Jump to content

abelincoln

Members
  • Posts

    504
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by abelincoln

  1. On car: 1. Check fuse, make sure transmission is not in reverse. 2. Ground relay terminal that goes to governor, should hear relay pick up and solenoid clunk. 3. if no clunk, check wiring to solenoid, and grounds. Make sure relay picks up even if solenoid doesn't. 4. Consider unplugging wires to solenoid, take out bolts, turn solenoid to remove. Have rag or plug handy as fluid will often leak out hole. Off car, or if still in car 1. Connect big wire to battery, ground case. Should clunk. If not, find a good electric rebuilding shop. Folks who rebuild starters should be able to fix solenoid. The Lincoln solenoid shaft is longer than most other OD units, tough to find a replacement, hopefully yours can be rebuilt. I've used ABE electric in Portland. Abe
  2. Give consideration to a Melling M15 high volume oil pump and pickup. You can also get a one piece front seal. I ended up busting most valves. If I did again, I'd just cut the old valve springs. The 8BA valves are much easier. I got a small engine clamp on valve spring compressor, worked pretty good. Some of us regrind cam for adjustable solid lifters. I got a Honda metric tapered piston installer. Worked great! Other options are a full flow oil filter, new aluminum heads and multi-carb manifolds. Hope you are faster than I am. Abe
  3. I think you could use a timing light, but first you'd have to find Top Dead Center (TDC) on cylinder no. 1 This is a problem on the flathead as when you pull a spark plug, you'll see valves, not pistons. Best way would be to remove the left head and turn engine to TDC, both valves closed. Then you would need to fabricate a pointer, and add marks on the pulley or damper. You can purchase a tape for this. If you take your distributor to someone with an old machine, the points can be set right on and you don't need to worry about TDC. I've used Philbin Manufacture AKA "flathead doctor" here in Portland. Philbin also has a solid state points kit for the V-12. Abe
  4. I got one of Ken Austin's final production, unless he's re-thought it. (Always possible). Ken was supplying H&H Flatheads, who of course want more money, but they are reputable. Look up Empire on FordBarn or HAMB. I wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole. Abe
  5. Almost forgot, definitely use 8BA 49-53 Ford one piece valve guides, springs, retainers.
  6. You'll need to make some decisions on internal mods that no one sees. Consider grinding the rear oil slinger on the crank and use a Ford seal. Solid, adjustable lifters? You'll need cam regrind, a hole drilled in the front pressure relief, and another small hole to lube the front cam gears. Solid one piece front seal? Reds headers and dual exhaust? Aftermarket finned aluminum heads? New intake with multiple carbs or throttle bodies? Eliminate distributor with pick-up and computer? Distributor can also be rebuilt with electronic ignition. Melling M-15 oil pump and oil pickup tube are also recommended. Want to use an external fuel pump? Give serious consideration to a PCV valve, stock engine has no crankcase ventilation. You can also add a full flow oil filter. Will you want power steering and air conditioning? Want a serpentine fan belt? Or if the car sits in a museum and gets trailered to shows, keep everything original. Abe
  7. Larry: Nice ride, what kind of rear view mirrors did you use? I can't see much in mine. Abe
  8. Could something be bent or out of alignment? Check camber, castor and toe-in by a reputable shop. I like ones run by old guys that might have seen our kind of suspension before. Don't think rear suspension would cause unless something is really loose or mis-installed. Abe
  9. Unhook the torque Tube, remove the nut that holds u-joint to trans shaft, and lift out to the front. Pull the cover and check for worn or chipped gears. If staying in 2d gear is a problem, replace synchros. Look for leaks, might be good idea to replace rear seal. Abe.
  10. Cool, should be able to see at 100 yards. Nice tablet too! Abe
  11. Might be worth a try to put in a can of STP or some other oil treatment to see if anything changes. You can also squirt a few pumps of oil into each cylinder and recheck compression. If compression goes up, might need rings. If not much improvement, try something to free up the valves in case there is carbon under that won't let close completely, eg Marvin Mystery oil. You pour into carb, and make a big stink. Abe
  12. The front mounted distributor is bolted to the front cover, and limits cam walk to the front. I understand the gear cut also helps. Abe
  13. No burnt valves, engine compartment looks remarkably clean. I suggest some form of crankcase ventilation when you put it back. Best of luck Abe
  14. I had pretty good luck with vanpeltsales.com. They had all the parts I needed. Finding a manual will help with disassembly, and more importantly assembly. I had a local shop press bearings and rear seal. Abe
  15. Oliver I did have to cut a hole in the cross member behind the new master cylinder for the MC to fit behind the booster, Just line the Booster up with the stock rod that connects to the pedal assembly at the stock height. I used two coupling nuts to connect, see above picture. Perhaps someone local to you has a 7 in dual booster that would work. Must be an auto parts store somewhere nearby. Show them a picture. Good luck! Abe
  16. I got some cool Hogan New Zealand Heads from the SCAT crankshaft company in California. Has two water outlets on each head so they can be symmetrical, and revised spark plug locations. Abe
  17. Oliver: The 7 inch dual booster fits just fine. Some firewall mounted boosters are much larger. We used new bolts to secure the pedal assembly through the frame with nuts on the engine side of the frame. Had to cut holes in the adapter plate to cover the bolt heads. You mount the booster so the rod on the booster front will connect to the Lincoln rod with the cotter pin using a couple of coupling nuts with a short piece of threaded rod inbetween. This also gives you a place to adjust the length of the combined rod to adjust pedal height. Hope this helps Abe
  18. Oliver: You should be able to make the parts work, You'll still need to make or buy an adapter plate. Here is mine bolted to booster. I used a steel plate, but aluminum might be easier to drill. I used a coupling nut to tie old rod to new booster input shaft. Had to drill holes in frame for long bolts and for booster bolt heads. Holes in plate cover bolt heads that secure the stock pedal assembly. The master cylinder bolts on the back of the booster, so a separate bracket is not needed, but I did have to notch the cross member behind the master cylinder to make room. Seems like you might find some local parts as they make quite a few nice cars in Germany. Abe
  19. Oliver: Yes, (Yaah) I ordered mine from an outfit that was close to my location, but is no longer in business. The master cylinder quit on me, so I got a replacement from Master Power, www.mpbrakes.com. So far, so good, If I had to do it again, I usually get great service from Speedway Motors. They should have everything you need. They are also good with advice. I think Summit Racing also has pretty much everything. Check out Jegs as well. I'm going to replace the cheap hoses from the fenderwell mount remote fill to the master cylinder soon. You need: dual master cylinder, small size to fit in small space ( had to notch the crossmember to make it fit, got a spare Corvette MC that wouldn't fit) Remote fill kit with tops for master cylinder, hoses, and reservoir for fender well. Dual diaphragm booster, 7 inch size. Adapt stock brake pedal assembly to booster (I used a 3/8 inch plate and cut holes, easier to just buy an aftermarket assembly) 1/2 inch hose and T to splice vacuum line to booster For disk brakes: Speedway kit with custom bracket, new wheel bearings and races with Ford truck 5 on 5 1/2 lug rotors, Chevy calipers, You need to shrink an adapter ring on stock spindle. Also, need adjustable proportioning valve to equalize pressure front and back, 2 lb residual valve for front brakes, and a bunch of brake tubing and adapters for the master cylinder, proportioning valve, and front disks. Lincoln has 1/4 inch lines, disk calipers and proportioning valve take 3/16 line. Hope this helps Abe Abe
  20. Please don't start with 40 year old gas. If you are lucky, you can blow out the gas line. Drain the gas. I had to remove tank, and take to radiator shop to clean. Foul smelling gunk in there. Abe
  21. i found a soft plastic rope on e-bay. I'm using John Deer Corn Head grease, comes in a tube. Went together fine, but we haven't got the rest of the car together to see if it leaks when run. Look for Ford seal. Abe
  22. Mike: Someone in the past put an aftermarket 6 volt vacuum booster on my firewall, pretty ugly but seemed to work. Might check if the vacuum tank in the right front fender is there, or if it might have a leak. If the tank holds vacuum, and the hoses aren't cracked and leaking, your original vacuum motor should work, unless it too has a leak or worn parts. Should also be able to find a replacement if necessary. Abe
  23. Bill: The low buck plan would be to just get a new aftermarket setup, Jegs, Speedway, Summit, etc. You may already have switches in the door you can re-use. I think the original switches for the hydraulic cylinders could be also used, might need a couple of relays. With a little digging, might even find one that works on 6 volts. If you went for the battery in the trunk, maybe an upverter would charge a 12 volt battery even if it wouldn't run the window motors directly. Keep us posted, our 48 LCC windows don't go up either. Abe
  24. Bill: I suspect you'll find a bunch of plugged and corroded hydraulic lines that made the previous owner put in electrics. You could attempt to rod out lines and check for leaks and find new hydraulic cylinders to restore, or consider 12 volt, negative ground conversion. You can get stealth 12 volt batteries with three fill holes in top, and alternators that look like a generator. Might also try taking old window motors to an electrical rebuild shop to see if they might be made to work on 6 volts. I suspect they would be slow. With electric, you could operate windows with engine off. Abe
  25. Mine takes 6 quarts, but seems like you should have some pressure. The hot tip seems to be use a Melling M-15 high volume pump. Takes a different pick-up tube and screen from Mac's or others. Abe
×
×
  • Create New...