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bclement

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About bclement

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    Expert in Training
  • Birthday 09/10/1975

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  1. Men, Women, Folks, I recently went back down the path of restoration of a '41 Continental convertible. Many of you have been a tremendous help. Parts are limited as is to be expected. I have Lincoln parts I know I won't need and would like to see get out of my way!!! I am a simple garage mechanic that grew up restoring cars with my father and grandfather in the 80's and 90's.........just for the joy of it and maybe going to a carshow. How did we let this get out of control. 'Rotisserie' restorations? Million dollar drunken auctions? This entire market rests on the shoulders of peop
  2. Hello Folks I hope all are safe and doing well. In recent days I've been taking inventory of my new project and extra parts I have on hand. I know parts are sometimes hard to come by, in part to low production numbers but also because over the years some folks have tended to 'hoard' things. I don't want to be one of the hoarders. While I'm just beginning my restoration I'm not sure exactly what I have that is extra.......but it's clear I'm going to have extra. Also, I'm missing some things that I'm going to need. For starters, a brake light assembly, a spare tire surround, the cen
  3. Do the top go down? Why yes it does!! Once again, thanks for all the help from the 'Level 4 Lincoln Wizards' on this forum. Without you all, projects like these wouldn't be worth attempting! Brad Clement
  4. So, as this will be an ongoing project please know there is NO electric power to anything. The '41 Continental has an electro-mechanical top control. I can see the worm gears....though not clearly. I'd like to put the top down manually if possible, but I presume I'll need full access to the actuators on both sides. Perhaps easier said than done. If manually lowering the top is even possible. If not......GULP!.....I could disassemble and remove the top bows. Any advise or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Brad
  5. VICTORY!! Thanks for all the inputs. When you have looked, studied, and touched every piece and part........it's always the dumbest little thing! As it turns out, it was the wrong 'C' clip at the top of the shaft that would not allow the shaft any travel inside the shift tube. Clearly, the previous owner never drove it in 2nd or 3rd gear! Probably part of the reason it stayed parked for so long!
  6. Tom 'De-sliming' now with MMO! Definitely taking pictures and Amen to the exploded parts diagrams being of little to no help. Thanks Brad
  7. It was the very same! Good solid car and mostly a pain-free experience! In a lot of ways easier than the back and forth haggling that takes place with uninformed owners! At least in this transaction I didn't have to negotiate both sides of the sale!!
  8. Interesting points. The last '41 I owned had what looked like swivel lock covers that swung out of the way to reveal the square mechanism. I always accessed them from behind and the mechanism worked just fine..? My new '41 is missing both sides and just has exterior holes but the mechanism behind is intact and functioning. I didn't ever think it would be a problem sourcing replacements or repops? I assumed the all '41 Lincolns used the same mechanisms and thus covers. Brad
  9. The 'New Princess' in her temporary home........temporary obviously being a 'non-moving' target at this point.
  10. New project, many MANY things to tackle!! Today's question is this......How or what would cause the shifter tube mechanism to freeze in the back position? Effectively, I have reverse and first gears. I detached the linkages at the transmission, and can move into and out of all gears, but the shifter won't move forward to get to second and third? I took the steering wheel off to see what I could see....not much. Then I thought I'd punch the pin out to pull the shift lever, except it turns out it isn't a pin! It's spring loaded on the top and bottom?! How does this thing work or go together or b
  11. I know I've got good oil circulation, even through the filter....which is more important that pressure to a point. I think I'm going to hit it with some MMO and will give you an update this evening if it stops raining. Down here we only have sand and salt air.....no dust, especially since it's been raining. I've sourced new champion spark plugs from NAPA can't find an over the counter (as in go get it today plug wires), any thoughts on that? Probably should have thought about that before today! As you can see from the pictures, this is one 'salty dog' and there is enough debris I need to blow
  12. Oh by the way, any thoughts on the Marvel Mystery Oil "just 'cause"? I don't know when the last time this thing was humming so just to assist in the clean/lubrication process?
  13. You say 'very important'......I say 'uh oh' as mine is plugged at the intake. I found new off the shelf plugs in stock at NAPA. Any over the counter solution for plug wires? I hate to think about running and driving the car with the top of the carb open, so I'm going to have to find at least a temporary breathability solution. I was going to try and do the old clean it all out with kerosene but I'm even sure where to buy kerosene here on the beach. I'm think gasoline would not be a good idea.
  14. I did bearings and seals all the way around and got everything from Alan Whelihan. Cheaper than Boos. He's got a parts and price list on the LZOC sources page.
  15. Go Bucks, Fork the Flyers!! Coil, Dizzy, and points are good to go rebuilt....plugs and plug wires are a good next step. 12 vs 6, I kinda agree my '35 Ford is still 6 but with an alternator. Because it's a wiring disaster and I haven't traced exactly everything down I don't want to go tugging on things just yet. The pan had been dropped and cleaned and the oil system flushed.....but with no gauge it's an unknown. Compression check seemed good on all cylinders and I've got good coolant circulation, all the hoses get hot? It starts hard and gets to warm quick and stinks to high heaven. I've lube
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