Larry Schramm

Says vintage Hupmobile screen covers, not Buick

That is the same as I have, an I-Pass. No annual fee and have driven it from Chicago to Maine, to NC and no issues.

That green Buick truck is our truck. We have had a lot of fun with it including touring with it. I think it is the only one that is regularly taken out and driven and seen in public. We have worn out one set of tires on it so far. I need to fix a driveline noise and then it will be on to tackle another set of tires. Best trophy is a set of worn out tires.

My first thought being plain is for a truck.

The 117 number seems to be a more reasonable number, but here is another article that says that there were 800 made. https://www.supercars.net/blog/1910-oldsmobile-limited/ When the GM Heritage Center opens back up after the move, they would be able to help with the exact number, or maybe Steve Moskowitz.

Not on that old of vehicle, but I have taken the seats out and got a bucket of Tide and scrubbed the seats with a soft brush then used the garden hose to rinse all of the soap off the seats, from the top side only. Let them sit out on the patio for several days in the summer until they were dry. Depending on the age of the cloth, might want to check a hidden area before scrubbing the whole cushion.

I would suggest that you either take out the sun pass or the EZ pass when in Fla. You do not want to be charged twice. Which one is easier to remove and put in foil. Just my thought. My experience is when towing the trailer the toll station will detect the trailer and the number of axles when driving through.

Take a second look at the differential and try to find the leak.

117 were made and it is thought that only 13 are remaining.. https://www.ultimatecarpage.com/car/2149/Oldsmobile-Limited-Touring.html

The are easily $1Mil cars if it is the car that I am thinking about. The GM Heritage Center has one and it is impressive. Do I remember seeing one at the AACA Headquarters some time ago? History here. https://www.ultimatecarpage.com/car/2149/Oldsmobile-Limited-Touring.html

For the consumer, it is called "the Walmart effect".

If you look at a vehicle, next statement should be "show me a clean title"

I would argue that the reasons that a most of the car companies went out of business after the war was because of the price war between GM & Ford. The smaller manufacturers could not compete on price because they did not have the economies of scale GM, Ford, and Chrysler had PLUS those three were vertically integrated manufacturers, not assemblers. They could better control their costs and subsequently prices. Example on economies of scale. Say it takes $1mil to build a die to make a fender. Make one fender and the tooling cost for that fender is $1mil. Make 2 fenders and the tooling cost is $500K/fender. Make 500,000 fenders and the tooling cost drops to $2/fender. Material is generally a fixed cost.+-. Think about the millions of Tri-5 cars GM made in the mid to late 50's. Their tooling costs would have been in the pennies/part. Multiply that example by the thousands of parts on a vehicle and you can see where a manufacturer making a couple of hundred thousand vehicle could not compete with the big three. That is the biggest reason they went out of business. You are seeing that today in the electric vehicle world with the small manufacturers.

Go here https://groups.io/g/EarlyCadillacGroup and ask for him. He is the moderator. Or he is in the HCCA directory.

Bob, I agree. If you measure the resistance of the brake magnets a calculation could be made on the current draw. The calculation must include all of the magnets in the circuit, not just one. Then look at the current draw and then look at the brake wiring for capacity of the wires according to the size. Another way would be put an amp meter in the circuit and see directly what the current draw of the brakes are and then look at the wire size. This would need to be checked or calculated at the front of the trailer where the brake wiring is going to the brake battery with the battery disconnected. Not hard to do, just takes some time.

Possibly a car, but the first thing that comes to mind is something like a go cart.

Agree with this attachment. Radiator, rubber cushion, frame, washer, spring, washer, nut, cotter pin unless you use a prevailing torque nut. As noted above this allows the radiator to move and not become part of the frame on flexing which can break out the studs that go to the radiator. Just IMO.

Better?

Full synthetic at Costco is about $3.95/quart made by the Warren Oil Co, California.

JV, You and I are in the same perspective of the world. We are one year apart on age. With the exception of a couple of cars from the 50's to the 70's I have no affinity for those vehicles. Then and even now to me they were oversize land yachts. One of the cars of that era that I liked was a Corvair turbo Spyder convertible. Small, sporty, and fun to drive. Another memorable car that I had was a 1984 Buick Skylark T Type with the high output engine, every option except an automatic trans. It had if I remember a four speed trans. Another fun car to drive. I would really like to have one of them now. Big cars are just not my thing, but I do like my full size truck because of the utility of the vehicle.

The cheapest that I bought cars for, quite a few years ago was when I bought a '63 and '64 Corvair for $20.00 total/ $10.00 each. I fixed the '64 and drove it almost 50,000 miles and then sold it for $300.00.

A couple of things. Have you tried to take out the key in the axle before trying to pry off the cover? I would start there. On the wedges depending on the quality of the welding it would probably be ok, but you should be able to find some. The wedges usually go for $5 to $20 each depending on the manufacturer/style. Numbers on the wedges do not identify a position. They are more to identify manufacturer of the wedges and maybe a date code. I might be wrong, but let a more knowledgeable Model T person correct or confirm.

Better

IMO for what it is worth, any oil today is better than the best oil "in the day" I use multi-viscosity in all of my old cars and have not had any problems yet and we drive them a lot. As for the zinc, from what I have read it is necessary for high compression, high valve spring tension engines.

Still snowing here in Detroit