abelincoln

Harry: I have Red's headers installed. They look great. The exhaust exit is before the rear port, so there is room for firewall and accessories. I haven't got the pipes put in yet, but got an estimate for $650 using Flowmaster mufflers (which still seemed high). You do need to cut or enlarge a hole in the driver's side cross member. I'm also thinking of installing a sheet metal shield between the pipe and the brake master cylinder. Red's are really nice to talk with, and have lots of ideas. Abe

Glen: I think it was a 47 Ford station wagon. However, the fellow sent me the wrong length at first, so I returned and he sent the right ones. Do a careful job of measuring yours first! I still haven't installed mine as I'm working on the engine accessories, and probably won't be ready to roll until snow is flying. Hopefully your project is quicker than mine. Abe

I'll second checking the links. I thought my shocks were shot, an expensive proposition. Measure yours carefully. I found some links for a Ford station wagon on e-bay that were the right length. If you want to convert to tube, check out the web sites for Ford, should be the same, although I've not personally seen this done on a Lincoln. Abe

I found a pump from a 60 Lincoln. Fits under the rear seat for more room under hood. Abe

Assuming your car is complete and unmodified, you should already have an overdrive behind the transmission. Maybe it doesn't work? You should have a lockout cable handle under the dash, and an OD relay on the fire wall. Abe

Just a thought, are you trying to run 12 volt horns with 6 volts? Works fine the other way. Also, sometimes our old wiring isn't up to the job, check voltage at the horn during both normal and operating condition. You should have a horn relay, the ground connection from the steering wheel isn't up to the task of honking horns. Abe

Frenchie: I have one of those down draft tubes on a 312 Y block, currently in a well worn 56 County Sedan. I hate the thing. Either the filter gets plugged up and then the valve cover gaskets leak due to the internal pressure, putting oil on the exhaust manifold which eats the exhaust gasket, and then the vehicle is noisy tic. tic. tic. exhaust leak. If the filter isn't plugged, it blows oil which then drips all over my garage floor. I got a carburetor spacer with a provision for a PCV valve. All I need to do is run a hose from the hole in the side of the block where the draft tube is mounted. I think the V-12 Lincoln would benefit from a similar solution. My V-12 is worn enough to put vapor out the oil fill tube. Previous owner plugged in a piece of heater hose in the oil fill pipe to run under the car. There is already a hole in the V-12 intake manifold for a pipe to the air cleaner that could be used for a PCV valve. You could then plug the other end of the PCV valve into a carburetor spacer, or drill a hole in the carb base and insert a pipe nipple. Hopefully your oil pan mounter breather is better baffled so as to not blow out oil. Abe

Dee: The 57 Ford Holly is a great carb, just under 600 CFM. I've been running one on my 312 Y Block for years. I improved the leak and made the float adjustment easier by putting some later model float bowls on, off an 1850 600 CFM that ran too rich. I think the Holly is easier to rebuild and much more adjustable than the Autolite. Still might be worth your wile to find someone with a dyno and an exhaust gas analyzer to fine tune the jet size and the accelerator pump linkage. Your manifold looks like it may be a single plane?, making low speed tougher to adjust. PCV should help with the famous V-12 sludge build up. Thanks for the updates. Abe

Dee: You must have put some effort into making the assembly look so nice. last time I tried to re-carb an engine, a 68 T-Bird 429 I made into a 460 with a Lincoln crank, and a new Holley 750 cfm, I had to take the car to McGee auto in Lake Oswego to put on a dyno with an exhaust analyzer, and have them re-jet the carb. Worked pretty good afterword. When I get a caught up with a few other re-builds, I'll try the 4-bbl for the Lincoln V-12. Abe

Mitch: If you want to look at yourself, or have someone local, first take out all the tubes and the vibrator, and have tested. Make a few calls, usually someone will have a tube tester. If you can't find a tester, set up on a bench with a 6 volt battery charger and a big capacitor to simulate a battery. Look to see if all the elements are glowing, and listen for the vibrator to be vibrating. Several people import tubes from the Chech Republic on the web, so you should be able to find what you need. Then: replace all the large capacitors on the input stage. They do go bad after a while, and yours has had 60 years. Just be aware of the polarity on the capacitors. If you've changed to negative ground, this is a good time to reverse the polarity. See if you can find a book with a schematic diagram. Try the literature sources. Your speaker might also be shot. Good luck Abe

I put a 1960 pump under the rear seat. Much cheaper, you can get rebuild kits, and didn't have to unplug the solid filled tubes from the dash. You can also get a 6-12 Volt box if you still have 6 volt system. More room in the engine compartment too. Abe

Just a thought, you might be able to use a 56-58 Ford Passenger car switch B6AZ-13341-A. Has a 35.25 inch wire cable instead of a 26.50 inch for the T-Bird switch B6SZ-13341-A. Should be able to acquire at a lower cost. Abe

Our '56 312 has been pushing oil out the draft tube for some time. Compression checks at about 100 psi on all cylinders except cylinders no.s 2,3, and 6 which are about 80 lbs. I thinking its time to pull for new rings or a bore job. Any thoughts? Thanks Abe

I took the front motor mount bolts off the 48 LC, and the nuts skidded down into the frame on both sides. Can't seem to fish them out, so I think I'll just buy some new 7/16 nuts. Anyone figured how to extract the old nuts? thanks Abe

Glen: Seem like the resistor connection would work. You wouldn' want the pump pumping when the engine was off. Now consider if you should have a fuse in the circuit, but carry a spare if you do! Abe

I've seen ex-moonshiners cars, usually '40 Fords with all manner of extra compartments, such as a tank built under the front seat. Do you know the history of yours? Abe

Peacher: The 4 BBL manifold does look nice. You should have lots of room for a spacer as most 4 barrel carbs are low profile. Equivalent Holly carbs are easier to tune than the Autolite. I replaced the Autolite on my 429 with a Holly. But if you have a carb available, might as well try it. If you are planning to drive in the winter, you could consider a mid 60's Ford spacer with a hot water plumbing chamber. I've got a 289 with this feature, I think its a '65. Find in a wrecking yard or on e-bay. You could put a "Y" in the hose from the left cylinder head. Are you considering a PCV valve? Spacers also include this feature. Did you figure out how to route the throttle linkage from the right side of the carburetor to the left? I'd assume you are also disabling the dash board throttle lever. Keep us posted on progress. Abe

In addition to the above, worn bushings in the shock links could add a bit extra bounce. What happens when you bounce the car while its standing? Also check the wheel play, both loaded and unloaded. Abe

Dadsolds: Ask a few questions. My 48 was nice looking, original condition, but upon arrival I discovered the floor was rusted through at the frame support under the drivers mat, trunk has rust spot (but not through yet), and the bottom of the right rocker panel is swiss cheese. These are easy fixes, but will take time and $. Check chrome, and get estimates. I'll spend more than anticipated to bring back to original bright. However, I still think I got a good deal. Abe

Sounds like you have electrical gremlins. The starter relay has a fuse, and lots of wires to check. Get a good diagram, see page 386 of the Ford, Lincoln and Mercury Service Manual, 1942-1948. You can get a reprinted manual from the resources page or on the web, try e-bay. When the OD solenoid drops out, the engine is disconnected from the rear wheels, and the signal light goes out. Check connections to relay, solenoid, kick-down switch, and governor. Could be an intermittent in any of these places. Abe

If you really can't get a deal on a Lincoln V-12, BMW makes the most popular V-12 in the world. Don't put in a pedestrian motor (like Chevrolet), keep your class. After all, it is a Lincoln. You'd have the usual issues of fabbing motor mount plates, converting to open drive shaft, etc. When you pull the motor form the donor car, get all the wiring, computers, etc. Abe

Dee: Attached are a few photo's of Red's headers. As you can see, I'm in the middle of re-wiring and plumbing. Engine needs paint too. Abe

Peecher: Thanks for the cam info. I'll check it out for my application. Tacoma isn't that far from Portland. Only drawback is that when you go to mechanical lifters you need to take off the intake manifold to adjust periodically. I took off the under engine pans to facilitate getting the old exhaust manifolds off, and making it easier to reach underside bolts on the Red's headers. I'm in no hurry to put the pans back, but they should still fit. I took the pans off my 56 country sedan 40 years ago and haven't missed them. The Lincoln radiator is high off the ground and shouldn't need to worry about rocks. The header output pipe is above the pedal level, so we'll have to bend the headpipe away from the pedal travel. You have the option of routing the headpipe through the frame on the left side near the rocker panel or closer to the transmission. I'm going with the outside. Holly makes some nice 570-590 CFM four barrel carburetors that are flexible and easy to tune. The old Holly hot rod carb no. 1850, 600 CFM might also be OK, although they tend to be a bit rich at idle and low speeds. Abe

Peecher: I do have the Red's headers in my 48 LC. I haven't hooked up head pipes yet as I took too much of the rest of the car apart to get it to run to the muffler shop. There is about 1/2 inch clearance to the steering column, otherwise everything is pretty much in the open. The rear tubes come forward enough to miss the starter on the right and the throttle linkage on the left. I'll try to find some pictures. The headers are coated silver and really look sharp. I was calculating a 292 engine would like a bit less than 600 CFM, sounds like you're in the ball park. Did you re-grind the stock cam or find a rare Isky replacement? Abe

If they can supply you a manifold, this is good news. Please post photo when your's is working. What is the best CFM for your 4- barrel? Seems like you'd also like some Red's headers to facilitate better breathing. Absent some after market solution, I've been thinking of making a sheet metal intake. Since the mounting surface is flat, a plain sheet of steel, aluminum, or ABS plastic could be bolted to the engine with eight tubes from the block intake ports to a rectangular box plenum with a carburetor spacer plate attached to the top. Will the Austin unit have provision for a positive crankcase valve (PCV)? Internal engine breathing and sludge is a problem with V-12's. Abe