Rooster

Then I'd say your pump needs a re-build. You could try and replace the packing gland material but only if the shaft is serviceable. If it's scored badly then it will need to be replaced.

Don't know about the '28 , but my 1929 pump has a big brass nut over the shaft that screws into the housing to expand the packing gland inside the shaft housing. If it's got one try turning it half a turn at a time clockwise only until the dripping stops. Compressing it too tight will put undue pressure on the shaft causing it to wear out prematurely and could cause problems down the line eg. cam timing cog. Has the pump got a grease fitting attached ? If so, pump some grease into it.

Condolences from down under Lamar.

Why not. :cool: It's something different and will certainly stand out from the crowd. Most owners here will probably be wanting an original colour, but I'm like you. I like to experiment with colours " to be a bit different " Go for it if you like it. But just be aware that once it's on, then it's $$$$$ to get it changed. Suggest getting some small cans of paint mixed up and try painting a spare panel in your scheme of choice.

??? Ask Mr. Earl. He was in charge of her before I got my wicked way with her.

I know someone else who got caught like that. Had to buy another set of lifters. Had all the symptoms you describe here. I don't know the answer to the pushrod question, but I'd like to know myself.

There was an electric motor conversion posted here some time ago by member progoofoff ( I think that's how it's spelt ) with using a 1955-56 Chev motor as a replacement. Simple conversion. I'm going to do it to my 1954 if it gives me any more trouble. Send him a PM and ask if he will supply the details again here with the diagram. I wouldn't mind seeing it again also.

Well done. I've got to do my 1954 soon.

Have you asked the seller if he will ship to Australia ? A lot of items state shipping to United States but if you ask the seller via Ebay to ship USPS to Australia , most of the time they will oblige. For a headlight switch USPS first class mail international would be the cheapest because I'm sure it would be under 4 pounds. Anything over 4 pounds is a killer for us.

Get a hacksaw, undo the blade. Fit the blade through the bush hole and re-connect the hacksaw frame to the blade. Hold the king pin arm in a vice and cut through the wall of the bronze bush longways until you cut through to the metal then stop. Take off hacksaw, the bush should then drive out with drift and hammer while still in the vice.

Actually the truth be known, there are no lights in there --- yet. The illumination is from my camera flash The red reflectors are a cut out from the stuff we use at work to put on power poles to recognize the existence of a fire hydrant at night. The port holes catch attention at night with the headlights from other cars. They also work quite well during the day with the sun shining onto them. Was going to put some LEDs in there as well but haven't got around to that at this point.

That's one helluva bewdyful motor car. :cool: Someone is going to be very happy with that.

How's this for "The Roadmaster" portholes

Thanks for the clarification Dave. The one we are looking for is the left side. We discussed whether the left and right were the same and upon inspection reckoned that both looked the same. Maybe it's just the part number is different ?? Interested in a left or right if available. Thanks. Ken.

Thankyou for going to the effort Ray. But unfortunately the one you have does not match 100% with the set we have. The shape looks right but the ribs are not the same. What model are your's off ? Thanks again. Ken.

Need a trunk hinge off Roadmaster. Could be the same part that is used on other '36 models, not sure. Have a look at the photos please. Hinge needs to be in good shape , re-chrome OK as long as no deep pitting.

Thanks, Bob and Stuart. Yes, I can see the hooked manifold > exhaust pipe section matches the one I have.

Oops, yes you're right Pete. It is an exhaust manifold. It's definately Buick , got the casting emblem there as well as the numbers. I thought it might be early 30s because of the Marvel heat control set-up ? Sorry Grant , don't follow the rugby game so you can help as much as you like.

Inlet manifold off what seems to be an early straight 8 The section that bolts to the head comes in three pieces and the hot box section is cast Marvel.

Which website valuation guide (s) do you think gives the most accurate estimate for our older Buicks ? Ken. 1929 tourer 1954 hardtop

Buy a knurling tool Mark and you have it for good. You can get a cheap one off evilbay but it will proably be made in China , OK for aluminium though. I made a cover for my 1929 because those things are as rare as rocking horse **** here. Easy to turn up.

Ben my 1929 engine is exactly the same. It runs like a sick dog timed to the factory marks. I run a modern distributor so I don't have to stuff around with the advance levers. I would suggest you get the engine warmed up with the advance lever set to full and then just keep advancing the distributor until the engine runs sweet and leave it at that. It will mean a drive out on the road stopping and re-adjusting the dizzy one way or the other to get it just right. I don't know how far mine is advanced but it's a long way. If the engine pings or knocks under load up hill then just retard it a bit and then forget. Mine has run beautiful for years set like this and with a down draught carby gets very reasonable fuel economy too.

I would go and live in Tasmania, but Jill says NO

Me and Irene will be going. :D

685 pounds.