carbking

Tom - I rarely disagree with your posts, but respectfully believe one should look carefully at the issues before blocking the cross-overs on a street car. When I built my ultra-high performance (really, too high performance for the street) Pontiac years ago, I listened to the internet and blocked the cross-overs. Even with a MANUAL transmission, and a carburetor with an automatic choke, this car was a challenge in town for about 30 minutes after start-up. I really got to practice my heel-and-toe, which I hadn't needed in 40 years since I sold the TR-3. I finally got tired of the stalling at every stop sign/stop light if the heel-and-toe wasn't perfect, threw in the towel, and installed a carb with a MANUAL choke. By working the choke until the engine was completely at operating temperature, problem solved (there is generally a work-around, if one tries). After complete warm-up, the engine idles nicely about 850~900 RPM, and can be driven without the use of the choke. Have had lots of customers with idle issues who had blocked the cross-overs. As far as I am concerned, this is a race-only modification. Of course, all of us have our own level of tolerance on driveability. Respectfully. Jon.

The spacer should help with hot starts, although if one changes the way one approaches hot starts, there is generally no problem without a spacer. Different method of starting a hot engine The spacer will probably not prevent fuel evaporation from the bowls, although it may take a few more hours for the fuel to evaporate totally. Spacers are sometimes added to add power at wide open throttle, although this power addition also depends on the type of manifold and the carburetor being used. The benefit is derived because the spacer effectively adds volume to the manifold plenum (again, depending on the manifold design). Generally no more than 1~2 percent gain is acquired. But for a racecar, every tenth of a horsepower is important. For other than high performance vehicles, the power gained at W.O.T. is often not worth the reduction in drivability at idle/low RPM.. Each individual has a different level of tolerance for drivability issues. Jon.

Ray - I like your post, but JRA has a Studebaker, which probably has, or had, a Penberthy. Jon.

Not as a bolt-on. Jon.

Ssssssssssssssssssssssssnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaakkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee oil! Think up a good story (with no guarantee) and put it on Ebay. There are lots of "true believers" out there! Jon,

No. Jon

WHICH new Zenith carburetor? Identification number??? Jon.

Then and Now Automotive manufactures their kits with ethanol-friendly diaphragms. I believe they are an advertiser on these forums. The Carter pump may be an issue. Carter had more than 50 percent of the carburetor business, but not a lot of the fuel pump business. Kit might be difficult. Jon.

In a single word: YES Jon

When starting hot, change your approach: Hot starting issues Jon.

Over the last 50 years, I have solved MANY "carburetor" problems, as well as hard starting ignition problems, on both 6v and 12v systems. The solution: first scrape off the 92 coats of engine paint that the "restorer" placed on one of the head bolts; then connect a heavy-duty jumper cable from the ground terminal of the battery to this particular head bolt. Paint is not a particularly efficient carrier of electric current. Jon.

As I no longer am working on carburetors, I am going through my personal collection of carburetor literature, and placing it for sale on my website. Currently, I am working with Carter literature. I have pulled my collection of Carter ->car make / car make->Carter interchanges, as well as virtually a complete collection of the Carter Performance Manuals. The interchanges will allow one to look up a Carter carburetor or part and then find the corresponding car make (i.e. Buick) part number for the carburetor or part. Conversely, one could look up a carburetor or part in the car make (i.e. Chevrolet) parts manual, and then find the corresponding Carter carburetor or part number. These interchanges are quite scarce, some I have only found the one in 50 years of collecting carburetor literature. These may be found at: Carter carburetor and parts interchanges The Carter Performance catalogs list Competition and high performance street carburetors, as well as excellent sections on original calibrations for Carter carburetors (jets, metering rods, etc.). Some of the manuals also include service procedures for the competition carburetors. These instructions were never published in the standard Carter loose-leaf Master catalogs. These may be found at: Carter Performance Catalogs ALL items are priced on the website, with a minimal description. To discuss exact contents of any, please call during normal telephone hours (see signature). Other items from my personal collection will be listed as time permits. Unless specific requests for other brands are requested, I will continue to work with the Carter literature. Jon

Of all the carburetors Carter ever produced, from about 1909 through the end in 1985, the BBR series is the ONLY series for Carter to ever publish a trouble-shooting guide: Carter BBR issues A gentleman much wiser than me once said: "baloney is great, if you have never tasted steak"! There is a long story that I have posted before here (hopefully, search will find it) about Plymouth using the much better W-1 (Chevrolet) carburetor in for a limited time in 1947. If not, and you wish to hear it, give me a call during normal telephone hours, I don't type as well as I once did. Jon.

The Chysler 6 is 242 CID. Stromberg made a carburetor SPECIFICALLY for the Chrysler application. The Strombergs listed in your other thread are made for 218 CID engines. Better than the Ball & Ball, but still far from optimal. Jon.

A couple of articles you may find interesting: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Buick_1937_1938_carburetors.htm http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Heatstovefabrication.htm Jon.

Not without doing several hours of research, and (opinion) not worth the time/cost. Both are the Ball & Ball design, which were some of the worst downdraft carburetors ever built by Carter, which Carter themselves freely admitted. So: (1) Be original (E6N1 or E6N2) OR if you plan to drive the car (2) Install a carburetor with a better record than the type BBR's such as the replacement Stromberg available in the day Jon

In the day, Marvel, Schebler, and Stromberg all offered replacement carburetors. I have never seen either of the specified Marvel or Stromberg carburetors. The Schebler model S is not either the least expensive or the most reliable carburetor in the world, but could be found. Of course, there are other carburetors that may be used. The Chrysler 70 has a cross-flange intake, so any modern carburetor would require a cross-flange adapter. The adapter adds to the distance the engine vacuum must pull fuel, thus making the carburetor less efficient. If used, one should be as thin as possible retaining the necessary rigidity. In general (there are exceptions), updraft carburetors do not care if the fuel supply is low pressure or gravity, as long as the carburetor is modified internally for the system chosen. The exceptions would be carburetors which have insufficient float buoyancy to support pressure (most, maybe all Johnson models would fit this category). When choosing an aftermarket carburetor, the terrain where the car will be primarily used should be considered. MANY of the cheaper aftermarket carburetors, especially the modern ones, have NO power circuit. Not the best choice if one lives in the Ozark region of Missouri. They do work pretty well in the Missouri bootheel or southern Illinois. Jon.

Google Luekenheimer. They were commonly used on hit or miss engines. Kingston may also have made one. Since Kiplinger offered to install other carburetors at the clients request, you really cannot be wrong as long as the carburetor you choose was available in the year of manufacture of your Kiplinger. Of the carburetors available in 1907, the Schebler model D was probably the cream of the crop. There is a picture of a Kiplinger on the internet with the Schebler model D installed. Jon.

The 1939 Chrysler 6 used a Carter E6N1 early, which was superseded mid-year with E6N2. The 1939 Chrysler 8 used a Stromberg AAV-2 (4-77). Jon.

There are a couple of 1907 Kiplinger books reproduced on the internet that I found using Google. One suggests that all three engine sizes in 1907 used a Kingston carburetor (and a Kingston is shown on the one auctioned by Sotheby's). However, the following is an except from the other manual: "We have eliminated the uncertain and troublesome carburetor, although we can attach any carburetor that may be desired, for which we will make a charge depending on the carburetor suggested by our patrons. We, however, strongly recommend the use of our mixing valve, which we believe under all circumstances will give more desirable and more efficient service than most of the carburetors on the market, and avoid so many of the uncertain and provoking conditions." Another Kiplingler pictured has a Schebler Model D carburetor. Jon.

Test! As mentioned by others in the thread: you need (1) compression, (2) spark, (3) air/fuel mixture, (4) all arriving at the right time. Compression testers are inexpensive, and easy to use. If the compression is bad, fixing the spark and/or the air fuel mixture won't matter. Test compression first. Spark testers are inexpensive, and easy to use. If the spark is bad, fixing the air/fuel mixture won't matter. Test the spark second. If the spark is good, check the timing of the spark. If compression, spark, and timing are good, fill the carburetor through the bowl vent rather than pouring gas down the throat of the carburetor. See if the engine will fire. If it will, great. If not, maybe time to enlist some more experienced help. And a fire estinguisher rated for gasoline sitting within easy reach is never a bad idea when trying to start an unknown engine. Have fun, but be safe. Jon.

Let me know what issue. I have hundreds of duplicate issues available for sale. Jon.

I am all for it being moved, if it should be moved. However, the title of the forum includes "printed material" and the tags to be used in the forum include "for sale" and "wanted". Jon.

As I am no longer working on carburetors, I am offering some of the literature from my personal collection (as well as duplicate literature, some of which has been on my website for some time). This offering is for probably the most comprehensive set of documents on the Carter brass bowl carburetors that exists today. This was the first carburetor manual I purchased, about 1967. The manual was originally a cardboard backed manual printed in 1931, and updated to 1933. The original manual when I purchased it was roughly 3/4 inch thick. Carter produced an earlier manual, which I have never seen, but my mentor had one, and he was sufficiently gracious to photocopy the manual for me, which I added to this manual. What happened to his collection of literature, parts, etc. when he passed should be a wake-up call to all of us, but that is a different story. Let's just say that material will never again be available.☹️ For years, I specialized in the brass bowl Carters, as well as the Carter W-1's. A friend at Carter was kind enough to photocopy the then existing assembly drawings for other carburetors too obscure to have printed forms (example, New Way). These I also added to the book. Since I used the book extensively, I placed the pages in protective sleeves, and then placed everything in one of the later Carter maroon binders. So what does the book include: (1) specification and adjustment sheets for dozens of brass bowl updraft carburetors, beginning with number 4 and ending with number 228. NO, it is not inclusive. (2) special bulletins specific to various makes (part calibration change, adjustment changes, issues, etc.) (3) general bulletins non-make specific (one included in the introduction of the BB updraft universal carburetor) (4) parts price list AND APPLICATION LIST 1923-1931 (5) parts price list and application list 1932-1933 (part of the update). (6) carburetor price list and application list The parts application lists answer LOTS of the questions asked on these forums. So how can you use it? Let's say you need a carburetor for your 1930 Chevrolet. The parts book tells you it is a Carter RJH-08. Literature on the 'net tells you it should be tag number 150s. You find an RJH-08 at a swap meet, but of course there is no tag. What do you do? Well, you took this book with you, along with an adjustable end wrench, a pencil eraser, and a good magnifying glass. You ask the vendor if he/she will allow you to remove the bowl. After he/she says yes, you remove the bowl, take the pencil eraser, and clean the bottom of the multiple nozzle that is now accessable. With the glass, you are able to read 12 on top and 106 on the bottom. Turning to the index, you find this nozzle is unique to Carter number 119s. You consult the carburetor index, and find 119s was used by Chrysler. You continue to look, but don't spend money you don't need to spend for the incorrect carburetor. You can identify virtually ALL brass bowl carburetors using this technique and this book. You can also identify a part that you need from the specifications page for your carburetor, and then look in the applications list to find what other carburetors may have used the same part. Price of the book is $850. to include postage and insurance within the 48 contiguous United States. The book is for sale in its entirely, not interested in selling photocopies of portions of the book. If you wish to do so, AFTER you buy it, your choice. And, no offense meant to anyone. Scanners are cheap, as is disk space. This book will be sold as is, no warranty, not returnable. Will be happy to discuss exact contents BY TELEPHONE, not by message, not by email, not by posts on this forum. 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). Will accept VISA / MasterCard Jon.

In order: (1) As Tom mentioned above, drive out the brass venturi retaining plug. (2) PULL the venturi from the top using the special tool. If you are extremely lucky, it will come out. (3) Remove the cotter pin (often the top is rusted way, so you won't see it) holding the choke shaft. (4) Remove the choke shaft. (5) Now the choker cone will easily come out the top. New and new old stock parts are readily available; used parts on these carburetors will generally not be better than what you have. Jon