scott12180's Content - Page 12 - Antique Automobile Club of America

Waiting on a Title for my Franklin

scott12180 replied to MikeDeFelice's topic in Franklin

Did you buy from a private individual or from a dealer or auction house? What year is the car and in which state do you live? What is required to register a car varies greatly state-by-state. --Scott

New member, lots of questions 1925 10C

scott12180 replied to Scott in PA's topic in Franklin

Hi Scott --- Congratulations on the 10-C. They really are great cars as Tom says. They won't go 70 mph like some people drive side drafts, but they are light weight, easy steering, simple to work on and represent truly the last of the Golden Age of Franklin. Once you learn Franklin history you'll find that their best, happiest days were the Series 9 and Series 10 era. What body style is yours? When you get the car home and before you start to drive it, PLEASE take a few days to check things over under the hood. Remove the oil pan and clean out all of the accumulated sludge. Chances are previous owners never did this and ran non-detergent oil for years and years. You need to get as much of that black tar-like goo out before you do any serious driving. At least to make certain that nothing is blocking the intake on the oil pump. And while the oil pan is off, pull off the connecting rod caps to take a quick check of the bearings there. Old Babbitt can crack very easily, and if it disintegrates while on the road you will be an unhappy camper. Just check it now and if it looks good, measure the clearances. If the clearances are OK, put it back together and enjoy it conservatively until some serious rebuilding can be done. It's OK to drive on old Babbitt but only if it's not cracked and broken to begin with. I am assuming that you know which end of a screwdriver to hold, but if mechanical tinkering is not one of your talents, there are people you can take the car to for help on these simple initial checks. And you might be able to ask them to get the car home for you as well. You said the car is in Hershey and you live in Scranton. I will send you a private e-mail with the name of a fellow near-by who might be able to help you. He doesn't appear to do much e-mailing so I'll see if I can dig up a telephone number (which I don't want to post to the whole world here). Please send me your e-mail address. And please consider getting the car to the Trek in Cazenovia one month from now. Even if it's not running well, we all would love to see it and will offer far more advice than you could possibly want to hear. --Scott Dwyer dwyers@rpi.edu 1924 10-B Sedan 1914 Series 5 Touring

Franklin Hood Ornament

scott12180 replied to DNC's topic in Franklin

The Franklin lion was the mascot beginning with the Series 10-C for the 1925 model year and used through the 1928 Series 12-A. Now, if you are thinking of the lion with the Franklin script name attached to the lion's base, that was only on the 1925 Series 10-C. The Series 11 and Series 12-A lions sat on a pedestal which proclaimed "Aura Vincit" under the lion. The name "Franklin" in block letters and separately attached to the hood front (false radiator) was used for only half a month in March of 1925 before being replaced with a round button with an old English script "F". --Scott

Watson Stabilator Webbing

scott12180 replied to odyssey's topic in Franklin

I'll second that motion. I'd like to get a set for my 10-B. --Scott

Maintinence help

scott12180 replied to a topic in Franklin

Well, congratulations on all counts. Always good to have a new member and especially a fellow Series 10 owner. Hope it and you makes it to the Trek. Now I've got to wonder, with a name like "BenFranklin22", and a Franklin being a 1923, does this mean that you own another car? A 1922 perhaps? And with a name like BenFranklin, it must be an electric car. Right? :-) Anyway, welcome. I hope the club and everything associated with it is useful to you and is a source of enjoyment. --Scott Dwyer

June 25, 2013
16 replies
- coil
- new parts
- (and 2 more)
  Tagged with:
  - coil
  - new parts
  - oil level
  - plugs

Maintinence help

scott12180 replied to a topic in Franklin

The NAPA coil IC674 is obsolete and no longer available. Shoot. . . .

June 24, 2013
16 replies
- coil
- new parts
- (and 2 more)
  Tagged with:
  - coil
  - new parts
  - oil level
  - plugs

Maintinence help

scott12180 replied to a topic in Franklin

I'd appreciate that. As far as I can tell my NAPA guy hasn't heard of a 6 volt epoxy coil. This from a friend: " I called the NAPA tech service and the guy did some checking. He said the only 6 volt coils that they have are the oil filled NAPA Echlin # IC7, or a tar filled NAPA Echlin IC670, which is a boxy thing that doesn’t look like any Franklin era coil. He couldn’t find anything about epoxy filled coils." So if you can get that part number, this will be interesting to see what NAPA can find. --Scott

June 24, 2013
16 replies
- coil
- new parts
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  Tagged with:
  - coil
  - new parts
  - oil level
  - plugs

Maintinence help

scott12180 replied to a topic in Franklin

Tom wrote: "An off the shelf coil mounted in the original location might not be the best. I burned through 2 on my series 10 until I went to an epoxy coil. There is a lot of heat under there. And I drove hard. moving the coil to under the dash also solves that problem." Can Tom or someone provide a source for a 6 volt epoxy coil? I've been searching the internet and 6 volt epoxy coils are hard to find. Thanks --- Scott

June 23, 2013
16 replies
- coil
- new parts
- (and 2 more)
  Tagged with:
  - coil
  - new parts
  - oil level
  - plugs

Spark plug recommendations

scott12180 replied to Povertycove's topic in Franklin

As a point of clarification, both Tom and someone who did not identify themselves suggested that Champion W-16s are hotter than W-18's. Two cross listing charts I have disagree --- the higher the number on the Champion, the hotter the spark plug. W-18's are hotter than W-16's. W-14 is a cold plug; W-20 is very hot. Can someone verify this, or refute this with published data? Also, does anyone know if the new Champion 518 is the same as their W-18? You can buy 518's --- you cannot buy new W-18's at the local auto parts stores. --Scott Dwyer

1920's Stewart Speedometers

scott12180 replied to scott12180's topic in Technical

Does Russ Furstnow have an e-mail address? Or a website? --Scott

1920's Stewart Speedometers

scott12180 replied to scott12180's topic in Technical

I was recommended to a fellow to rebuild the whole speedometer, and judging by the condition of the cable, internal guts, etc. that would probably be a good idea. Has anyone had a complete speedometer rebuild? And if so, what was your total cost? I'm a little afraid of getting a bill for $1000 !! --Scott

Series 10 or Series 11 Rear Axle WANTED

scott12180 posted a topic in Franklin

Hi all --- I'd like to find a whole rear axle for a Series 10. I especially am looking for the axle shafts as well as the differential with ring and pinion as one matched set. Hence an entire rear axle would be ideal. The car it is for is a 1924 10-B but the parts book suggests that all Series 10 and even Series 11 should work or be adaptable. Any help? --Scott Dwyer dwyers@rpi.edu

April 9, 2013

1920's Stewart Speedometers

scott12180 posted a topic in Franklin

Question: Does anyone sell parts for 1920's Stewart speedometers which have the drum speed indicator? The speedometer on my 1924 Franklin doesn't work. The problem lies in the drum itself which is the speed indicator that has the numbers. If you’ve had these apart you know that the indicator drum or driven drum is really two nested drums. The driving drum sits in between these two. (As far as I know) it’s the close proximity of the three drums and viscosity of the surrounding air which makes it work --- much like a modern torque converter in an automatic transmission. The difficulty is that the space between these three drums is very small, so that they all need to be nearly perfectly concentric so they don’t touch also with no dents or creases. And the indicator drums (with the numbers) is of very thin aluminum so it is easily damaged. Does anyone sells parts for these speedometers? If I could buy a new or perfect speed indicator or driven drum with the numbers I could make the whole thing work. The photo shows one speedometer which is missing the driving drum but you can see the two nested driven drums. The driving drum would go inside this. The driving drum is pretty robust. It's the driven drums which are delicate. --Scott

March 26, 2013

1920's Stewart Speedometers

scott12180 posted a topic in Technical

Question: Does anyone sell parts for 1920's Stewart speedometers which have the drum speed indicator? The speedometer on my 1924 Franklin doesn't work. The problem lies in the drum itself which is the speed indicator that has the numbers. If you’ve had these apart you know that the indicator drum or driven drum is really two nested drums. The driving drum sits in between these two. It’s the close proximity of the three drums and viscosity of the surrounding air which makes it work --- much like a modern torque converter in an automatic transmission. The difficulty is that the space between these three drums is very small, so that they all need to be nearly perfectly concentric so they don’t touch also with no dents or creases. And the indicator drum outermost drum (with the numbers) is of very thin aluminum so it is easily damaged. Does anyone sells parts for these speedometers? If I could buy a new or perfect speed indicator or driven drum I could make the whole thing work. The photo shows one speedometer which is missing the driving drum but you can see the two nested driven drums. The driving drum would go inside this. The driving drum is pretty robust. It's the driven drums which are delicate. Thanks --- Scott

Garage Heaters - Opinions

scott12180 replied to Whitmoyer's topic in Garages, Trailers, and Towing

Wow, what an idea. The first time I saw one of those things was during a visit to California maybe 15 years ago. We ate supper at an outdoor cafe in February where it would ordinarilly be too cold, but the heaters did a swell job of providing an island of warmth. Being a frugal Yankee, the thought of a 100% waste of heat was an anathema, but in a garage? Hmmm. . . . With a ten foot ceiling you could mount it there and forgo the pole. Your radius of warmth would be larger, too. And without insulation with a ridge vent in the roof, the water vapor would just rise while the radiant heat warmed below. This is probably the same idea as radiant ceiling mount heaters which look like long thick pipes running under the rafters. Only these are probably alot cheaper. Again, I am worried about the radiant heat on automobile paint. You are heating the surface of the paint directly while the metal under remains frigid. --Scott near SW Vermont

Garage Heaters - Opinions

scott12180 replied to Whitmoyer's topic in Garages, Trailers, and Towing

Am I correct to assume that if you have a garage that's well below freezing, and go out to turn on your heater of whatever type to raise the temperature to a working range, that you run the risk of developing cracks in the paint of your cars? Especially if they are older lacquer paint jobs? I've always been afraid to do that, if not for the paint but the thermal cycling of everything from 15 or 20 degrees to 55 or so, and then back to 15 or 20 that night. Or hot spots where the warm air blows directly on a frigid car. I'd much rather maintain a constant 45 degrees out there, then bump it up to 55 for comfortable working. This topic is getting dear to my heart because in the past few years I don't even work in the garage until the outside temperatures get into the 40's at least. So that's almost three or four months of no activity. Talk about withdrawal symptoms ! (Earlier this week we got into the mid-50's and I spent the day in the garage. Boy, was I happy ! This morning it's back in the low 20's. :-( --Scott Troy, New York

Need help finding 9B blueprint info

scott12180 replied to RansomEli's topic in Franklin

In the drawing file sills go by a different name “side sill members”. Not frames, or chassis sills. The drawing you need to finish his Series 9 sills is 22969/22968. And that drawing also lists the original finish you're asking about – creosote, as all the sills used.  --PF

One Time Registration, NY State

scott12180 replied to Bill Boudway's topic in Automotive Legislation

I would like to see New York wave the annual vehicle inspection for historic vehicles. If not 25 year old cars, how about at the very least cars which are 100 years old ! There's not much to inspect on a 100 year old car anyway, and considering how much they are driven, why force an owner to submit to an inspection when the guys doing the inspection have no clue as what they are looking at? --Scott

Eisemann Magneto - EDAJ6

scott12180 replied to scott12180's topic in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell

Yes. . . I am looking for a complete magneto. Eisemann EDAJ6. The whole thing, either ready to mount or needing to be rebuilt. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks ! --Scott

Looking for a Magneto

scott12180 posted a topic in HCCA General Discussion

I am looking for an Eisemann magneto, model EDAJ6. This is proper for my 1914 Franklin. Anyone know of guys who repair or just sell brass era magnetos? I don't have one to rebuild but am looking to buy a whole magneto outright. . . . or one in any condition to rebuild. Thanks ! --- Scott dwyers@rpi.edu

Eisemann Magneto - EDAJ6

scott12180 replied to scott12180's topic in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell

No, Steve did not have a core. I am looking for a whole intact EDAJ6 because what's on my car is not correct. I need to rebuild my current magneto anyway, and would really like to put the money into something that is proper. --Scott

Eisemann Magneto - EDAJ6

scott12180 replied to scott12180's topic in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell

Thanks --- I checked with Steve. No luck. Is there a list of parts and service people in the HCCA or other club? It would be nice to have a list of who deals in magnetos or who repairs them. I could then contact these guys directly. --Scott

Eisemann Magneto - EDAJ6

scott12180 posted a topic in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell

Looking for an Eisemann magneto, type EDAJ6 which is used on brass era cars. I've attached a couple photos. Any suggestions who I could contact would be appreciated, guys who restore magnetos, I'd imagine, or anyone you think might have a complete or parts magneto. Thanks for your help ! dwyers@rpi.edu Thanks --- Scott

Looking for Splitdorf Spark Plugs

scott12180 posted a topic in Technical

Hi all -- I am looking for a good set of Splitdorf spark plugs for a 7/8" thread. (Not pipe thread). These are the short green ceramic ones. Got a couple at Hershey but need a few more. Thanks --- Scott dwyers@rpi.edu

October 17, 2012

1984 F-150 302 V8 for towing?

scott12180 posted a topic in Garages, Trailers, and Towing

Hi all --- Thanks to everyone for replies to my tow vehicle post. I haven't found anything yet, but locally appeared a 1984 Ford F-150 with 302 V8, manual transmission, 77,000 original miles. This has everything I want on it and for the load I will haul, but my memory of American vehicles of the 1980's is not good. I was 23 at the time, but I recall they had all sorts of quality and reliability issues, and were highly prone to rust. That's my biggest problem --- this truck will live outside in upstate New York. It won't be a commuter vehicle, but will get snowed and rained on. If it will rust away after a couple of years, it's not what I want. Thought? Thanks --- Scott

September 8, 2012

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Everything posted by scott12180

Waiting on a Title for my Franklin

New member, lots of questions 1925 10C

Franklin Hood Ornament

Watson Stabilator Webbing

Maintinence help

Maintinence help

Maintinence help

Maintinence help

Spark plug recommendations

1920's Stewart Speedometers

1920's Stewart Speedometers

Series 10 or Series 11 Rear Axle WANTED

1920's Stewart Speedometers

1920's Stewart Speedometers

Garage Heaters - Opinions

Garage Heaters - Opinions

Need help finding 9B blueprint info

One Time Registration, NY State

Eisemann Magneto - EDAJ6

Looking for a Magneto

Eisemann Magneto - EDAJ6

Eisemann Magneto - EDAJ6

Eisemann Magneto - EDAJ6

Looking for Splitdorf Spark Plugs

1984 F-150 302 V8 for towing?

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