Rooster

Can you move the car around so that the front crossmember is underneath a STRONG truss in your workshop roof ? If so, get a piece of 4X4 timber or comparable strength steel pipe or square tube and cut it so that if fits tightly between the chassis rail and the truss. Then you will be able to do the procedure I outlined. I've used the steel truss in my workshop to do similar jobs before including pulling and re-fitting heavy Buick engines.

Thanks mate. :cool: I rang him and left a message. He may have gone away for the Easter break but I'm quite sure he'll take them. I'll e-mail you when he gets back to me. Did you get any sympathy from Rita with the wasp bite ?? :D Cheers.

On another note..I find it neat that we are both from Perth and both have the beautiful '54 76R. Yes, who would have thought that !! Now, if only both our names were Bob. I didn't pick up on the fact the engine was out until I re-read your post. Oh well, at least somebody can use the info if their engine is still in.

1. Jack up the front of the car until the wheels are well off the ground ( at least 4 inches ) and put jack stands under the chassis. 2. Take off wheel covers and unbolt and remove wheels 3. Unbolt top and bottom shock mounts and take out the shock. 4. Unbolt sway bar links top and bottom and remove. 5. Put a hydraulic floor jack under the lower wishbone where the bottom shock mounts are : jack up until the wishbone just starts to move and stop. 6. Undo the nut on the lower outer suspension pin. 7. Unscrew the suspension pin. It will be tight so an air driven rattle gun helps a lot here. 8. Lower the jack SLOWLY and the spring will come down. You may have to prise it out with a tyre lever when it fully extends. When you put it together make sure the suspension pin is well greased and the grease hole in the middle is not clogged. Don't forget to put the rubber grommets back in. If fitting new springs you may have to give them some a helping hand going back in by tapping with a hammer and block of wood. Check the top rubber mounting bush for wear / compression.

Yes I did. Danny got them for me thanks.

The ad is a bit confusing. The fine print says the 55 is located in the USA, yet the seller is in Australia. Scam ?? No way would you buy this car in Australia for $799 !! :eek:

Brian, what about a mob called ENZED. Do they exist over there ? There're a mobile hose manufacturer. I also would investigate the idea of rubbing off, if possible , the red / white markings with thinners / acetone etc and then I'd work some rubber grease ino the lines.

Word from the Georgia Buick Farm is that Mr. Earl has been very busy of late. In the mean time I thought I'd ask the question again if anyone has a full set ( one 4 gang and 3 singles ) of very good power window switches and bakelite / wire housings for 1954 and most likely up until the late 50s ? You never know someone here might have them tucked away in a box . We may just save Mr. Earl from the ravages of rats , scorpions , snakes, spiders, wasps or whatever else resides in Georgian parts car environs.

I think the seller was on drugs with the first listed price :confused: then when he came to, changed it to the current price. Still too much money. I tried to convince one of our members to make a more "balanced" offer and go out and strip it of all valuable parts. But he seems not interested in doing that.

Thanks Danny , appreciate that. What am I up to ? Looking for another project. Ken.

Could they be made in a lathe ? I wouldn't think so. The thread appears to be some sort of oddball type that was probably stamped rather than screw cut. Similar to the threads on front end lower outer pins / bushes of the 40s - 50s. Thread would be much stronger than the screw cut type because of the weight / forces involved. The internal thread of the bush is rather shallow compared to the pin.

Good question Grant. Holden body is what I'm primarily after, but Fisher measurements also would be handy, even to just compare differences. Ken.

Can someone with a series 40 sedan do me a favour please. I would like to know the measurement across the width of the front cowl where the vertical section of the hood sits ( just where the hood belt line chrome trim sits ) Also need from bottom of front door to top of roof. Thanks. Ken.

As you can see, my '54 Roadmaster is named IRENE. When I bought her off Mr. Earl I never did ask him why he named her that ??

On behalf of a fellow Buick collector I am seeking a full set of power window switches for 1954 year models ( other later years of the 50s will probably be the same ? ) They must be in good working condition and have very nice chrome and come with the rear bakelite housing and wires. Thanks.

Smokin' too much weed me thinks. :eek:

Hope this works.

Just got back from having a look at the engine / trans. It's located under a dusty tarpaulin in a tight spot for identifying numbers etc. This is what I was able to get off it. Head casting number 1196914 Engine block casting number near distributor B1664705 10 Engine number was rusty and dusty and the best I could read was 5Y122292 ?? The engine has not been running for the best part of 15 -20 years maybe and has no carburettor or air cleaner, but does have distributor, power steering pump and alternator ( original ?? ) Any thoughts to year of manufacture ? I'm trying to attach some photos, but they are too big so I'm trying to learn how.

Thanks all. I'm going to have a look at a 401 engine and trans for sale and I wanted to arm myself with information before I go.

Is there a physical difference between the Dynaflow and the Super Turbine 400 ? The ST400 , would that be the forerunner to the Turbo Hydramatic 400 , if so are the bolt patterns the same ?

With the introduction of open drive in 1961 to when the Turbo 350 / 400 autos were started , was there only one type of transmission used eg. Dynaflow ?

Fellow Buick enthusiast is looking for the rubber protector strip for the Boattail front bumper in excellent or NOS condition. Are there any leads on where he may aquire it please.

Thanks Bob.

A Buick owner here is having trouble re-assembling the horn button assembly on the steering wheel. Does anybody have access to a good quality exploded diagram of how all the bits go together please.

All the best from me too.