bclement

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About bclement

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    Expert in Training
  • Birthday 09/10/1975

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  1. I know I've got good oil circulation, even through the filter....which is more important that pressure to a point. I think I'm going to hit it with some MMO and will give you an update this evening if it stops raining. Down here we only have sand and salt air.....no dust, especially since it's been raining. I've sourced new champion spark plugs from NAPA can't find an over the counter (as in go get it today plug wires), any thoughts on that? Probably should have thought about that before today! As you can see from the pictures, this is one 'salty dog' and there is enough debris I need to blow and suck out under the hood to keep me busy all morning. I just tremble at the thought of running the carb with no air cleaner. So I've got to get that solved too.
  2. Oh by the way, any thoughts on the Marvel Mystery Oil "just 'cause"? I don't know when the last time this thing was humming so just to assist in the clean/lubrication process?
  3. You say 'very important'......I say 'uh oh' as mine is plugged at the intake. I found new off the shelf plugs in stock at NAPA. Any over the counter solution for plug wires? I hate to think about running and driving the car with the top of the carb open, so I'm going to have to find at least a temporary breathability solution. I was going to try and do the old clean it all out with kerosene but I'm even sure where to buy kerosene here on the beach. I'm think gasoline would not be a good idea.
  4. I did bearings and seals all the way around and got everything from Alan Whelihan. Cheaper than Boos. He's got a parts and price list on the LZOC sources page.
  5. Go Bucks, Fork the Flyers!! Coil, Dizzy, and points are good to go rebuilt....plugs and plug wires are a good next step. 12 vs 6, I kinda agree my '35 Ford is still 6 but with an alternator. Because it's a wiring disaster and I haven't traced exactly everything down I don't want to go tugging on things just yet. The pan had been dropped and cleaned and the oil system flushed.....but with no gauge it's an unknown. Compression check seemed good on all cylinders and I've got good coolant circulation, all the hoses get hot? It starts hard and gets to warm quick and stinks to high heaven. I've lubed everything I can think of to lube to include the rear-end. I think there must be carb issues. The LZ carb was not the carb that was originally on this engine but was a 'rebuilt' carb that came of another engine. Oh by the way any tips for rehabbing an air cleaner? The car will NOT run with the air cleaner installed.
  6. Thanks Abe. I forgot to mention that sometime ago the or one of the POs converted over for 12V. There are all kinds of strange step ups and step downs mount everywhere under the hood. To keep from trying to fish all that out the car is basically 'hotwired' to start and run. No gauges at this point (but I was going to tackle them one by one), no dome light, and no back seat cigar lighters for right now. As I was starting the car to pull it back in the garage after sufficiently POing the neighbors I came to the realization that 1.) my dash choke knob does nothing, so I don't at the moment have the benefit of choke (without laying on my side under the dash pulling the linkage) 2.) The car will not continue running with the air cleaner attached (plan on cleaning that all up first thing today) Will keep you posted on the progress if I get any today. P.S. Was think about the Marvel Mystery Oil trick just for GP
  7. So.....The old guy after being dormant for an unknown period is alive once again, but barely. Where do I start? '41 Continental, with Heck only know what for a semi-functioning V-12, correct Zephyr carb, just enough wiring to make it start and everything else disconnected to prevent a fire. A little valve noise, but not much. The fuel system is good, brakes all done, coolant circulating. What gentle next steps do I need to look at? Brad
  8. Makes you wonder....I've heard a lot of horror stories about the integrity of the old aluminum cast parts.
  9. Very cool story! That seems to jive with what I've found out too. Rumor has it that the Edelbrocks are pre-1950, and then they just stopped. No idea how many they made, but your drag application makes perfect sense. By that time most people were pulling the V12s out of the old Lincolns and switching to V8s. Wouldlove to see the pictures of yours if you still have some! Brad
  10. What size/brand are they? I don't know what the difference if any there is between a 40 and 41 steel rim?
  11. What is the radial size? When I called Coker they didn't have anything in stock that would work without tubes. I'm not sure if tubes or no tubes make a difference does it?
  12. "Radials with tubes? Seems it can be hard to seal them well on older wheels." My understanding is that with a 16" rim and that tall of a tire, tubes are necessary, bias or radial either way. My plan, was to have the rims blasted and powder coated before putting the new rubber on there....just seems like a good idea. From $$ radials aren't that much more for a correct size (staying with 16"), but now I'm beginning to wonder about other suspension issues with a stiffer tire?
  13. So my tires are a little scary.....as in you can check the air by looking through the cracks! I was considering going with a tube-less radial vs the original bias ply. My 35 coupe has bias and they do ok, but. Here in Florida we are moving into rainy season and roadway oil slick is a problem for even modern cars! The car currently has what I believe to be original Lester 7.00x16 with tube. Are there any know issue with putting radials on original rims? Are they beefy enough for a stiffer tire? What would be the correct or close enough radial size? Thanks Brad
  14. Ok, I apologize if this is a ramble or just dumb questions from a newbie. If the only way to tell the correct engine year is by cylinder bore and other things attached, ie aluminum heads, intakes, carburetors, air cleaners, heating systems, etc., how do I really know what I've got in my car? In my instance, the PO is not available to ask these questions, and so what's been done and for what reason may forever remain a mystery. Additionally, my car ('41 Continental Coupe) did not seem to come with either an overdrive transmission or a Columbia rear end, which if I read correctly seems odd. It could have and either or both could have been removed. Not that I care significantly about date correctness or 'data plate' build specs, how do I know what the original configuration could have been or really even begin to decipher what it is that I've got or why the PO thought that was the way to go? I appreciate any and all feedback, good or bad. You can't possibly hurt my feelings, I appreciate hearing from anybody. Thanks Brad
  15. Extremely impressive transformation! Well done, Sir!