowledge. In my experience, you are "spot on". It is my experience that Strattec is no longer making one of the original shaped octagonal/round key blanks...true? Thanks again, Tom Mooney

Use a test light or better yet a Volt meter at the purple wire (other side of the connector) while a helper engages the start position of the ignition switch. You should see nearly full battery voltage. If so, is it possible you had the connection apart while in the process of changing the battery and the connector was not fully seated? If not, and while your helper still engages the start position of the ignition switch, and after you have reconnected the purple/yellow connector, move the wiring harness around at the bulkhead connectors to see if that engages the starter ("wiggle test"). If not, test the circuit from the ignition switch forward until the point which you lose voltage on the starter engagement circuit. As in any electrical circuit, focus on switches and connections. Tom Mooney

Steering wheel medallion?

There is a purple/yellow two wire connector in the area of the junction block on the drivers fender well. Use a jumper wire from the hot post of the battery to the purple wire and see if the starter cranks. Be sure to put the jumper wire to the starter side of the connector. This is a test of the starter, basic cable connections and battery that shouldn't take more than a minute. Tom Mooney

The description of '65 axle identification in the chart is incorrect. The description of '63-'64 markings carries over into '65. Tom Mooney

That's called a tack strip intended to accept staples. Any convertible top supplier should have it. Tom Mooney

Cars at oldbuickparts.com is the source for those that are marketing the reproduction caps. Tom Mooney

Make sure the metal terminals in the connector at the regulator are bright metal clean with good tension....clean, bright and tight! Tom Mooney

The illustrated tool is still the tool to use. When the pointed tip of the tool contacts the clip, pivot the tool to move the clip and molding away from each other. Depending on which position of the molding being manipulated, sometimes the molding will pop off of the clip, other times a SLIGHT elevation of the molding is necessary. If you pull upward too hard the molding will kink or a bend will be created. It takes a combination of patience, finesse and force to remove the moldings without damage. If there is any sealer which has been applied between the body and moldings break the seal with a razor knife before attempting removal Tom Mooney

B10 and B11 are the correct blanks for '66. As has been stated, in '67, the number of blanks increased to increase the number of possible key combinations to repress theft. Tom Mooney

Yes, ANY leak in the system will render the system non op or very slow to respond to the controls. I ALWAYS isolate the components when troubleshooting....it's easy, just plug the vacuum lines to the components not being tested or use a vacuum pump on the component being tested...dont neglect to consider the heater control valve if you still have issues. The vacuum modulator to the STV valve is another possible vacuum leak that most folks don't consider. Tom

Bill, He has a '65 so the replacement actuator is exactly the same as the original. Your reference applies to '63 only. Tom

It would make sense to remove the blower motor itself from the housing to ultimately make removing the housing less cumbersome if necessary. So, remove the blower motor, determine if replacing the actuator is within your skill set at that point. If not, then remove the blower housing. This is typical of a repair which becomes self evident after putting tools to work. Tom

The actuator on the bottom of the case controls the outside/recirc door. The actuator on the firewall ductwork controls the heat/AC door...they are the same part. Tom Mooney

NOT parts manuals...SERVICE BULLETINS Tom

Do your homework, starting in '69 most if not all full size GM cars came with a variable ratio steering gearbox. The variable ratio box will bring down the standard first gen box from approximately 4.75 turns lock to lock to 3.25 turns...and you will get the benefit of the slowest ratio in the center position which speeds up as the box turns to left or right. At some point in time, maybe the early '80's, can't remember off the top of my head, the boxes switched to metric fittings. There are ways around this but if you want a clean, bolt in installation obtain a box before the early '80's time frame. This is a tip I posted for years which also appeared in The Riview several times...but I havnt posted it in a long time. Tom Mooney