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Everything posted by abelincoln

  1. Booster in fender looks cool. I replaced master cylinder with dual diaphragm 7 inch booster. But you need a remote fill kit as hole in floor no longer lines up with the MC. I also rebuilt everything and replaced bad lines. Stopped as well as my non-power 56 Ford, but not as well as our later cars with disks. Speedway has a great kit for Ford pickup disks. Get it when they are offering free shipping. In addition to the master cylinder, you'll need a 2 lb residual valve in the front lines, and a proportioning valve for the rear.
  2. Lots of options here. You can get a generator that looks like a generator and works with positive ground and 6 volts, or you can convert to 12 volts negative ground, get a Ford adapter and bolt in a GM 100 amp one wire alternator and eliminate the regulator on the fire wall. Latter option won't look stock, but will spin starter faster. Abe
  3. If you can rotate the crank to the position where most of the throws are up, especially in front, you'll have a easier time getting pan off. Abe
  4. PS: With head off, did you mike the cylinders to check for wear and out of round?
  5. LM: This can be frustrating. If you have the V-12 running, you should check the vacuum. If you get a tick every so often, could be a stuck or burnt valve. I had two of them. If vacuum is smooth, try adding oil in the cylinders, and re-check compression. If you get a significant increase, worn rings or cylinder walls is suspect. Better if you can put water in before running. Is the oil level indicator rising? low cylinders could be letting gas in. I had this and discovered when oil-gas mix came out rear non-seal. Not a safe operation either. Good thing nobody smokes here. Do you get noxious blow-by out the oil fill tube? With head off, can you feel a large ridge at top of bore? Maybe you'll get lucky and a can of STP or equivalent will solve the problem. Abe
  6. Will make a big difference if a leak or malfunction should occur, With a dual cylinder you still have two wheels to brake. The piston diameter in the new master cylinder will impact the braking effort. I put a 7-inch dual vacuum power break unit in front of the new master cylinder, which does help braking quite a bit. Of course, the new master cylinder does no longer line up with the fill hole in the floor, so I had to get a remote fill kit with a reservoir on the inner fender. Next step is to use a Speedway kit for Ford truck disks in front with a proportioning valve to balance front and rear and a 2 lb. residual valve to keep front disks in place. Abe
  7. I suspect you mean what we'd call a dual master cylinder. You can buy an aftermarket kit for Ford with or without power assist. I had to make an adapter plate for mine to use original pedal. I suppose Speedway Motors would ship to Germany. You'll then need to do some plumbing and bleeding. Abe
  8. This is highly subjective, but my review of material available on Lincoln history has the 41 as a project of Edsel Ford, and the front end is both restrained and elegant with the thin waterfall bars. The 42-48's received a more garish and heavily chromed grill to compete with the Cadillac egg crate grills. But it can't be bad since I am the proud owner of a 48 as well. However, I have pondered how to update, but not degrade the character of the car. Perhaps if the horizontal bars in the lower grill were pained out black, making the vertical bars stand out. Or if the grill surround were painted body color. Wonder if a set of Corvette teeth would fit in the lower grill space, or if that would violate the sanctity of Lincoln design? Might not then have to pay so much for re-chroming. Abe
  9. OD in gear lamp is in the speedometer. Looks like another high beam indicator. A wire from the OD relay on the engine side of the fire wall runs the lamp. Check to see if yours is plugged in. Abe
  10. After more than one shock, man that smarts, I took an old spark plug, connected high voltage plug wire to top, and clipped the base to ground. Start engine, and observe spark from safe distance. Also, if you have a clip-on timing light, you can see if each wire will make the timing light flash. Abe
  11. Just thinking, perhaps you could fab a plate or slot the hole in the frame to attach motor mount to engine so the engine would be 1 inch further back? Maybe you could sneak the rear end forward a bit? Are you using a column shift, or a floor shift? Don't recall ever seeing a BW overdrive with a floor shift located forward like stock. If the engine is moved rearward, might interfere with column shift levers. A good driveshaft shop should be able to replace propeller shaft with a longer shaft and weld a piece to lengthen torque tube. Maybe you have a Ford transmission? Converting to open driveshaft is also a possibility. I'm recalling that 1947 Ford trucks were open driveshaft. Abe
  12. Might try the aftermarket for Ford parts. Speedway has a nice disk brake kit that fits Lincoln. Lots of old timey Ford folks used Lincoln brakes and parts. Get wheel cylinders at most brake supply dealers. Abe
  13. V-12: I've been though with brake fluid from day one, but still had to replace a lot of plumbing, getting pretty good at bending steel tubing. One of my other vehicles is a tractor, so I use Valvoline tractor hydraulic fluid, get it at NAPA and doesn't smell or stain like tranny fluid. I found a 1960 top pump on e-bay that fits under the rear seat. Works great (after a rebuild) and makes more room under hood. I was able to rod out the old cylinders with a flexible speedo cable and a lot of flushing. Cleaned up the shafts with emory cloth. I also still like the electric window idea, Speedway has kits, and I'm thinking I can make the original switches work with a relay or two. Thanks for thinking of me. Abe
  14. I've had pretty good service on the V-12 from Central Cylinder Head in Portland close to the east end of the Ross Island bridge. They pulled my studs, did all the machining including custom work I asked for, and got parts for me. Ken Austin recommended them to me, and Ken knows more about flatheads than I'll ever learn. You should see his collection, his 41 Lincoln Continental Cabriolet is stunning.. Abe
  15. I've had a terrible time with lines and cylinders being full of solidified brake fluid. Some lines could be salvaged by rodding out with an old speedometer cable. Cylinders can be removed and worked manually until free. I use NAPA Valvoline Tractor Hydraulic Fluid. Doesn't stain like automatic transmission fluid and smells better. I'm also giving serious consideration to an electric lift kit for the windows, using original switches and a relay or two. Abe
  16. I've had trouble with the shift fork clamp being in the wrong place on the steering column. Might try adjusting. Abe
  17. That pump motor is pretty heavy duty. Might just work fine on 12 volts, but use a 25-50 watt resistor of approximately the same resistance of the motor windings if you are worried. Motor isn't on for very long, so I wouldn't worry about heating. My starter works just fine on 12-Volts, spins engine great. Our top / window pump couldn't be fixed, so I found a 1960 pump that goes under back seat, and uses 12 volts. I mounted a couple 12 volt relays under seat to operate from switch on dash. Seems to work OK. We use Napa tractor hydraulic fluid. I made a solid state 6 volt regulator for the instruments, but a 57-59 Ford instrument regulator will also work. We're running negative ground instead of positive, only potential problem is with capacitors in the radio front end. Get new ones and reverse polarity. Also Need to reverse the wire in the ammeter. Abe
  18. Someone in the dim past put 820-15 Denman's on my 48 LC, which look and fit pretty good, but have a terrible thump and no balance weights. So, your smaller size should fit. I really haven't driven enough to say how accurate the speedo is, but you should be able to find a different gear that plugs into the transmission at the cable end. I'm thinking of saving the tubed tires and wheels for show, and putting 16 X 8" wheels with 235-16 American WW radials for touring. Haven't yet figured how to make the stock hub caps with clips fit, or get plain caps and add a Lincoln logo. Maybe wire wheels? Abe
  19. Thanks, guys! I first lowered the rear end by supporting the rear of the car with jackstands under the frame ahead of the rear wheels. managed to slip a couple of 8" C clamps on both sides between the rear mount and frame, and when I tightened the clamps, everything moved into place so I could drop the bolts in. Of course, now I have to take the bolts out in order to slide the tranny to the side to get the clutch shaft into the receptacle on the transmission. We'll get it yet. Abe
  20. We're about ready to drop the rebuilt engine in the 48 LC, but first need to get the OD transmission bolted down. We got the tranny connected to the torque tube, but the transmission motor mount holes are about 3/4" too far forward to meet the holes in the frame. The rear spring shackles that locate the rear end are tilted toward the front, and the torque tube wants to go to the top of the tunnel. I was thinking maybe a logging chain and a come-along to pull the assembly back. Surely this has been encountered before. What's the best way to fix? Thanks Abe
  21. I used two 1/2" eyes with nuts and washers underneath the plate to keep from pulling through. That way I could slip the chain between the hooks and grab a link or two fore and aft with cherry picker as needed to balance. I pulled up in front a bit more than back. V-12 is heaavy. I pulled from front, (and put a crease in license plate) but some of us go over the fender. Abe
  22. I also made a plate to bolt to intake manifold surface of block. Used old gasket to locate 3 holes on each side, drilled and tapped 1/2" holes for two large size Home Depot screw eyes and a ft of chain, put washers and nuts on the bottom. Works pretty good. Abe
  23. Phil: Should be a good deal for someone. I like the understated 41 grill better than my 48, which needs re-chroming, as well as fixing holes in rocker panel, rust on fender corners, and engine still on the floor. Abe
  24. Found this on my local Portland site. I have not seen car, but it looks nicer than mine. http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/5348390602.html
  25. I ordered one, should know by end of next week. Abe
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