Larry Schramm

I was going through some old pictures and ran across my picture of the front bumper. I believe that it was in Northern Arizona.

Same, just plant talk. I spent years in the sparkplug area. Everything from mold & grind, kiln, shell & wire, print & glaze, and final assembly.

In my opinion and many others, an electric fuel pump is a solution looking for a problem. I would go with the original equipment pump,....unless there is vapor lock issue in hot weather then I would consider putting one at the tank for use only when vapor lock would be occurring to purge the line of air and then turn it off.

What is the question?

No, not the Cadillac Ranch. Somewhere like out in northern New Mexico or Arizona would be my guess. Cadillac ranch is a graffiti filled "art work" about 100 yards south of Route 66 / I-40 just west of Amarillo, Texas. Been there, done that. https://www.roadsideamerica.com/story/2220

Pick one. https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=1995+silverado+chmsl&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

One thing that I learned years ago was aftermarket anything. That includes radios. I had a vehicle that if I did not drive it every day the battery would go dead. I checked the parasitic drain from the radio and found that it was HUGE. Poor design to keep the radio memory and clock alive. Changed out the radio and never had another problem.

The biggest issue will be the pressure at the needle valve/float in the carb. A modern electric pump might overpower the needle & seat and flood the car. Just a thought.

Looks like a stop showing where the old Route 66 used to be?

Thanks Pete for the report. Was the gray touring car for sale?

Luke, Thanks for arranging the gathering. Could you post the names in the picture other than you in the center.

Correct. When I worked for AC Sparkplug the plug on the right would be like an AC 45S which meant it had a skirted bottom of the plug. That is the unthreaded area below the threads. That gives the plug a little longer reach. If it was an AC 45, it would look the same except with out the unthreaded area. The 4 designates the plug thread size and the 5 the HEAT RANGE. In your application you could probably use the same plug with or without the skirt, but it is best to use the correct plug. Heat range would change on engine condition. If using a bunch of oil, use a hotter plug. In the AC world that would be a 46 plug.

6.55 volts is basically battery voltage and the generator is not charging. A suggestion might be to take the generator to a generator repair shop and have them check it out for you. They should be able to inspect it and probably load the generator to see what it is capable. I recently took an electric motor (a generator in reverse) to the repair shop and the guy looked at it and told me almost immediately that the wiring looked good and probably needed just a good cleaning and maybe a bearing or two. His inspection and evaluation was worth what I am paying him for his expertise.

Any other questions?

A general rule of thumb used to be was $1,000/hole. I am sure it is more now. Again, If you are just going to do rings & hone the cylinders, grind & surface the head a lot cheaper. Redoing babbit bearing could easily run $125-$175 or more / rod/ main. You can do the math.

Read what is on the can. I stand by my comments. PS: I taught at the GM training center for a couple years teaching GM dealer technicians how to repair cars and mixing refrigerant is a no-no. Also, I am a 50 year ASE certified master technician. Retired out of GM product Engineering, but hey what do I know.

I believe that the information that you are showing is for 1980 and before. At least in the US the car manufacturers were required to go to a 17 place VIN#. As shown in my card, the first number in the VIN# for 1981 and forward is for country of origin. 1=US, 2=Canada, 3-Mexico, W=Germany, J=Japan, and I do not remember the others. Second digit is manufacturer. G=GM, F= Ford, and so on. Third digit is for the brand. In the GM world, 4=Buick, and so on. If my memory is correct, the reason for the 17 digit number is to include among other things the type of passenger restraint system in the vehicle.

You can use this tool to also push the rim out after you have the tire & tube on the rim. Just crank the opposite direction.

Thank you very much for the information. My case is more difficult. The center of my disc is broken and I need another disc. I don't think it's a good idea to weld the splines to the rest of the disc. Greetings

Let's start with the basics. Maxi-fridge is not R-134A. Read some of the information on that stuff. Read CAREFULLY what the chemicals are in the can. Is it propane? Propane will work as a refrigerant, but if you have a leak in the evaporator core with propane, What are you driving around in? Or even the engine compartment. https://autoacforum.com/messageview.cfm?catid=2&threadid=13134 Best thing to do at this point is to get your vacuum pump and suck the system dry. You will need to evacuate the system for at least 30 minutes. You should have at the end of that time about 29 inches of vacuum. Turn everything off and leave the vacuum pump connected and check the vacuum after an hour or two. It would good to see if the system holds the 29 inches of vacuum. You could leave it over night and if it stays the same, you should be good to go. If it loses vacuum, you will need to find the leak. If it does hold vacuum, then the system is ready to be recharged. DO NOT use any sealer in the system!! Some people swear by it, but reread the link above as to why not. Only us R 134-A. If the system says to put 4 pounds of refrigerant into the system, put it in on the low side of the system. Look around the engine compartment for a sticker that might say how much refrigerant to put in the system. It might on the evaporator case. Remember the old "I saw it on the internet and it must be true", not always. You do not know if someone is talking about an aftermarket system or a split system. Look a the gauges for the pressures. The pressures will tell you if you have the correct amount of refrigerant The pressures should have a difference. Look up the different pressures for a R134A system. They are slightly different than a R12 system. The pictures below look like you either have a bad compressor or are low on coolant. Be sure to look at the chemicals in the artic-frig. Questions that you asked, Does the engine needs to be all warmed up? No, As soon as the system is turned on and the compressor is working you should shortly feel cool air. Does the system needs more refrigerant? Book says it needs 4 lbs, internet says the system needs 8 lbs. See above Also need to figure out why the wire the compressor doesn't work from the knob the temperature control (we had to connect it straight to the battery for the test). If the a/c does not turn on with the switch, then you have a bad switch, or wiring, or connections, or control head. "BUT - the ventilation doesn't blow any ice cold air so far..." This one depends on if the system is vacuum operated or electrically operated with the mode door servos under the dash. Do you feel any cold air coming out anywhere inside the car? If so it could also be a stuck mode door, bad mode actuator, or vacuum/wire. Hope this helps. Just remember ALWAYS USE SAFETY GLASSES AND GLOVES WHEN WORKING WITH REFRIGERANT. You would not like to get hurt by an accidental refrigerant release.

In my world, horse hair was the original stuffing.