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Everything posted by scott12180

  1. Did you buy from a private individual or from a dealer or auction house? What year is the car and in which state do you live? What is required to register a car varies greatly state-by-state. --Scott
  2. Hi Scott --- Congratulations on the 10-C. They really are great cars as Tom says. They won't go 70 mph like some people drive side drafts, but they are light weight, easy steering, simple to work on and represent truly the last of the Golden Age of Franklin. Once you learn Franklin history you'll find that their best, happiest days were the Series 9 and Series 10 era. What body style is yours? When you get the car home and before you start to drive it, PLEASE take a few days to check things over under the hood. Remove the oil pan and clean out all of the accumulated sludge. Chances ar
  3. The Franklin lion was the mascot beginning with the Series 10-C for the 1925 model year and used through the 1928 Series 12-A. Now, if you are thinking of the lion with the Franklin script name attached to the lion's base, that was only on the 1925 Series 10-C. The Series 11 and Series 12-A lions sat on a pedestal which proclaimed "Aura Vincit" under the lion. The name "Franklin" in block letters and separately attached to the hood front (false radiator) was used for only half a month in March of 1925 before being replaced with a round button with an old English script "F". --Scott
  4. I'll second that motion. I'd like to get a set for my 10-B. --Scott
  5. Well, congratulations on all counts. Always good to have a new member and especially a fellow Series 10 owner. Hope it and you makes it to the Trek. Now I've got to wonder, with a name like "BenFranklin22", and a Franklin being a 1923, does this mean that you own another car? A 1922 perhaps? And with a name like BenFranklin, it must be an electric car. Right? :-) Anyway, welcome. I hope the club and everything associated with it is useful to you and is a source of enjoyment. --Scott Dwyer
  6. The NAPA coil IC674 is obsolete and no longer available. Shoot. . . .
  7. I'd appreciate that. As far as I can tell my NAPA guy hasn't heard of a 6 volt epoxy coil. This from a friend: " I called the NAPA tech service and the guy did some checking. He said the only 6 volt coils that they have are the oil filled NAPA Echlin # IC7, or a tar filled NAPA Echlin IC670, which is a boxy thing that doesn’t look like any Franklin era coil. He couldn’t find anything about epoxy filled coils." So if you can get that part number, this will be interesting to see what NAPA can find. --Scott <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Norm
  8. Tom wrote: "An off the shelf coil mounted in the original location might not be the best. I burned through 2 on my series 10 until I went to an epoxy coil. There is a lot of heat under there. And I drove hard. moving the coil to under the dash also solves that problem." Can Tom or someone provide a source for a 6 volt epoxy coil? I've been searching the internet and 6 volt epoxy coils are hard to find. Thanks --- Scott
  9. As a point of clarification, both Tom and someone who did not identify themselves suggested that Champion W-16s are hotter than W-18's. Two cross listing charts I have disagree --- the higher the number on the Champion, the hotter the spark plug. W-18's are hotter than W-16's. W-14 is a cold plug; W-20 is very hot. Can someone verify this, or refute this with published data? Also, does anyone know if the new Champion 518 is the same as their W-18? You can buy 518's --- you cannot buy new W-18's at the local auto parts stores. --Scott Dwyer
  10. Does Russ Furstnow have an e-mail address? Or a website? --Scott
  11. I was recommended to a fellow to rebuild the whole speedometer, and judging by the condition of the cable, internal guts, etc. that would probably be a good idea. Has anyone had a complete speedometer rebuild? And if so, what was your total cost? I'm a little afraid of getting a bill for $1000 !! --Scott
  12. Hi all --- I'd like to find a whole rear axle for a Series 10. I especially am looking for the axle shafts as well as the differential with ring and pinion as one matched set. Hence an entire rear axle would be ideal. The car it is for is a 1924 10-B but the parts book suggests that all Series 10 and even Series 11 should work or be adaptable. Any help? --Scott Dwyer dwyers@rpi.edu
  13. Question: Does anyone sell parts for 1920's Stewart speedometers which have the drum speed indicator? The speedometer on my 1924 Franklin doesn't work. The problem lies in the drum itself which is the speed indicator that has the numbers. If you’ve had these apart you know that the indicator drum or driven drum is really two nested drums. The driving drum sits in between these two. (As far as I know) it’s the close proximity of the three drums and viscosity of the surrounding air which makes it work --- much like a modern torque converter in an automatic transmission. The difficu
  14. <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> &
  15. Wow, what an idea. The first time I saw one of those things was during a visit to California maybe 15 years ago. We ate supper at an outdoor cafe in February where it would ordinarilly be too cold, but the heaters did a swell job of providing an island of warmth. Being a frugal Yankee, the thought of a 100% waste of heat was an anathema, but in a garage? Hmmm. . . . With a ten foot ceiling you could mount it there and forgo the pole. Your radius of warmth would be larger, too. And without insulation with a ridge vent in the roof, the water vapor would just rise while the radiant heat war
  16. Am I correct to assume that if you have a garage that's well below freezing, and go out to turn on your heater of whatever type to raise the temperature to a working range, that you run the risk of developing cracks in the paint of your cars? Especially if they are older lacquer paint jobs? I've always been afraid to do that, if not for the paint but the thermal cycling of everything from 15 or 20 degrees to 55 or so, and then back to 15 or 20 that night. Or hot spots where the warm air blows directly on a frigid car. I'd much rather maintain a constant 45 degrees out there, then bump it u
  17. <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> &
  18. I would like to see New York wave the annual vehicle inspection for historic vehicles. If not 25 year old cars, how about at the very least cars which are 100 years old ! There's not much to inspect on a 100 year old car anyway, and considering how much they are driven, why force an owner to submit to an inspection when the guys doing the inspection have no clue as what they are looking at? --Scott
  19. Yes. . . I am looking for a complete magneto. Eisemann EDAJ6. The whole thing, either ready to mount or needing to be rebuilt. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks ! --Scott
  20. I am looking for an Eisemann magneto, model EDAJ6. This is proper for my 1914 Franklin. Anyone know of guys who repair or just sell brass era magnetos? I don't have one to rebuild but am looking to buy a whole magneto outright. . . . or one in any condition to rebuild. Thanks ! --- Scott dwyers@rpi.edu
  21. No, Steve did not have a core. I am looking for a whole intact EDAJ6 because what's on my car is not correct. I need to rebuild my current magneto anyway, and would really like to put the money into something that is proper. --Scott
  22. Thanks --- I checked with Steve. No luck. Is there a list of parts and service people in the HCCA or other club? It would be nice to have a list of who deals in magnetos or who repairs them. I could then contact these guys directly. --Scott
  23. Looking for an Eisemann magneto, type EDAJ6 which is used on brass era cars. I've attached a couple photos. Any suggestions who I could contact would be appreciated, guys who restore magnetos, I'd imagine, or anyone you think might have a complete or parts magneto. Thanks for your help ! dwyers@rpi.edu Thanks --- Scott
  24. Hi all -- I am looking for a good set of Splitdorf spark plugs for a 7/8" thread. (Not pipe thread). These are the short green ceramic ones. Got a couple at Hershey but need a few more. Thanks --- Scott dwyers@rpi.edu
  25. Hi all --- Thanks to everyone for replies to my tow vehicle post. I haven't found anything yet, but locally appeared a 1984 Ford F-150 with 302 V8, manual transmission, 77,000 original miles. This has everything I want on it and for the load I will haul, but my memory of American vehicles of the 1980's is not good. I was 23 at the time, but I recall they had all sorts of quality and reliability issues, and were highly prone to rust. That's my biggest problem --- this truck will live outside in upstate New York. It won't be a commuter vehicle, but will get snowed and rained on. If it will
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