37_Roadmaster_C

I will Try to remember to look this weekend. I have a complete new harness set from YNZ for the 37 Roadmaster Phaeton that will be installed soon. My car has the same brake switch as yours.

I think 50JETBACK is right. If I remember right, it was quite an issue to get info on my 37 320 starter. The issue was that buick changed the ring gear on the flywheel and that changes the starter mating gear. I think the change was in 39. Others may have more or better info. Robin

Dave, The problem you describe is very basic. I am not familiar with your radio specificly, however, I beleve the power input wire goes directly to the power switch. If there is a short to chassis then it has to be either the wire its self or the switch. As for another technician, there will be lots of them in the Las Vegas area. Check for old time radio and tv repair shops. Check with local schools, especially high schools and colleges. Another good resource is the local amature radio (ham) club. Last try would be a local radio station and ask to talk to the station engineer. The term engineer in this case is the person who keeps the station equipment repaired and on the air. With all the electronic equipment in Vegas, there is someone :). Robin

This is a MUST DO!!! The buffer cap should be replaced each time the vibrator is replaced. It is not really possible to test it reliably, so just replace it. If bad or failing, your new vibrator wont last long enough to enjoy one cruse night. Robin

You can use the rods out of the spare engine you mentioned which has insert bearings or you can have the 47 rods machined for inserts. I had the rods for my 37 Roadmaster machined by Egge and they supplied the inserts. The end result was a set of rods and bearings that fit and gauged perfectly without shims as expected. I do not remember the price but felt it was the best option for what I was trying to do. Robin

The coil of fine wire is simply a magnet coil. The wire is most likely varnish insulated magnet wire. The wire is common to motor rewind shops, however the gauge of the wire is critical and very fine gauge wire is not common in rewind shops. The number of turns is the most critical item as the dimensions of the coil will determine the length required for the number of turns and therefore the resistance. The coil is critical in all specifications: number of turns, gauge of wire, coil dimensions and shape and the location and attachment to the spring pointer. I do not want to be a spoil sport, but the chance of someone not familiar with the construction and forming methods used in these meters is unlikely to be sucessful with this type of repair. I know how it was done and I would never attempt the repair. As for how to get it repaired, I would try to contact people who advertise repair of old gauges and see if any of them can recomend someone to do the repairs. I do not know of anybody to point you towards. Sorry. You might try to ask on one of the antique radio/Tv forums on the web. Also you could try amature radio forums or possibly a local ham radio club for pointers. One caution.... If you attempt to repair be very careful and diligent about detailed documentation of what you have. Once disassembled and unwound the coil details will be lost. Remember, a meter of this type is a magnetic device and coils form the electromagnetic portion of the movement. Caution and care is most important. Good Luck and let us know how it turns out. Robin

I do not know for sure what impedance your radio output is, but it would not be suprising if it were 4 ohms. Higher impedance systems are much more common in newer (70's+) audio systems. A way to get an idea is to measure the resistance of the speaker with a digital multimeter. While the resistance reading is not the same as the impedance rating the GENERAL outcome is that the meter measurement is lower than the rating but normally only by 20-30%. This is not a guarnteed measurment, just my expierence after 35+ years in industry. If you measure your speaker and it measures between 2-4 ohms I would call it a 4 ohm speaker, if higher than 4 but less than 8 then 8 ohm etc... The measurement must be made with the speaker disconected from the radio. Robin

John, Unfortunately there is no period correct resistor for this application as they never had a resistor. If you want it to look beter use a Mopar balast resistor and bracket and mount in a place where it looks the least wrong. Robin

I just ordered a complete harness for my 37 Buick Phaeton from the other Califorinia supplier. I am very glad now that I did. I hope that others forward the just of this thread to the RI company. Dust on a mis manufactured order disqualifies return credit givemeabreak. This is what I would call the begenning of the end for a once highly rated supplier. I will never recomend them to my friends without first relating this event..... R

My 60 Electra has color matching front lap seat belts. They are correct for the year, but I do not know if they were factory options or dealer options. My grandfather was very safety concious and had the seat belts installed before he would even pick up the car from the dealer. I have not actually investigated the install, but from the top they sure look factory. Robin

Great to hear. Enjoy the car while the weather stays warm. R

Just a couple of thoughts... Rod has clearly said that the problem exists at a certain RPM of the motor when the car is driving, stoped, in gear or out of gear. Also when the clutch is depressed or not. Now my point is that this CLEARLY eliminates the transmission, drive line (torque tube), rear end and all chassis parts except possibly the motor mounts. So with this in mind the next logical step is to eliminate engine accessories. IE: Water pump/fan and generator. With a cold engine remove the fan belt and start her up. Rev her up to the vibration speed and see if she still vibrates ( I suspect the vibration will still be there). If the vibration is still there then the most likely area is the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate as mentioned above. Keep the run time short without the water pump and you will be ok. If really concerned disconect the radiator hoses and feed a garden hose into the lower radiator hose and let the water flow freely. Keep us posted. Robin

They do not list them specificly but you might want to give Bobs Automobilia or Kanter Auto Products a call. I got the new ones for my 37 320 from Egge and they were a perfect fit so well worth the price. Just my $.02... Robin

Not to argue but.... First to answer the question. Yes you can design a hybrid 6/12 volt system. Now, Matt is absolutely right. My dads / my 37 Buick 320 is a stock 6 volt system. It was used as a daily driver when my dad was in college until 1954. In central Washington state the winters can be quite severe and dad swears that the car always started right up hot or cold. His bigest complaint was the cost of antifreeze on a student budget. We are in the final stages of a complete restoration right now and the car will remain 6 volt. Also as Matt mentioned, a friend owns a 1913 Studebaker and I can always get it started within 3 up pulls on the crank summer or winter... Robin

You really need to check out ALL of the auto start system. There is more to it than just the carb switch. There are also lockout and safety switches to keep the starter from engaging when the engine is running or under a heavy acceleration condition. Normally the push button start modification was done because of other problems. Just a thought.... Robin

Give Rhode Island wiring or YNZ Parts a call. Both seem to be very good. YNZ is in California. R

If the engine is origional to the car you have a Century. The 6 as the first digit of the engine number identifies the engine as being origionally installed in a series 60 car. Series 60 = Century. Robin

The ring gear can be expanded and flipped as stated above. Just heat evenly all around and tap off. Flip, heat and tap back on. It does take a lot of heat and patients. Also, make SURE the surfaces are clean and that the ring gear is fully seated on the flywheel, if not it will vibrate and eventually work its way off. Robin

Hi All, We are getting close to the finish line with the 37 Roadmaster Phaeton restoration. The shop doing the interior is moving forward with great care and they have a question. The question is... Are the convertable tops on 37 and 38 Roadmaster 80C phaetons the same? My shop has found a company that has patterns for the 38 but not the 37 and was wanting to know it they were the same. If anyone has a definative answer it would be appreciated. If anyone has a parts book that covers both years it might help to compair the convertable top parts between both years. Thanks in advance for any help. Robin

I have several classic / antique cars here in Washington. I also do a lot of work for local law enforcement departments. With this in mind I asked about the 'pleasure driving' exception and was told the following by two county sheriffs (not deputys, the men themselves).... " As long as you don't use it for work or drive it every day we don't care". After having a laugh about the comment the sheriff explained that it would be almost impossible to prove a violation in court unless it was being used for an obvious business activity or it could be documented that it was my only vehicle, IE: daily driver. As for the RCW and WAC (revised code of Washington or Washington administrative code) there is NO milage limit, only a very loose defination of use. The reason for any legal defination is that the classic / antique / horseless carrage plates are life long registrations. In other words: Pay once and drive forever. The state really wants to charge everyone for using the road.... I know, I just paid $101.00 for my 97 Sonoma pickup for another year..... Robin Also, I will admit that a couple of my rigs have collector plates just to make the city police happy. They have a big problem with unlicensed vehicles being parked in open view. They consider it storing junk vehicles and require you to either cover or garage them and I just don't have the patients for city BS, so I licence them as collectors and then the city police cannot give me any flack :). Also, where are you in Washington? I am in Wenatchee. R

Cahartley has it exactly right. Any 'slop' in the gears will greatly reduce pump effency to the point of non-operation. As the oil warms up it thins and the problem is worse. On your top photo of the bottom plate the wear marks are obvious and in my opinion the plate should be faced smooth. Another thing I think I see is a slight ovaling of the lower shaft guide hole. If this is the case the clearance between the gears may be excessive and/or the main housing may be warn from the gear riding on the lower side. Either of these things is a big problem and needs attention. Robin

I agree with the above comments and advise,,, Just fix the problem. If you have a big enough leak in the system to need a larger resivoir then you have a MUCH bigger problem than the amount of reserve fluid available. R

I am not familiar with the wiring on your specific year of Buick, however... In most systems of the 50's the ammeter is a series meter. This means that the battery connects to one post and ther rest of the system to the other post. A dead giveaway to this system is that BOTH wires to the ammeter will be a large size. To check this system measure the voltage from both posts to ground. They should both read batrtery voltage. If one post reads battery and the other is 0 or very low then the meter is bad. A simple short term solution is to connect both wires to the same post. The car and all eolectrical systems will work, you will just have no ammeter. Hope this helps. Robin I just checked a 1958 wiring diagram and the above is correct for your car. R

Willie, check out this link, they gave individual gaskets. No affiliation just the first google hit... http://www.carburetor-parts.com/WCFB-Gaskets_c_697.html R

My plan exactly R