Rooster

Just so I understand this also. When the main cap is off , remove the old side cork seals. Fit cap and torque. Now there is the hole that Willie refers to. Stuff and pound the cotton + sealant into that until flush. Correct ? Does anybody have a piece of unused replacement main rope seal that they can measure for me please. I'll try to buy some locally.

Bargain.

Dash fascia with gauges -- no speedo. The amp gauge works, I have not tested the others. One face ( gas / water ) is very good the other is not far off with just some very minor rust pits around the "oil" needle area. The fascia is fair condition. There are some reflections in the glass as seen in the photos. I have the oil line if required but it's broken and not really serviceable. $50 + shipping from Australia. Economy shipping ( sea ) available. I can take out the gauges from the fascia for shipping if you don't want the fascia panel, it would most likely be cheaper also. PayPal only thanks.

Great show ! Thanks for posting. It's much more interesting than some of the reality TV show restoration garbage I've seen.

Our 1962 Wildcat is missing the fan shroud. I believe only the AC cars had these. Does anyone know of other years that will fit ? Better still, has anyone got a picture of one so we know what to look for. We may end up having to get something else and then modify it.

It looked too good to be true ??? Nice looking car.

My 1954 factory shop manual states series 70 ( Roadmaster ) takes a 15" X 6.5" wide rim. I would say the 1955 Roadmaster is probably the same ?

I agree Willie, it's some kind of anti-drain back valve. But what gets me is that it's in the radiator cooler return line, so to me really does nothing. If it was in the supply line to the cooler that would make sense because it would not allow fluid in the cooler tank to drain back into the trans oil pan and pour out somewhere. The device is very restrictive and I don't see the trans pump overcoming it much to have any too much effect on cooling. As you say, I will remove it and monitor. I did have the rear extension housing off to replace bushing and rear seal which was leaking bad. Could someone please confirm which oil line is the supply to cooler and which is return to assist in my decision making. Thanks.

I am underneath my son's '62 Wildcat fixing some Dynaflow oil leaks and I see this device connected in the oil cooler return line. It appears to be some kind of 1 way valve ? There is a flow direction stamped on it and to blow through it is VERY restrictive. Is this a factory part ? Doesn't look like it to me, so why would anyone connect this. I'm not keen to put it back in unless someone can give me definitive help on it's purpose. It's in the lower oil line, the one that connects to the rear extension housing. So please, what do you think.

Bendtsens do a trans adaptor kit for 322 ----- $675

We are thinking of putting a set of these 1980s faux rally wheel ( covers ) on an early 1960s rim. Anyone tried it, any reason why they would not fit ? I would think so but ---- the early 15" rim outer construction is my only concern where the spring clips would hold it on.

One difference, the 55 ring gear is bolted to the carrier and earlier years are rivetted.

Yep, couldn't agree more. The man went out of his way for me some years ago to help get my 1954 on the road. Nominated him for the Buickman award. As we would say down under ------ worth his weight in gold !!

Has anybody taken off the rear extension housing of the open driveshaft Dynaflow ? Are there any hiccups or hidden obstacles to be aware of.

Our 1962 Wildcat dynaflow has a worn driveshaft yoke bush. It sits up against the rear oil seal. Has anybody had any success in removing this without having to take the trans out or taking the rear section off ? I was thinking of making a small dent puller to get in between the bush and the output shaft. How tight is that bush in there ?

Looks like I am confusing the Pitman arm with the centre steering link. The Pitman arm bolts to this and the looseness is in the joint on the link. I thought the joint was on the end of and integral to the Pitman arm.

I find that the idler arm is relatively easy to source, but can't find any supplier yet that lists a Pitman arm. Are these unobtainium ?

Son has just bought a 1962 Wildcat and the car needs some front parts replaced. In particular the idler arm and the pitman arm end need changing. Can anyone recommend a source for parts please Are there other Buick years / models that will interchange. Maybe Chev and other GM will interchange also ?

Some Cadillac models will fit but not sure if the sedan will fit 2 door hardtop ?? Mr. Earl will know for sure.

Who are you paying $1400 to for shipping ?? There are local firms in Perth that could get it here much cheaper than that ( if you're not in a hurry )

Mick, have you tried Ralph Moore Autoglass here in Australia ? Does a Cadillac or any other interchange ? I know a Cadillac screen will fit my 1954.

I second using an Optima battery. I have them in both my Buicks , 6V and 12V Plenty of cranking power. They are fully sealed, not your typical lead acid battery. They can be mounted in any position without any leaks. They will also hold a charge longer than the typical lead acid battery and will not sulphate like a wet cell type. Also If you don't use the car for weeks / months on end, install an inline electric pump down near the fuel tank so you can prime the carb prior to starting. Both my cars have this and they start instantly.

The first thing I would re-paint are those green engine covers.

Well there you go. Learn something new every day. Thanks for the correction Dwight.

OK to be corrected, but sure Buick did not have 19" wheels. In 1929 they were 20" and then in 1930 went to 18". Maybe Marquette ?