Rooster

"What will happen to the 1954 Landau" ? Maybe Mr. Earl will buy it !! :cool:

41Super , Did you have to enlarge the existing holes in the frame to get the two pipes through ?

Stop bragging Danny, you only got the hot weather after we finished with it and sent it your way. :D Dave, all you need are your Speedos , sunscreen lotion and a set of dark glasses so no one can see your wandering eyes. :cool: I can take you to beaches where you won't need the Speedos. :eek:

Not questioning your ability , but are you sure the numbers are the same ? I had difficulty confirming the numbers on my 1954 engine block. It was hard to determine between a 1 and 7, depending on the angle of the punch and the force applied by the hammer. I'm still not sure if we got the original numbers off it. But being a chassis number then that would be on an aluminium plate on your car right ?

Bryan, I think you just chewed up your 4 hour Buick quota with that post. A good read , makes a lot of sense. Enjoy now , you're a long time dead !

Adam , where in Australia are you ? The Buick Club of Australia is a great club with members willing to help you out with whatever assistance may be required with your car. I encourage you to join up. Let me know what state you're in and I can point you in the right direction. Did you buy that '49 out of Perth ?

That picture of the Buick Barn under snow is absolutely idylic --- well it is to us here Down Under who never get snow. Merry Xmas to everyone and remember we get it a day before you.

The V belt pulley actually bolts onto the CAM shaft. There is no crankshaft pulley.

It would make a great restoration project. :eek: Well I did start out with less than that when re-building my Model 25 tourer.

I got a pair of polyurethane sway bar bushes from Energy Suspension. They fit straight in. Comes with their own new bracket with holes pre-drilled. They are can be grease lubricated via the nipple. They work great. Measure the diameter of your sway bar correctly before ordering. I can't remember the exact diameter but it's ? / 16" , maybe 11/16" ?? I also fitted a set of heavy duty GAS charged shocks ( on the rear as well ) and the car rides and corners beautiful.

I'm sure they can with the correct hubs.

I'll go halves with you Reatta Man. Maybe we can then call it the Cheetahmobile ?? :D

Good on yer mate, you deserve it. BTW folks, Willie was responsible for scouring the local Texan wrecking yards ( several times ) for a suitable ring and pinion for Irene. He even cleaned them up and sent USPS to Down Under. How's that for service. :cool:

If it's 121" then the frame is a Master ( also available 129" in Master configuration. Standard is 116" ) Can't confirm the numbers.

Willie to the rescue again !! Someone nominate him for the Buick Man award : well I will.

Yes, that's what I would be doing --- remove the core and take it to a PRO radiator shop. They can now test the core by finding out what the flow through the tubes is like. They can then either immerse it overnight in a chemical solution to release all the crud build-up inside. Or they will take off one of the tanks and rod the tubes out. You would be amazed how much build-up there can be , even with modern radiators using ethylene glycol anti freeze.

Very impressive videos on their site. Thanks for the info Bob.

Ring Patrick in NSW he should have one. 02 475 87619

Watch out Bill --- you're a marked man !! :eek:

Pirate is correct that a 12V system without a resistor will burn out the points ( and eventually the coil will cook ) But I think a 12V system with a resistor reduces the voltage down to about 8 Volts, therefore a 6 V coil will NOT work. Your plug fouling could be a number of things 1. wrong grade of plug 2. worn rings and / or valve seats 3. running rich ---- wrong jets, float level too high, or most likely the automatic choke is stuck on.

I agree with Bighdog. Bought parts from both Fatsco and Dave Edwards ( Antique Automatic Transmission Parts ) and they both are very helpful with advice and communication. They offer Paypal as well which was a very easy transaction for me. Highly recommended.

Yes, cut the existing line and fit pump. It will push fuel through the mechanical pump no problems. The electric pump may have a little metal filter on it. I like to fit an extra plastic aftermarket one between pump and tank. The electric pump is also great for priming the carb for starting after sitting for long periods.

I had big problems with my 1929 in the early days with vapour locking. I tried all sorts of remedies but the only successful one was to fit an electric fuel pump. Mount it close to the fuel tank in the existing line. When you feel the engine dying simply turn on the switch to clear the vapour then turn off and revert back to mechanical pump ( until it happens again )

Brian, I know Dennis McGavigan and Tony Howe got together and made their own.

Thanks Leif. The bush is AI in your schematic. I tried to get it off with a socket ratchet handle and long bar but it would not budge. Even tried a rattle gun with the same result. If it is definately screwed in then I will have to apply some heat and try again. She is certainly tight after 55 years.