Rooster

OK to be corrected, but sure Buick did not have 19" wheels. In 1929 they were 20" and then in 1930 went to 18". Maybe Marquette ?

To replace the rivets I ground off the head of one rivet. Punched it inward and tapped it out 3/8". As I recall I think the original rivet was 5/16" ? If it was 1/4" then tap out 5/16" Then screw in a button head. I did this one by one both sides of the centre housing. Doing it this way makes sure that it all goes back together easily. Then take all the screws out, separate the axle tubes from the centre. Clean it all up and then I used a Loctite product smeared on the inner faces and began to replace the button head screws one by one. Put Loctite thread sealer on the screw threads and tighten and use a nyloc nut on the inside. I can't remember the length of the screw but it only needs enough thread to go into the nylon of the nut. Axle housing now nice and tight with no leaks. Obviously the differential needs to completely dismantled for this procedure. I took some photos, but since the website upgrade I don't know how to add then now.

Transmission , clutch yes. Differential, brakes, suspension , front end, steering, wheels --- no.

If you feel motivated, this is what I did to mine to solve the problem. When I was building the car I could foresee this was going to be a problem. So I put the axle in a lathe and machined the area where the felt seal runs. You only need to take off a small amount of metal. Then retrofitted a neoprene lip seal into the housing and the result no leaks at all. I also took the complete diff housing apart by removing the rivets one by one and threading the hole to take a mushroom allen socket head bolt. Smeared the housing faces with Loctite and rebuilt it all with new bolts not rivets ( with nyloc nuts and loctite on the threads ) 22 years on and no leaks. By the way --- Hello Bill

I wouldn't expect anyone in Australia would buy it at current exchange rates. Our dollar has taken a dive in recent times. Even parts are now expensive for us --- and the shipping rates, well they just keep skyrocketing.

Due to necessity during the Depression and after WW2 it was a common occurence to convert a family car and turn it into a ute ( pick up ) ---- hence the term we use here -- it's been "uted" These conversions were common practice especially on farms. My 1929 tourer suffered the same fate. Post WW2 was a time of austerity in regard to petrol supplies and access to new vehicles. Farmers did whatever was necessary to keep the farm operational so the family car often got the chop. My current 1934 project was at one stage a 4 door sedan and it was converted and used on a wheat and sheep farm for years until it finally clapped out.

I like it. :cool: Won't be something I could afford to buy but would be good to see it on the road ----- if it ever happens.

Thanks for the offer Willie. I'm looking at a set on Evilbay, comes with rings although I don't need them. Shipping is fair. The difference between the ring & pinion shipping and these are that the R&P could fit into a flat rate box up to 20 pounds for a reasonable set price. A set of 8 pistons and packaging won't, hence the higher price. Carmen Faso, do they have a website ?

That's a pretty good price. Although their shipping quote is on the high side for me.

Thanks Willie. Yes, the Egge don't get a good reputation over there that's why I have posted here. There are companies called Sealed Power / Federal Mogul and Engine Tech that do pistons but I can't seem to get any feedback on those. The lower compression Egge probably would go OK with our 91 RON fuel here. We can get up to 98 RON but it's more expensive and not readily available. As for the weight variation ---- I intend to get it all balanced so those variances could be addressed at that time ?

I'm going to rebuild a 401 engine. Are there any places out there that would possibly still have any NOS Buick pistons on the shelf ? There are aftermarket pistons available but they seem to have some apparent questionable quality.

How about starting another topic on your 55 disaster story Peter.

Thanks for the reply Marv. I managed to get a "good" used one locally so I'm going to fit it up and see how it goes. If no good then I'll PM you.

I need the starter contact switch that mounts on top of unit and activated by foot lever. NOS or re-manufactured please. Fits 1929 and 1930, maybe others that I'm not aware of.

That would the primer guide coat I would say. When you block the primer back the black paint stays in the low spots and you can see where it needs to be filled again and gives you an idea on how flat your job surface is. It most likely has to be done several times for show paint surface. If it was local to me I'd probably take it on for that price. But shipping / red tape / currency exchange would put it 3 X the asking price for me.

A long shot I know, but does anybody have or know of an available Bendstens adaptor kit to fit up a T700r4 to a 401 / 425 Nailhead engine. I'm only interested in this make. I got burnt buying another manufacture.

My opinion for what it's worth ----- I would ditch them and put on a set of heavy duty gas charged shocks. Any old heavy Buick will ride and corner so much better.

A big problem for us here is that US suppliers tend to ship a small part in a large box and fill up the space with packing material. It adds to our cost big time especially if they don't utilize USPS flat rate boxes.

He lives out in the sticks

Brian, when we were at the Buick Nationals QLD 2008, there was a chrome plater who had a trade stand there with examples of their work. A '55 Buick on display had a set of rechromed tail lights done by them. A truly superb job. Can't remember their name, Dennis might know or one of the QLD members.

Maybe it just needs the bands adjusting ? An easy enough job once the trans is out. Do the seals at the same time.

That's the way I would have done it. Make sure they put some high strength Loctite threadlocker on the bolt / nut threads ( and remove any oil contaminants beforehand with acetone or use the proper Loctite prep )

Any particular reason you would go used plugs and that particular make ?

Every time I replace a tube I coat it ( and the inside of the tyre ) with French chalk. It helps to resist chaffing between the two. It you have no French chalk you can always smuggle the wife's talcum powder.

I didn't think it would last long at that price.