Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by scott12180

  1. Couple of you guys have mentioned the '38 to '40 Cadillacs. What do you know about the '37 by comparison? I'm kinda new to Cadillac but have a soft spot for the looks of the '37. Know next to nothing about the mechanical differences, though. Any significant differences? -- Luke
  2. Never thought to post this here, but why not. . . I'm looking for a comfortable closed car of the 1930's. Looked at Packards, Pierces, Cadillac. . . but don't want a car approaching six figures. Want a good quality car that can be used as a grocery-getter. Just have fun driving, owning, sitting in the back seat. One car I like is the Buick for various reasons. And the '38 is my favorite. And of that, the Roadmaster has the size and feel that I'm after, To make matters worse, I really want a car WITHOUT sidemounts. No sidemounts. Most people like them. I d
  3. Not sure how active this forum is, but it will be helpful if even a few of you could reply here when you received your June Service Station AND where do you live. In response to the glacial service by your government with Bulk Rate Mail, we thought we'd try first class mailing this time. But is it doing any good? My goal was to have everyone (in the USA, at least) have their Service Station by June 1st. If that can't be met there is no point is spending the bucks on first class. Again, please reply when you received it and where you live. Thanks --- Luke
  4. Good reference. Thank you. I do agree that most older restorations out there were restored for show and not to drive. "Restored" meant pretty new paint, upholstery and top. If it ran, that's all that was required. Every car I've owned without exception has needed to have the engine rebuilt. I would dearly love to buy a car that looks good and runs well from day one so that I can just enjoy it. I suppose that's asking too much. So yes, with a Cadillac 12 and any of the big Classics, unless you know the history, who restored it, who rebuilt the engine, how it was
  5. I'm hoping that some knowledgeable Cadillac guys could share a few thoughts, as I asked. Yes, I realize all old cars are crap. I've been doing this for 40 years and can attest that much. Like Ed, all of my cars have indeed run at their very best. Except when they don't. I'd prefer to be a little more positive and encouraging than blanket statements that No, I can't service, tune or repair a Cadillac Twelve myself. I agree that some old car owners out there appear to not know which end of a screwdriver to hold, and they would always be in need of professional help to
  6. Hi All --- Could someone tell me the low-down on the Cadillac Twelve of the 1930's? I'm curious if these are sound, reliable engines or do they have certain hidden and costly gremlins which will haunt you. Such as the Packard's aluminum cylinder heads and complicated valve train or the many problems of Lincoln twelves. I've not owned one --- had several straight eights -- but have considered Packard Twelves and Pierce Twelves. And have started thinking about a Cadillac. Thanks for any insights, either public or PM. -- Luke
  7. I am wondering if Chrysler used an aluminum cylinder head as early as 1931, specifically on the big 385 cu in CG models? I ask because I see that the standard compression ratio was 5:1 but a 6:1 ratio was optional. Was the 6:1 ratio the result of an aluminum head? I didn't think anyone used aluminum heads that early. -- Luke
  8. You're right. I've been comparing photographs and that panel is much longer on the hood side. The number of louvers is 33 on both the CP and CH, so that doesn't help. The other aspect is the engine itself. If you are just looking at a photograph, the small eight CP has the distributor coming out the side of the engine --- driver's side or left side. The 385 CH engine has the distributor coming out the top, through the cylinder head. The thermostatic radiator shutter control is also different on the CH versus CP. But as far as I can tell, from the hood bac
  9. If you are looking at photographs only, are there certain things you can look for to distinguish between the smaller 1932 Chrysler CP with the 298 cu-in engine and 125" wheelbase versus the larger CH with the 385 cu-in engine and 135: wheelbase? Let's say that both cars are four-door sedans. Thanks --- Luke
  10. Could someone tell me the workings of the Hone aftermarket overdrive from the 60's and 70's? Did these contain their own oil supply, or did they depend on circulation from the main transmission? And were these effectively a gear splitter in that they could be engaged at any speed, even in reverse? Or did you need to get up to a certain speed and then you could engage them? Thanks --- Luke
  11. Hi --- I'm new to Zephyrs but interested in a car that I found. The car is a 1942. I have some concern because I've heard the '42 has a unique engine or something different about it. Did they bore it out larger or do something to change it for that year only? And if so, was this a good change or does it bring a host of problems that are not found on other Zephyrs. Are they reliable or prone to cracking or . . . .? My motivation is that at one time I owned a '38 Packard Super 8. Later I learned the reason why the engine was bad ---- they are all prone to cracking of the cy
  12. I've got to agree with everyone so far. My two cents ---- it depends on where you live. If you are in an arid climate like Tucson or Vegas, then an outside cover to protect the car from the sun and dust may be fine. Everyone's comments seem to apply to where I live -- the damp northeast. In that case ventilation or circulation of air is the most important. If the cover gets soaking wet in a storm and it's humid for the next week or more, that water will not dry off. The damp cover will be against the paint and will hold the moisture in. Having kept cars and motorcycles
  13. What everyone said above. Makes a huge difference if you are selling big brass, Model A Fords, 1960's muscle cars or six figure Classics. Different dealers/brokers tend to specialize in different eras and makes, as does the clientele they interact with. Look on their websites and see if your cars fit in with their inventory. Appraisals are OK but please understand that most appraisals that I've seen come in much higher than what a car would actually sell for. Most appraisals, in my opinion, are for insurance purposes or to value an estate. "Feel good" appraisals are al
  14. I'm looking to transport a large 1920's open car from Houston, Texas to Albany, NY. I've used Clark Roan twice and would like to again, but none of his contact information is currently working. Does anyone know Clark? Otherwise, does someone have a good recommendation for enclosed transport? I am looking for door-to-door service without the car being moved from one truck to another. Basically one truck, more-or-less direct service. I posted to the Towing Wanted section, but thought someone could give a recommendation based on past experience.
  15. Looking for transport or recommendations to haul a 1920's open car from Houston, Texas to Albany, NY. Looking for door-to-door service without multiple truck transfers. Time frame roughly now, mid March, through mid-April or so. Thanks -- Scott dwyer12180@gmail.com
  16. Not that I want to challenge the seller, but 2.75 rear end is a little hard to believe. With that low of a ratio power should be next to nothing, especially in a four passenger Touring. The Pierce 66 had a similar ratio but had an engine the size of the Titanic, nearly three times bigger. This Hudson engine at 3-1/2x5 is big but not that big. Same size as the Packard Six in 1928. 3.75 sounds about right for a fast car from around 1920. I would like to see a reference for that 2.75 figure. I'm poking around but haven't found anything yet. "classiccardatabase.com" sa
  17. I often wonder what the actually selling price of Stanleys is these days. You sometimes see cars advertised for months and months, if not years. And no one is buying. Have they lost some of their appeal? I don't know and am not speculating. I've always wanted a Stanley as well, and have always been put off by the price tags. But everything goes in cycles. Perhaps Stanleys have seen their day in the sun and collectors with that much money to spend are buying other things. There's a nice looking Model 70 currently for sale for around $150,000. But to be honest, i
  18. Matt's comments are quite sound. A while back there was a car advertised here for an astoundingly high price, and several people counseled the seller to that effect. It has been advertised lower and lower, and now myself having sold a car it interests me. So I wrote asking if the car was available and for photos. I even stated what I wanted to see. I got two photos both which were posted on this forum. So I asked again. . . . could you please send me, etc .etc. . . I got two more photos. No more information. I recommended that the fellow look at variou
  19. Considering how much abused the term "barn find" is these days, THIS, gentlemen, is what Barn Find means. The description is a little odd, though. Is the car being sold as it is shown, or is this just as it was found and now it's in some other storage, all inventoried and cleaned up? -- Luke
  20. I was going to post a question to the general section of this forum, but I'll ask here: This 836 Club Sedan is a CCCA National First Prize winner -- 100 points, allegedly. So is this consistent with the fact that the car has all around tinted glass? Would this car receive an AACA Senior award with tinted glass? I find it hard to believe the owner replaced all the glass after doing the show circuit. To replace all that glass and return it to clear glass seems to be a huge project. The risk of damaging something is sobering. And no, it's not a peel-off laminat
  21. Just a general question on the 305 cubic inch Zephyr engine for 1942. I've heard that by boring out the block to be a 305, these engines are prone to cracking. That's one reason why after the War they went back to the 292, I understand. If one were to find a running 1942 Zephyr which has been been rebuilt, would you have a risk that the block may crack under normal use? For instance, I once owned a 1938 Packard Super 8, and learned that these blocks are prone to cracking. If you're engine isn't cracked now, it probably will be soon if you drive it much.
  22. I'm looking into having a big early 1930's Club Sedan upholstered -- wool broadcloth. The original upholstery is there, just too ratty to be comfortably used. I'm not looking for Pebble Beach quality, mostly driver quality but I want it done right and done well. Does anyone know of someone doing this kind of work in the northeast? I'm in Albany, NY. Thanks --- Luke
  23. I'm going to replace the ignition coil on my 32 Packard. I just bought a new 6v coil. The coil on the car now is not necessarily mounted where it would have been originally. It's inside the passenger compartment, on the dashboard, mounted horizontally. What I'm wondering is, is the orientation of the coil important? This coil has presumably oil onside because when I shake it I can hear a liquid sloshing around. That being said, can it be mounted horizontally or even upside down? Or must it be mounted upright? Thanks -- Luke
  24. I have a new distributor cap for a 1930's Packard that I stupidly dropped off the table. When it hit the ground it broke into several pieces. Oh well. It happens sometimes. But has anyone found a glue or some other method to repair a cracked or broken distributor cap so it won't arc? I hate to give up on it without trying something. Thanks -- Luke
  25. Thanks, guys, for your advice on the coil. Youv'e made me realize that the ignition wires are at least 40 years old, and yes they are stuffed into in a metal conduit or loom. It's not too much of a stretch to imagine that I could very well be getting some arcing in there. And since I've no idea of the history of the coil, I'm going to get a new coil and ignition wire as well. At least I can eliminate that source of trouble. -- Luke
  • Create New...