abelincoln

I couldn't find one either. Used a looong pry-bar, and finally a small lawnmower engine clamp type spring compressor, worked on most valves. Ended up breaking most all the old valves, and had to patch the block when I scratched a couple bores where the valve guides go. Be careful. Abe

The simplest way is to get a 57-59 or so Ford vibrator regulator, apparently they used 6 volt gauges. I found a circuit with a regulating transistor, google 12-6 volt converter. Works pretty well. Abe

I'm sure a concourse judge would not notice if you used a Frys or Radio Shack plug and socket. Not sure about the 42 speaker, the ones I've seen have two terminals on them somewhere that connect to a wire that goes to a plug in the radio. My experience is that with radios this old, you usually need to replace the input electrolytic capacitors. Abe

I used 7mm Pertronix wires, pushed right through on my workbench. However, I cheated and ran the alternator, temp send wire, ignition, and OD cutout wires down the front of the block where no one will notice to leave more room in the conduits. Abe

I don't have specs particular to Lincolns, but you can find a standard range for the bolt size, say 1/2"? Use a breaker bar with a pipe on the handle. Abe

Glen: Been a while since I've seen the Edmonds, Some of the old timers I've talked to claimed the Edelbrock manifold worked better unless you rigged up a tube between the bottom of the carbs, sounds messy. Perhaps someone has a picture. I've been studying how to make a three carb manifold work with either Ford or Chevy two barrel throttle bodies run by a controller in a semi-synchronous injection mode. I do think it is possible. Abe

Since you're willing to give up some originality, you should consider the Reds Headers exhaust manifolds with dual exhaust. If you want more mixture into the engine, you've got to get more exhaust out. The headers really do look sharp. I've also heard that the Edmonds setup works better if you add a balance tube between the front and rear. Abe

Is your problem with the link, or with the shock, or both? You can find links on e-bay, measure carefully before ordering. I've also seen Ford conversions to tube shocks using a welded or bolted upper bracket, look for a kit. Abe

I've got one on the 48 that looks like it might support the vacuum operated radio antenna, which of course is missing, but left a few rubber lines under the dash. Don't know if that was an option for '38, but could have been added by a previous owner. Abe

When I got mine, the trunk couldn't be opened. I took out the shelf behind the rear seat in the convertible with a few screws, and was able to reach the latch and force open. Then a couple of machine screws took the whole lock assembly off. Still have some worn out parts to fix. Check for rust on the trunk floor while you're in there. Hope this helps. Abe

Beltfed: I haven't done the conversion, but I have thought about it. I think Speedway as well as others still have a kit www.speedwaymotors.com/Complete-Disc-Brake-Kit-1937-48-Ford-5-on-5-1-2-BC,1997.html. Its a bit tough to find on the webpage, uses Ford truck rotors and Chevy calipers. There is a warning about center hole size. I also recall a couple of threads in this forum, maybe someone who has done the conversion will chime in. I have changed the master cylinder for a power unit, seemed to work pretty good. If I add disks, I'll want a 2 lb. pressure retainer in the line to the front disks, and a pressure adjuster in the line to the rear drums. Abe

Hate it when that happens. You know, you could just get a front disk brake kit, bolt on parts. Abe

After staring at the insides of the H-12 engine for almost a year, (hey! the end is in sight) I thinking if I had more money than I knew what to do with and a large shop that could make complicated castings, a better V-12 could be made just a bit wider and larger with: 7 main bearings longer throw crank for increased stroke individual crank throws for each cylinder for an even fire engine bigger bore, I'd like to see about 350 cu in total un-siamesed intake ports for individual port fuel injection hotter cam, probably solid lifters improved cooling 8.5:1 compression heads of Aluminum. crank trigger spark Other ideas? Or are we all happy with what we've got? Abe

I like the way the BW OD drives, in second or high, take your foot off the gas at 22+ mph, and it shifts up. To me, its like a five speed. Second and OD is great for roads that need 25-35 mph or uphill without lugging the engine. My impressing is that overdrives are more plentiful, and therefore cheaper to obtain. You do need the shorter OD driveshaft and torque tube. I haven't found parts to be worse price than other manual transmissions I've messed with. Abe

John: The unit is basically a viable resistor to ground. You can ground the wire that goe to the fuel gauge withI the ignition on, and should get a full scale reading. If that work, remove screws that hold the sending unit in the tank and take out the sending unit (no smoking!) and see if the float is free to move. Possible problems are rusted in position float support, gas in the float, and bad resistor. Might need to send to a re builder, I've had poor luck with after-market replacements. Likely will need a new gasket as well. Abe

I found a puller on e-bay that did the job. Recommend putting the big nut on loosely to prevent parts flying when it lets go. Abe

There were several V-12's at Pebble Beach last year, haven't seen 2014 results yet, but yours could be next!

Glen: My booster is 7 inch diameter, 5 inches from mounting to mounting surface. Got it from an outfit called "Hot Rods USA". I ordered a kit, but had to bug them to send the remote fill kit you need as master cylinder no longer matches the fill hole in floor. Many vendors have, here is speedway link. www.speedwaymotors.com/7-Inch-Dual-Brake-Booster,8446.html. Speedway also has kits with pedals. Abe

Here is picture of dual diaphragm power unit that fits under floor. I used a 3/8 inch plate to adapt to frame, and coupler nuts to make original shaft end come out in right place to fit brake pedal. Master cylinder bolts on to rear. You can also purchase an assembly with brake pedal already attached. Abe

This looks a lot more sanitary than my method of putting engine on stand from the rear and holding up the front with a couple of 2 X 4's. Has George or anybody posted plans? Shouldn't be too tough to weld up. Abe

Beltfed: My power break unit is currently out of the car while I figure out how to patch the rust holes in the floor above the frame cross member. I can post a picture next week when I'm back in town with the Lincoln. Abe

The double diaphragm unit has a small enough diameter to fit under the floor. A single diaphragmpower unit would be too large. The actuating rod from the pedal assembly determines the height needed for the center. I had to fab a 3/8" plate to mount new power break unit to frame, Abe

I used a Ford under the floor double diaphragm aftermarket setup. Seems to work fine. I adapted to the original pedal, but believe the complete Ford assembly with dual master cylinder and pedal would work and be easier to install. Speedway and others have available. I had to cut a hole in the X member for the master cylinder to fit. Only problem was the hole in the floor to fill the master cylinder fluid no longer matched the master cylinder fill caps, so I installed a remote fill reservoir in the engine compartment. Abe

If you can get it to run, carefully measure the voltage at the points terminal on the coils (without fingers in the fan). Each should be somewhere around three volts. If one is six volts or zero, you have a problem as described above. Fouled plugs also make a difference. (Don't ask how I know.) Bottom bolt is tough to see, mark the big end of the distributor slot in the cam, and the corresponding end of the distributor so you can get it back properly. I've also had broken spring in NOS points. Abe

Perhaps Ford station wagon wheels would be the same? A good tire shop will have a cross reference table. Abe