Rooster

Yes, I think you're right on the money there.

OK, so we've got from $22 -30,000 as a start. Anybody else game to come in and offer an opinion.

Bryan , don't think I know of a 1929 - 70 model ?

That's a nice looking car --- love the colour too.

Thanks John. Probably what I should have said --- sold from the ( factory ) Markl buick dealer to private collection. Are you game to have a stab at value ? I'm with you also, no point in having a car if you can't drive it rain or shine. But every one to their own. One think I forgot to mention, there is a decal on the driver door from 1963 says -- next service due at 50 miles.

Trying to help out a fellow club member here. He is an elderly fellow that had a well known Buick collection here in Australia. Now getting older and health deteriorating he has sold off most of his collection. He has one left that is for sale but can't put a value on it. His memory is fading and he can't remember how much he paid for it some 25 years ago or so. The Buick is a 1958 model 66-R Century 2 door hardtop, 8110 built. He bought it at Carlisle swap meet from a dealer who was selling it from the original estate. The original owner bought it direct from the factory and it supposedly went straight into a private collection. It was sold at Carlisle with 72 miles on the odometer. It now has 149 miles on it. The car has no power steering, power windows or power seats apparently ordered that way by the original owner ? It has the Kelsey Hayes wire wheels with Coker cross ply tires , but I suspect these are not original. It has the original exhaust stamped Nov 1957. Even though the car has not seen much bitumen , the car has suffered very minor wear and tear over the years eg. there might be a belt buckle scatch on the paint and some section of white upholstery are slightly darkened by finger marks etc. There are a dozen or so paint chips that was caused by spilt brake fluid, minor but they are there. I told him the market will be different here than in the US / Canada, so just asking for your comments on what it may be worth. Thanks.

Has to be a bargain at that price.

It sounds like you might have the wrong lifters and / or pushrods. Had a similar problem with a 1955 264 engine. As I recall the engine parts supplier sent lifters from a 1956 which are shorter in length than the correct 1955 ones. Same problem, valves not opening fully and backfiring through the carb.

I nominate Sir Pete Phillips for the Buickman Award :cool:

How's the search going mate ?? I like these models a lot and keen to know if you've found something yet. :cool:

Here you go Ben.

Stuart Syme --- aka 50jetback did an article for Buick Bugle not that long ago regarding Australian bodied 34 / 35 Buicks. And Brian, I know where there is a 34 pickup with no sidemounts.

I'm not quite sure where you mean by the underside of the water jacket ? A few drops leaking every minute wouldn't seem to me to be the problem with your overheating. If your oil is white then copious amounts of water have got into the oil, or the oil hasn't been changed for a long time and those few drops a minute have added up. Although if it's driven regularly then a small amount of water should evaporate out of the oil with heat. Same as what happens with condensation in oil pan in cold weather after a long drive. The core ( welsh ) plugs need to be replaced there's no 2nd rate attempt here. If there are cracks in the block / head they can only be repaired by welding or metal stitching. If you want the car to be a driver in all weather conditions and for piece of mind then your engine may well have to come out.

I'm more inclined to diagnose a water jacket crack somewhere inside the block. I once had a 1929 head crack into the rocker chamber where water mixed with the oil. I would fill it up with water, start it and bring it up to temperature. Check to see if there are any bubbles inside the radiator top tank. This a sure sign of head gasket or cracked head. Check to see if there is any steam coming out the exhaust , another sign of head issues. Take the tappet cover off with engine running and check to see if there are no cracks and water seepage there. If all that is good then it would spell an engine strip down and get the head and block pressure tested. Obviously one would eliminate potential causes one by one , but it might mean for peace of mind a strip down. If so just take the head off and get that done first before diving into pulling the engine. Good Luck.

Do a compression test on each cylinder. A low singular piston result ( or 2 adjacent bores ) will point to head gasket. Take the spark plugs out and inspect for any moisture on the electrode. Get a torch ( flashlight ) with a strong pencil beam and turn engine to TDC on each piston have a look down the bore to see if any moisture / rust there. This will identify if any water has been in there. That will be head gasket gone. A head gasket can go at any speed. It's probably been ready to fail. Any problems before with overheating ? If so I would take the radiator out and have the top tank taken off and core rodded out. If it's a honeycomb core then it will need specialist treatment.

That Buick 3800 engine ( EFI ) was used in our local GM Holden model Commodore 1998 - 2005. Some taxi cabs were reputed to get 500,000 - 600,000 + Kms on those engines ( approx - 350,000 miles with regular oil changes and running on LPG ) The engine evolved over the years to be still used up until a couple of years ago.

1. Have you bought anything yet ? 2. Who won the Vegemite taste test ?

Where are you blokes and what's happening ??

It seems like this engine needs to be pulled down and inspected before going any further.

If you need the money or lack dry storage then sell it. If not, then keep it and enjoy.

Mate, We want photos of the Vegemite eating contest at breakfast time.

Just to confirm what's already said. Close to the tank away from the exhaust. Definate plus to have inline filter on the tank side of the pump. Speaking from experience, this modification will be one of the best you could do, takes away all stress from vapour lock. Good for priming carb after long periods of inactivity also.

Don't take any prisoners with that VEGEMITE Stuart. Tell them they need to harden up if they screw their face up after tasting it.

It's commendable of you for taking the time and committment by helping out a fellow Buick enthusiast overseas. :cool: We really are behind the 8 ball sometimes when it comes to sourcing spares for our cars. I'm sure the buyer will appreciate your efforts.

You would think a reproduced part would be a direct fit. It's been a long time since mine was out, I assume you're saying that .9" is not deep enough to hold the outer cable sheath ?