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Biography

Found 11 results

  1. Hi I'm new to the site and I just got a 49 Plymouth. I'm just getting into classic cars and I'm 28. It was running when I bought it (two weeks ago) and I had a friend change out a number of things (spark plugs, fuel pump, distributor cap, rotor, points, coil, choke, and cleaned the carb) Well before I went to get it the cap was off and it isn't running now. My questions are..... There's a 12v negative ground battery, isn't this wrong? I got it like this. Its turning turning but will not start and I'm stuck. There's no spark in the new coil when I ran wires straight from the battery to it. There's no sparks in 2 spark plugs I checked. The set the points to .020. Is there something else I can do? I want to convert the points to electric ignition, is there any kits for a 6v? before he messed with it we ran a full tank of gas through it now I can't get it started.
  2. I was out driving around , and she just died. no spark at plugs. bought a new 12v condenser from myers. it will not fit in my distributor ,its too big. then I noticed what looks like a 12v reducer on my firewall. wondering if someone in time replaced my distributor with a 6 volt. I tried the new condenser , but still no spark , im not sure if it matters that its a 12v and I need 6 v. I bought a new 6 v coil. im getting spark and she runs, but very rough. also my distrubor has 2 wires ciomming out of it , it makes a loop and connects to the old condenser. does anyone know how to connect a new condenser up? also what looks like a 12v to 6 v reducer is giving me a 12v reading on both ends, is it broke? or is it ok , I just need a 12 v coil? ugh ... trying to get her running for the aaca show in port st lucie in 20 days. I posted some pics so you can see what I have going on
  3. I know most of this post would fit best in the Maxwell subforum, but I thought some of the questions are general enough that they would be best served here. I'm in the process of restoring a 1910 Maxwell Q3 and am getting very close to the point of starting it, but there are still a few mysteries surrounding the car that I need some help figuring out. I'll put them here in bullet format, and anyone that can help with any of them would be greatly appreciated! - What color spark plug wires should I use? The engine will be black, so what was a good, period color for the cloth-wrapped wires? - Should I use these same wires to go between the Splitdorf mag and the coil? - Where can I get a coil switch? I know a Splitdorf one will be extremely hard to come by, so what would be a good replacement for the time being? It doesn't need to be a box, just a dash-mounted switch. - What would be the best coil and battery to get? The system is a 6V, I've been told, so supposedly it's adequate to get a basic battery and modern coil - but what are some good, cheap options? - Where can I get the seats made for the car? Currently I have a lower body (or will have one, anyway), but I don't have a front or rear seat. Is there a place that can make one (it doesn't have to be perfect as a Maxwell, since those are tough to find)? Any recommendations there would be helpful. I won't overload the boards, so that's all for now. Thanks! ---Greg
  4. I have a 1923 Franklin my dad left me and I was recently able to get it running but would like to know a couple things: 1. How do I check the oil level and how much does it need? 2. Where can I find a new coil and some new plugs? - you help would be greatly appreciated.
  5. AHa

    Eisemann coil

    Eisemann through the dash coil in good condition nickel plated type DCR 6 Volt coil condition unknown $400
  6. Good afternoon all! What I've got is a 1965 Rambler American 440 232cu. I bought it knowing that it was going to be a project, and I have a good set of tools. It's time to tackle the first item of business - namely the front coil springs and rear leaf springs. 1. The car is riding really low, but... 2. I'm not sure of the standard ground clearance is for my can 3. The shocks look pretty ancient 4. The rear leaf springs are pretty durn flat, i.e., not springy SO...my questions are: 1. Is there a way to tell if the F/R springs are shot? 2. Should I just go ahead and replace the coil and leaf springs? And if so, where might I find the parts? 2. If I'm going to tackle the leaf and coil springs, should I just go ahead and replace the shocks at the time? My thinking is that coil/leaf springs are just plain tired out. I've heard that I could install an air compressor and air adjusters both front and rear. Ahhhh...how 'bout no on that idea. Any and ALL input with my questions will be greatly appreciated. John C. Galleni Oakland, CA
  7. I`m not a ford guy but.... do all Model T ford coils have" Ford" "cut" into the wood on the side? How do you check to see if they are working if you don`t have a Ford model T to try them in? thanks
  8. :mad: I have been suffering to start my 1951 Plymouth when the engine is hot. I have noticed the 6V ignition coil is overheated when I have this starting problem. If I wait some time, it cools down, then car starts. I have already replaced the 6V battery and the coil many times, and no solution was achieved. I changed the original location of the coil, attaching it to the fender, what reduced the overheating, but did not solve the problem completely. Currently I use a 6V Bosch ignition coil. The temperature gauge does not need to be at maximum level to starting failure, in fact it happens at temperatures above the half of the gauge indicator. I believe the engine cooling is fine, recently the water pump was rebuilt and the radiator core changed. I always have a spare coil inside the glove box, so I can replace the coil when the problem happens. Sometimes I just wrap the hot coil with a wet cloth, so the temperature gets down and the engine starts. What could be the source of this problem? What is getting the coil so hot? Thanks, JRA 1928 Chevrolet Touring 1929 Chrysler 75 Roadster 1951 Plymouth Cranbrook 1954 Willys CJ-3B Jeep
  9. I constructed a temporary plywood fire wall set the coil in the fire wall , I had the coil bolted to the chassis before I have a switch on the column with the wire coming off the negative cable bolted to the starter . i left the switch on with out the car running and after a wile i smelt some thing it smelt like some thing burning couldent figure it out sniffed around and felt the coil it was almost to hot to touch .What caused this ? I have the coil that was on the car the metal shield from the ignition was off I just hooked the negiteve wire from the started to the screw on the back of the coil . it ran fine before and turned off when i flipped the switch on the column why did it get so hot
  10. Need help. I picked up a 1927 Chrysler all original down to the leather brakes and it ran perfect. I have never had a 6 volt system before let alone a positive ground system. With that said, I purchased a new battery and hooked the ground to the positive (poof smoke). Engine turns over just fine, I no longer have lights or spark. I have been unable to locate any type of fuse. I have installed a new started solenoid and a new coil, still nothing works except the starter. Has anyone done this before or do you have any suggestions.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
  11. I have a 1939 Buick Roadmaster which I am restoring. The valve body has a flapper inside. On the outside, on one side of the valve body,there is a thermostatic coil. On the other side there is a metal weight. No spring there but it appears there should be one. When you turn the weight until it stops, the flapper closes 90%. When I move the weight the other way, the flapper closes 100%. These are my questions: 1) when the engine is cold, should the flapper be closed? 2) when the engine is hot, where should the flapper be positioned? THe problem I have is that I do not know if I got to put a spring.Also how to put the thermostatic coil correctly, in order for the the flapper to work properly. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks (Pics attached)