abelincoln

Yes, if you use a Ford lifter (Egge), you need a Ford grind on the cam. Also use a break in oil with additives. Abe

Sounds like you will need a custom made adaptor to attach the C4 to the Lincoln X member.

If you are using solid adjustable lifters, makes sense to plug the oil passage at the back of the engine, and drill a 1/16th hole down the front passsge with a small hole from the front to lube the timing chain. I don't think the additional seals will help much. Abe

For turn signals, you could just use a 6 volt flasher. However if you wish to change polarity, the ignition, starter, gauges, accessories will run fine with either positive or negative ground. The only possible problem is the radio which has electrolytic capacitors in the input circuit. These are probably shot after 60+ years, so get new ones and install with opposite polarity. If you decide to use 12 volts, get a voltage drop circuit for the gauges (a 57-60 instrument vibrator will do), use a resistor on the radio. Ignition needs a re-wound coil assembly for 12 volts, a plate on the distributor for use with two 12-Volt coils, or a 50 watt 1.2 ohm resistor mounted in the air as it gets very hot. All flatheads will benefit from a hotter spark. You can take the cover off the OD solenoid (if so equipped) and isolate the holding coil to wire a dropping resistor in the circuit to limit current and keep from burning out. Pick-up coil should work OK with 12 volts. Worst part of the job is standing on your head under the dash to rethread the wire that passes though the ammeter from the other direction. Abe

I was thinking I'd mill the heads for a bit more compression, but after I set on engine with some silly pudy on the Egge pistons and found basically just the clearance of the head gasket, I decided to install as out of the box. How much torque for aluminum heads? The heads are thinker on the bottom than the cast iron heads, so you need new, longer studs for the bottom row. Abe

Congratulations on a running Lincoln. My observation is that the OD is more reliable and easier to use. However, if you want to keep things strictly stock, try to find a Columbia. They seem to be scarce. If you can't find either, a Luv truck T-5 can be used with a Ford adapter and conversion to open drive shaft. Abe

A couple years ago, I found someone selling Ford shock links on e-bay. Measure your center to center links carefully. I matched my front shock links with Ford station wagon units that had the same center to center distance. Seemed to work OK. Abe

Dee: You are right as usual. I discovered the passage in the OD adapter housing, you have to insert the plunger from the shift rail area with the shift rail assembly not installed. The short shaft of the shift rail assembly has a small diameter section where the plunger resides, and then moves the plunger as the shift rail is moved toward the rear lock out position and the plunger makes contact with the larger diameter section of the rail shaft. Pretty cleaver of those Borg Warner engineers. I have diagrams for the later model transmissions that lack this feature. Don't know what I would do without the help of folks on this forum. Thanks Abe

Decided to gather all the transmission parts for the 48 overdrive, and was doing pretty good until I got to the little bullet shaped plunger. I think its supposed to keep the OD from engaging in reverse, not that you could rev the engine to 22 MPH in reverse. Question is, Where do you put it? The later model BW OD trans don't use it. Thanks Abe

There's more. This came at a good time for me. I e-mailed SCAT and was told they had one pair. So I called, and the fellow answering said they had several. Casting is a not very smooth, so probably won't polish other than the fins. I need to fabricate connections to radiator hoses, temp gauge, heater, etc. Abe

1941: That sounds wonderful. Please check your e-mail for response. Thanks Abe

Do you think the oil pump gear cover part no. 56H 6637, is the same as the Ford V-8 part 18-6664-A, or Macks' part 32-12057-1 and will interchange? Mine comes in two pieces. Looks like someone tried to glue sometime in the dim past. Thanks Abe

Shift levers should be in the same plane in neutral, If one is higher (or lower) needs adjustment. Might try un-hooking linkage and shifting levers on the transmission to make sure trannie shifts OK. Did you check trans and overdrive fluid levels? Abe

How about grill and bumpers? PM me at trades707@juno.com Thanks Abe

H&H flatheads lists them in their catalog, claims they are from Australia. I like your source better. Abe

Thanks Dee, I'll check the clearance with some puddy. Measuring from the pan rail, looks like it will be close. But, I just figured out that it will be easier to install the flywheel with the oil pan off, so I'll get the flywheel surfaced first. Abe

Dig the white coats! Must have been easier without fenders on the car. Abe

Flatcat: Yeah, I looked at it a long time, lotta weight for 5/16 bolts. At least I bought class 8. Wasn't heavy until I put the crank in. Harbor Freight engine stand doesn't seem to be complaining, but I'll get it off the stand and onto some blocks of wood soon as the pan is ready. Front cover, heads, manifolds, water pumps, and accessories are still off. Concerning the rear main drain, after bolting up the pickup tube to the oil pump. I'm now thinking a plug in the bearing cap hole with a small hole drilled in the plug might work better. Engine is getting tough to turn by hand with all the rod nuts installed and torqued and valves adjusted. Abe

Dee: Thanks again!, I'll bend the pipe. Abe

What functions does the "S" pipe screwed into the rear bearing cap provide? Drain for oil that gets past the oil slinger? I've converted the rear to use the Ford seals and ground the crank oil slinger. The pipe is in the way of the Melling M15 oil pickup. I'm thinking of just leaving the pipe off, and letting it drip. Do you think this will work? Thanks Abe

Congratulations. Six years seems to be about what it takes, I've had my LC that long, and am just finishing the engine. I'm sure it will run smooth. Abe

DS: Yes, although some springs are easier to get to than others. I think I'll be able to get them all. Abe

Some assembly progress. I soon tired of trying to force valve spring to get 8BA locks on the valves. Lots of valves in a 12 cylinder engine! I noticed the pistons look like something you might find in a lawn mower, so my bright ideas was to try a small engine valve compressor. Seems to work pretty well. You have to jockey and adjust to fit in the lifter gallery, but I'm almost done. Easier than using the long bar method. Egge shorted me two one piece valve guides so I'll have to pick them up. I'll get the thing back together hopefully in a month or two. Abe

Not sure about 41, but most later models I've seen come with an oil bath air filter. You do need to change the oil. Might be running lean, no air filter would slightly richen Maybe carb should be taken apart and soaked in carb cleaner and re-assembled with new gaskets, power valve, etc. If you still have the stock ignition resistors, you need an 1.2 ohm, 25 or 50 watt resistor in series, otherwise you can overvoltage the coil and damage. You also need a 6 volt regulator for the stock instruments. You can also replace the coil with a plate and use electronic ignition with two coils. Mine had MSD for a while, but flashed over the terminals when the plugs were fouled. Stock ignition has weak spark. If the 12 Volt conversion uses negative ground instead of the stock positive ground, the stock radio needs new input capacitors with polarity reversed. On my pre-rebuild engine, someone had run a hose from the oil fill tube to underneath the car. Sorta worked but the underside was a sticky mess. I'm now a fan of PCV valves. Abe

ps If you take the distributor out, mark which end goes into the big end of the slot. Its easy to miss, and can crack the housing if you put it back wrong. Don't ask me how I know. Abe