abelincoln

Lee If you're not so particular about correctness, it might be easier to install an aftermarket electric window system. You could then use the stock switch location and not poke more holes in the door upholstery. Most kits give you a track that attaches to the window support frame and a motor to push up and down. Abe

Just a hunch... Maybe someone didn't attach the skirts firmly, and they fell off when going over a bump? Abe

Thanks for the heads up. Seems like there was reported an earlier bankruptcy on H.A.M.B., and the company reconstituted with some folks loosing money. They claim to have sold Lincoln heads, so someone must have more recent experience. Anyone willing to share? Abe

I've had several conversations with RA Perriguey, Empire Motors Inc, El Paso, TX. He makes beautiful looking V-12 finned heads and corresponding two pot manifolds per the Elelbrock design that he has improved upon. He also makes a lot of exotic parts, Cadillac V-16 and Packard 8 blocks, Auburn and Mercer engines, etc. They are period reproduction parts, so should be OK if your car is concurs judged. Questions: Anyone familiar with these parts? Price quotes are $2650 for a pair of heads, and $2250 for the intake. This seems high, but forms and cores cost $30-40K, materials $3-400. They seem to be finely machined, and ports match gaskets. Is there interest in a group purchase? We'd need: 1) orders for 10 or so sets, 2) someone to collect and ship the individual orders. Hopefully, someone nearby to avoid large transportation charges. We'd reimburse shipping costs. We could expect a 10% or so discount. So, who is willing to put the $ down? They work pre-paid, and take 12-16 weeks. Anyone willing to collect and ship, fully reimbursed of course? Comments, questions?

Top down is my favorite driving position too. But I really need to fix the heaters for this weather, its frosty here. Abe

Radical idea: pull the Lincoln tube radio and speaker, put a nav/radio/bluetooth/ipad/mp3 behind the now removable speaker grill so no one knows what's there. You could also get a back-up camera to help with the impossible blind spot and un-seeable right side rear view mirror. (Haven't done this, but sure thought about it.) Then you could listen to Portland classical station or even the oldies, and put sub-woofers in the trunk behind the back seat. My right side mirror has a LCOC sticker in the window blocking view. Abe

After 30+ years of sitting with brake fluid, my top cylinders were both full of a solid, smelly goo. I took a bent wire and rodded them out as best I could. I had to sand the exposed piston shaft with emory cloth. I put both auto trans fluid and NAPA tractor fluid (which I prefer) in the holes, and was eventually able to work the piston back and forth. Then I rodded them some more. I also had to clean the tubing with an old speedometer cable. I eventually gave up and bought a 1960 top pump, had it rebuilt, and mounted under the back seat. I used two relays to operate from a toggle up down switch I mounted under the dash. Now the top goes up and down with reasonable dispatch. I still have to use a screw driver to bring the shrunken top pins to their receptacles in the windshield when putting up. Keep trying, you'll get it eventually. Abe

Not sure why adding sleeves would add reliability. Unless your bores are bad, seems like at least one of two blocks would be OK. Use new aluminum pistons with modern rings in re-bored block if possible. A little added compression would also be good. You don't have overhead valves to worry about oiling, most builders I've talked with just replace stock oil pump with high volume Melling pump and call it good. The engines don't see high RPMs, so reliability should be good. The V-8 solid valve guides are better also. Abe

The 48 LC has low or no compression in cylinders no. 9 and 10, runs and drives, but will barely get out of its own way. I tried the mystery oil trick in the intake manifold, got lots of smoke and wet plugs, but still fluctuating vacuum. So I pulled plugs. Looks like the valve you can see through the no. 10 plug hole has a piece of valve missing on the edge. Anyone ever seen such a thing? What to do next? Thanks Abe

Interesting thread. Perhaps the fate of the Model T can be instructive. All the folks who bought them new are gone. Most of their children are going, or are getting too old to drive. A whole new generation is buying, joining clubs, and enjoying. I think my car will be around long after I'm gone. I'm in the middle of the pack, 65, and when I retired, I bought a motorcycle, and electric guitar, and a 48 Lincoln Continental Cabriolet. No lack of things to do around here. Abe

I'd start with a volt meter. Could be most anything wrong with the wiring after that length of time. With ignition on, should have 6 or zero volts at coil. When spinning, about 3. If not, problem is with resistors under dash or wiring in between. Next, pull distributor, see if points are breaking. I've had a NOS rebuild break springs on points. I had mine rebuilt by the "Flathead Doctor" AKA Philbin Manufacturing in Portland, OR. They also have solid state replacement points if you want to spend the $. If points are good, measure resistances of the coils. Philbin will rebuild coils also. Abe

Glen: So far, the problems are mainly with the ignitions system, some of which I've made for myself. I've discovered it doesn't work so well to have wires reversed on the terminal plate, and the coil replacement plate uses metal tubes for the brushes that flash over at 40 kV, multiple spark. The firing order is 1 4 9 8 5 2 11 10 3 6 7 12. The crankshaft goes clockwise when looking at from the front, so the camshaft and distributor rotor goes counter clockwise. The left, drivers side points runs the front rotor, and the right, passenger side runs the rear rotor. The front rotor picks up plug wires 1, 9, and 5 on the left side of the distributor, and then 10, 6, and 12 on the passenger side. The rear rotor starts with 4, 8, and 2 on the passenger side, then moves to 11, 3, and 7 on the drivers side. The engine cylinder banks are 75 degrees apart, so when plug no 1 files at TDC, plug 4 fires 75 deg. later, and plug 9 fires 45 deg. later, etc. The crank throws for 5, 6, 7, and 8 are rotated 75 deg. from plugs 1 and 2, so 5 and 6 can fire in sequence with plug one. The distributor rotor has 6 evenly spaced bumps, so you get a points break every 120 deg of crankshaft travel on each set of points. If this isn't right, someone please correct. Pretty clever those Leyland engineers in 1936 who designed a V-12 using Henry Ford parts. With this knowledge, you can see which plugs are getting spark with a clamp on timing light, and trace back to which circuit is causing problems. I didn't have the inside points plugs firing at first. Now I just have weak spark on the passenger side bank regardless of which set of points fires the plugs. But by then the new plugs were fouled, and when I find that Marvel oil, maybe things will work better. Thanks Dee Abe

Finally got the 48 V-12 so it starts quickly and sounds not too bad. However, the engine vacuum at idle is about 16 lbs, slightly fluctuating. This is low, should be 18 or so and steady? The compression (cold engine) is about 75 lbs on all cylinders except for 9 and 10 which are 25 and zero respectively. I'm guessing stuck valves with the tic in vacuum and low compression. The low cylinders are on the same crank throw. Does it do further harm to drive the engine this way? Should we pull the heads and intake manifold to free the valves, or bite the bullet, pull the engine and rebuild with 8BA valve guides, hardened seats, aluminum pistons, high volume oil pump, etc? I plan to rebuild the engine anyway, but would like to be able to drive the car while we sort out the suspension, steering, brakes, heaters, and body work. All suggestions are welcome. Thanks Abe

One more thought, you could also mount two resistors between the stock resistors and the coil. Abe

I'm not using the Skips coil, but I think the idea is to keep about 3 volts or so at the points. (be careful when measuring, they are close to the fan!) The problem is that the stock resistors have a common source, and the additional ballast resistor is in series with the now 12 volt source. If you wanted separate resistors, you'd need to separate the two stock resistors, or replace the assembly with two larger resistors to drop the 12 volt source to 3 volts at the points. Mount someplace where they will get lots of air, these things get hot. I'd guess you need 50 Watt resistors with a value of 1.2 ohms plus the stock resistor value. Measure yours or maybe someone on this forum will know. You may need to try a couple to get the voltage at the points right. Abe

I discovered, quite by accident, that the upholstered backs and bottom of the front seat just lift out. You kind of pull the bottom of the back to the front and lift up to clear a couple of tabs near the top of the frame. You should then be able to see what else is needed. Abe

One of the Gear Vendors or similar units would be better for a late model. The units adapt to most vehicles, but a bit pricey. The BW OD's are non-synchro-mesh in first gear, meaning you have to be just about stopped, or put in second before low when downshifting from high. The early units are not that robust, although a diesel Mercedes would seem to be within the trannie's limits. 49 Ford and later were for open driveshaft, and there were two units, T-86 and T-85. The T85 is desirable as it is much stronger and found behind T-Birds, Some Mercuries, and big block Fords. I've put T-85's in 56 Fords and they are bullet proof. I took all the teeth of the T-86 input gear by kicking down the OD, which also messed the cluster gear, etc. The T-85 has a curved bottom side plate. The T-86 is a top loader. The BW OD was also used in Chevrolets and the various independent manufactures, so there are various mounting patterns available. Ford changed the mounting pattern in 65, and you need an adapter for earlier trannies. Why not pull the smoking, rattle motor and install an American V-8 complete with the desired transmission? You'd have a real sleeper. Abe

Glenn: The manual drum brakes should work better than that. Maybe you have moisture or a wheel cylinder isn't working? Since I haven't done the disk conversion yet, I recalled a thread of someone who did http://forums.aaca.org/f128/48-lincoln-front-disc-conversion-287022.html?nojs=1#links. My take was to look in the Speedway motors catalog and order the parts needed, but any old Ford supply place should have what we need. I already did get a Power master cylinder and adapt to the Lincoln pedal with a steel plate, threaded rod, and long adjusting nut. Would have been simpler to get a Ford pedal and power master cylinder assembly. Seems to work OK though. Abe

I'm 6 ft, and the 48 LC fits me OK, much better than a Honda! If you are still unhappy with the location of the steering wheel, I've seen any number of Fords with aftermarket columns, which I should imagine would also work for Lincoln. You can order them in various lengths. This would also allow for modern steering gear if desired. You'd need to adapt the stock steering wheel. Some columns will let you keep the 3 on a tree shifter levers. You can also get tilt wheels, but I've not seen one that would work with the column shift. A more radical approach would be to change the comfy Lincoln seats with modern buckets, but that would really change the appearance. Abe

Several aftermarket companies sell kits for Ford, which also will work for Lincoln. Try Speedway Motors - Street Rod Parts, Race Parts, Ford Flathead Parts, Sprint and Midget Racing Parts, Pedal Car Parts. Some kits use the Ford PU rotors with 5 1/2 bolt circle. The GM replacement kits need new wheels and conflict with the rear wheels for spare tire. You'll also need a proportioning valve for front to back, and possibly a anti-drainback valve. New power brake master cylinder is also advised. However, the double diaphragm boosters that fit under the floor put the fill cap out of alignment with the hole in the Lincoln floor, so you then need a remote fill kit, and probably a hole in the cross member to fit the longer master cylinder. You also need to plumb in a brake light switch. Let us know how this works, I'm thinking about disk brakes too. Abe

I use the factory book, its pretty good. You should consider some improvements like aluminum pistons, late model flathead (8BA) valves and one piece guides, high capacity (melling or equal) oil pump, hardened valve seats, etc. Dig through this forum and you'll find recommendations for all this stuff. A good engine machine shop should already know to do these things as well. If you want more power, intake manifolds with two, three, or one four barrel carb are available. Red's headers had nice looking exhaust headers. Aluminum heads would be nice, but are hard to find. Abe

Chip: I've seen this done on Fords of the vintage, so should work for Lincolns. Seems like your work would be easier if you could find some two door doors, move the post and fill in. You would have a unique vehicle. Hope you are good at cutting and welding, draw some detailed sketches first! You could sell your project for as is, and purchase a two door fastback for less hassle and maybe less $. Abe

I got an adapter plate from Richman industries. Should be a link somewhere on this forum. Seems to work pretty good, allows me to run two MSD ignition systems, MSD Blaster coils, and Pertronic 7mm plug wires. Had to re-gap plugs for 50 thousandth. However, I still had problems when I left one ground off. But the points should now last nearly forever as they carry very little current. Abe

Glenn: This happens to me with disgusting regularity. Usually the problem is only one set of points is functioning properly. If you can measure voltage at the points with engine running, (watch our for fan) the problem can be isolated. Voltage should be about 3 volts on each set of points for stock ignition. If one is zero, or 6 volts, something is not right. Each set fires 3 cylinders on each bank so it can be confusing which set is the problem. If the ignition is up to par, try carburetor internal leaks. Leaky power valve would cause the symptoms. Does it run better when choked? Last year's gas could be a possible worry also. I've had to blow out line to the gas tank before it flows properly. Abe

Glen: Looking at the entries in this thread, must be at least 10 who would buy at up to some reasonable price. Maybe we could suggest a value that might be good per your discussions with suppliers, and get us to say we'd be willing to spend up to that amount. Perhaps one of the AACA suppliers would be willing to take a few to sell? There is always e-Bay. I don't think a set would be difficult to sell if one of us has a set and for some reason can't install. Abe