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1965rivgs

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Everything posted by 1965rivgs

  1. Yes, POUNDS, not ohms. Communicating to the OP that the original sender as per part number is for a 60lb. gauge. There are several choices on the Napa website with good specification info. WARNING- I did not check specs to determine which sender, if any, correlates with a 60 lb. gauge https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=oil pressure sender&referer=v2 Tom Mooney
  2. Hi Ken, Interested in the small trumpet horn and the chrome air cleaner lid. Thanks, Tom
  3. Here are pics of an original '66 sender. I believe the "60" on the sender signifies it is a 0 to 60 ohm sender and the stamped part number, 6460470, is the correct part number in the Buick parts book. For what it's worth, the few times I've worked on the factory sender/gauge I've found them relatively worthless. If you want to closely watch the numerical values you'll need to go to an aftermarket gauge Tom Mooney
  4. Steve, you pictured the switch for the idiot light; the `66 uses a sender for a gauge.
  5. Hi Craig, I could type all day about the chrome wheels; best to call me with your questions. You have my number. Thanks, Tom
  6. 10 4...thanks for taking the time to supply a pic Tom
  7. Bob, my last comment was offered as an opinion and I intended that it would be regarded as one. As you know, opinions are like axxholes, everyone has one. I think your wires wheels look good, but again, what`s one man`s opinion worth? Tom Mooney
  8. Trust me, it's the wrong wheel and most importantly the wrong offset. If I understand your statement correctly, the lug nuts may have, in reality, been "tightened" but when offset is incorrect the inside edge of the rim contacts the fins of the brake drum before the center of the wheel contacts the axle. That gives the illusion the lugs are tightening when in fact the lug nuts are bending the rim. It's easy to stop tightening because as the rim distorts tightening the lug nuts requires increased effort but the rim is not properly seated against the axle. End result is the wheel may loosen up. Beware of using 895 rims on a pre '70 application and beware of anyone who us recommending same; besides, it's the most unattractive version of the Buick chrome wheel because in overall appearance it lacks depth. Tom Mooney
  9. Craig, your chrome wheel is a '71 and up wheel. Tom Mooney
  10. It was...see my post above. Since yours is NOS can you get a pic looking straight into the tube? My experience with troubleshooting the hot air choke system is that there should be an insert that looks like a twisted dipstick. Tom Mooney
  11. Barney, there was an industry size designation change between `64 and `65. You are correct that the standard size tire in `63-`64 was the 7.10 but the oversize tire option was a 7.60. The `64 7.60 is the equivalent of the `65 8.45. The charts seem to often contradict each other but my guesstimate would be a 7.10 is comparable to a 215 and the 8.45 is somewhere between a 215 and 225; probably closer to a 225 Tom Mooney
  12. Gene, As has been mentioned in our previous communications I have excellent cores for rechroming which suit your needs, ie, '64 Wildcat cores. The wheels are already boxed and ready to ship. However, I do not have "like new" original examples. As you may recall, in our initial conversation, I suggesting rechroming excellent cores to achieve your stated goal. Thanks, Tom
  13. I have not noticed shims at the firewall mounts but I've only actually replaced them several times...so it could have been done and I simply wasn't looking for it and didn't notice; they are in an area that's not typically visible. Tom Mooney
  14. The twisted insert in the tube swirls the air flowing through it, slowing it down and maximizing the heat transfer. The complete tube inserts were available from Buick and I occasionally see them sold as an NOS part on Ebay. I wouldn't want to tackle changing one though. Tom Mooney
  15. They all weren't...very typical to find original paint cars with mismatched paint on the front clips. Most who have not been around will claim "can't be original, paint on the front clip doesn't match" but that typically doesn't concern me when inspecting an original car... unless I find evidence of a front end collision. Tom Mooney
  16. It's not a spiral tube but is a tube with what can best be described as a twisted dip stick which is inserted in the tube Tom Mooney
  17. You need more heat...ideally oxy/acet...try MAP gas, a low cost alternative, which you should be able to use with your current propane head. If the top of the studs are protruding above the manifold flange, and are rusty and corroded, try to clean those up as much as possible before you back out the studs. Or, if you can get access to one or both of the studs from above, drill a hole into the stud from the top so it can collapse. Otherwise, if you loosen the stud and try to turn out the corroded upper part of the stud through the threaded hole in the manifold, it will snap the manifold flange because the stud wants to force the hole larger. Ask me how I know! Tom Mooney
  18. The defrost vent is also in the center on '64-'65 cars Tom Mooney
  19. In `64 Buick described the chrome wheel option as "Formula Five" wheels with the "Five" depicted as a roman numeral. After `64 Buick simply described the optional wheels as "chrome wheels". Tom mooney
  20. Gene, I dont have any updates/change in status for you, no new info to share, but I will respond anyway. Tom
  21. Ditto relative to the `63 and `64 harness references...use a `64 harness in a `64 Tom Mooney.
  22. I`m not sure either...but I do know that the other big cars have a dedicated core support under which the mounts/shims are placed. The Riv is a little different because the mounts are placed under the inside fender wells and what would normally look like a core support is just a tie bar between the left and right sides. Dont know if that would make a difference in assembly technique.... I would assume it really doesnt make much difference, except to GM. Tom Mooney
  23. Exactly my thoughts many years ago when I started working on GM cars in general, ie, how were the cars originally assembled? I imagine a measuring fixture was used at Fisher at the front top edge of the doors as a basic guideline, although aligning the doors to the rockers and quarters should certainly place the top of the doors very close to where they should be relative to the cowl assuming the body is assembled / welded within specs. I would assume both front fenders were joined to the inner fenders and the tie bar (core support) through use of a jig and put in place as an assembly, but it has been decades since I researched the process in detail. There is a paper presented by Buick engineering to the SAE which has been recently featured in the Riview that details the assembly process specific to the Riviera model complete with mention of the jigs applied to approximate dimensions in specific areas. There are numerals written on the underside of the hood which can be seen on original cars which appear to be dimensions or shimming specs? There are usually two numerals presented in the format "5/6" which I assume are dimensions or shimming dimensions written by the assembly line folks while adjusting up the front clip. I've always been entertained by the variance in dimensions found in the core support shims on original cars. I've always payed specific attention to this area after encountering my first bent frame on a Riviera. The factory shims were supplied in several dimensions to be stacked to achieve front clip alignment. Sometimes they are stacked rather high and sometimes there is very little shimming; surely a sign of additive variance from ideal component specs. How cool would it be to go back in time and watch a first gen car be assembled starting at Fisher Body? Tom Mooney
  24. Dan, Your procedure is correct. The first step is to align the door frame to the rocker panel and quarter panel. You might want to add some weight to the door frames while making adjustments so as to simulate the weight of the door skin upon complete assembly. Don't count on any alignment adjustment by repositioning the door skin itself. Once all the T bolts are inserted into the holes in the door frame there is little movement. Tom Mooney
  25. John, I dont think the check valve on the pictured Bendix unit is correct. Tom Mooney
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