JFranklin

Maybe a GM truck.

brown was 1935 and I think the black face was 1936. used in the glove box door.

Buy a 6 Volt coil, a 12 volt coil has a resister built in. The coil should say 6 VOLT.

Find a (GOOD) friend that owns a dealership or garage. They know the hoops to get new registration through a sale or lien process.

Both scans would be very welcome to see, thank you.

Touch up after torquing is the easiest. I sometimes use motor oil or gear lube between the nut and tool as a cushion if I don't want to do any touch up. Usually I just don't care, it's just a car after all.

Almost looks like what is on my '36 Chevrolet, but many used something similar.

I had an early Mustang that had a balance problem. I spent a lot of time and money trying to locate why. Tires and wheels were checked for true and balance. The driveline was rebuilt, and balanced twice. We even replaced the flex plate in the transmission and still the problem persisted. I finally found a mechanic that resorted to using a hose clamp and a bolt on the driveshaft, moving it a small amount around between test drives. He got rid of all the vibration. He said it was coming from somewhere besides the driveshaft. His fix was there when I finally sold the car. I did tell the new owner that although it looked funky, not to mess with what looked like a farmers fix! True story and I still can't figure where the vibration originated from.

In the post he said he disengaged the engine from the equation.

Did you actually talk to someone at Rootleib?

I'm not sure what Essex calls for but 1/8" toe in seems excessive. My Ford is 1/32".

Well, you have proven it isn't from the engine. Was the driveshaft built by a driveline specialist? If you feel it in the steering, look at tire/wheel balance and trueness.

My Model A got a new starter bendix spring after needing a push start at the corner market.

Have you tried a NAPA store? It looks like 1/2 of a farruled or flared fitting for the incoming gas line.

I doubt there is any logical reason to not use correct thermostats as their job is to bring the engine to running temperature as quickly as possible. If they are causing overheating the cooling system has a fault or the thermostat itself is not functioning. If the reason is cost, it is more costly to not use them.

/A black asphaltum wash/paint was used in many wood framed bodies of different makes.

I use AlumaSeal, it won't clog and works in my non pressure radiators.

I vote blackwall tires, they look best and are easy to care for.

I think the fixture is a tool to replicate the disk so it can be done on a bench. If you are careful you may be able to do it on the car. If you haven't seen this it might help.

Were did all the sense of adventure go? Of course I think I wouldn't want to crank a car that I didn't know, but if done properly there should not be anything to worry about.

Henry, check out this Purilator oil filter project on an SG-2. Page 2, Post of July 27, 2008. I was hoping to find someone to do the same with mine. Mine is SG-2 as the one in the thread. I could offer it up if you were planning production and I would see a hefty discount off wholesale.

There is what is known as implied warrantee. It is what protects you from a scam. If the rebuilder was negligent he will most likely want a chance to make things right. I don't think you should tear things down until he has a chance.

Hwellens, Nice brochure, can you show the other side?

I have a used SG-1, what are your plans?

Are you looking for new or used?