scott12180

Hi all, Has anyone had any experience with buying a car overseas and bring it home to the USA? (I know ALOT of cars have left our shores for Europe, but has anyone actually brought one in??) I am considering a complete, operational car and parts from the Australia/New Zealand area and somehow getting it to New England. I've no experience going this. Should one hire a broker or importer to handle the whole thing? Any recommendations? Any idea what it would cost? Thanks for any advice. --Scott

Hi all, Does anyone have any recent experience with having parts chrome plated? I have a 1931 Pierce Arrow which needs the radiator shell and both bumpers replated. There is surface rust on everything but no holes or deep pits. It's been a long time since I did anything like this, so I'm wondering what kind of money to expect to spend? Northeastern US probably since I'd rather take the parts there myself. Other suggestions welcome. --Thanks, Scott

Hi all, I would like to buy a 1937 LaSalle in good running condition. Something fully restored or a very nice original would be my preferences. I do see these come up now and then but thought I'd toss this out. Any leads appreciated. Thanks --Scott

Thanks for all of the advice. I agree that the seller clearly doesn't know his car or what he is talking about. It's been a real struggle to get information from him and frankly I'm worn out. He quoted the engine number for me but it began with a "1" and not a "4" as a Century engine should. However, the length of the valve cover was given as 33-1/2 inches. (The Special is 31 inches), so I'm reasonably sure it's a Century engine. The dash ID tag fairly clearly says that it's a Model 67. But the wheelbase was quoted as 122 inches. Even when I questioned this and said that it was a major sticking point for me, he did not offer to re-measure and give me a new figure. And again, how could he loose 4 inches? 123, 124 OK, but 122??? The car is in southern VA whereas I'm near Vermont. It has been on eBay twice. The first time it didn't meet reserve. Now it is a no reserve auction with one bid, so it's sold. OK by me. If I could have looked it over before bidding/buying I would have taken the trip, but it's a full day's drive away. I've seen other 1937 Centurys so I don't think it's as rare as an honest politician. I'll let this one go and keep looking. Shopping is fun and it's free. Thanks again for all of the help. It's been very educational. --Scott

Thanks to all for their help. The car in question is indeed a Century. Or I should say, does indeed have a Century engine. I'm still bothered by the 122 inch wheelbase. Is it at all possible that a 320 engine could be put into a Special chassis? It's great that it's got the 320 engine, but it would be a shame if it had the 4.40 rear end. I mean, that's really what the Century was all about, wasn't it? It is possible that the owner measured the wheelbase incorrectly, but 4 inches is hard to misplace. Thanks again --- Scott

Hello -- Could someone please help me identify this Auburn? Is this an 8-88 model? And what year is this? (I've attached photos --- hope this works!) Also, is the dashboard correct? It looks awfully sparse! I see someone added controls under, but originally where would the key go, or the choke be, etc. ?? Thanks -- Scott

I'm trying very hard to identify a 1937 Buick series. Thanks to all of the comments and advice thus far. Could someone please measure the length of your valve cover, end to end, and let me know what you find? I have the length of the valve cover of the car in question: 33-1/2 inches. Now, is that the Special engine or the Century engine? If you could just take a minute and measure your engine, I would really appreciate knowing what you find. Then, my mystery should be solved. Thanks very much --- Scott

Hi all, I've been researching the Century for 1937 and have an idea that I wonder if someone really sharp could support or refute. The Century is generally thought to use the 126-inch wheelbase while the Special used the 122-inch wheelbase. Might it be possible that the Slantback Sedans for 1937 (at least) used the 122 inch wheelbase whereas the Humpback Sedans used the slightly longer 126-inch wheelbase? What do you think? Anyone have a 1937 Slantback Century (a confirmed Century) who could measure their wheelbase??? Thanks very much --- Scott

Grandpa wrote: "The 1937 Buick Special has the 248 cubic inch engine. The 1937 Buick Century has the 320 cubic inch engine. . . . The 320 engine is <span style="text-decoration: underline">about 3 inches longer</span> than the 248 engine. Could someone measure their engines and post for us the length of a Special engine and the length of a Century engine? Maybe a good reference might be the overall length of the valve cover. Thanks for your help --- Scott

I know this topic has recently been discussed (sorry) , but I'd like to ask if the Century engine has dual carburetors? I thought it did but I have other sources that say it did not. So I'm confused. Is there a list available of serial numbers or engine numbers that can be used to identify a particular year and model? (And I guess I should ask, is that list where I can have access to it, as I'm sure it exists somewhere.) Thanks --- Scott

I think this is very interesting, too. It seems that old cars have become like real estate --- sold primarily through a dealer. Except real estate dealers get a 6% markup. Old car dealers typically shoot for 100% or more. Take a look in Hemmings and count the number of ads from dealers or auction houses versus the number of ads from private sellers (if you can). There must be ten times the number of dealers today than a generation ago. It is destroying the hobby for ordinary guys who just want to enjoy owning and driving an old car. People in this for investments only are responsible, and dealers with the word "Portfolio" and "Investment" in their names are not helping. The thing that irks me is the balls some of these dealers have insisting that they know what these cars are worth, and hence pricing them way-way above a reasonable value in the hopes of some wealthy foreign buyer or ignorant rich-dude to come along and pay their exorbitant price. It hurts us all eventually because Grandpa now thinks his 1922 Buick is worth $90,000 or his 1919 Model T is worth $50,000 and refuses any reasonable offer from a young guy who likes old cars but doesn't have a seven-figure portfolio. What's wrong with a dealer making a reasonable profit, then allowing someone else to make a reasonable profit sometime later? Why jack up a price 100% or 200%? I will point out that some dealers do try to sell for a reasonable profit and provide a means for someone to find collector cars that otherwise might not be available. You know who are. My beef is with those trying to price gouge and drive prices up by hoarding desirable cars for sale at outrageous prices. When these dealers have driven the hobbiest out of car collecting, and the investor has moved onto other investments like modern art or tulip bulbs, there may be a glut of old cars on the market at low prices because the heirs want what they can get from Grandpa's Buick. (Or when gasoline is $20 a gallon . . . . ) It's like baseball cards or anything else. The value is determined by the demand. Once it becomes nearly impossible to drive these things anymore, once the majority of old car guys realize they can't afford this hobby and look for something else, once the millionaires go ga-ga over something other than old cars for investments, the prices will fall and dealers will have to get real jobs just like so many Real Estate agents today. This is America, and you can ask any price you want for what you are selling. It just hurts to see what was a broadly enjoyed hobby taken away from so many guys. It's still a fun hobby, but choices on what we can buy are drastically limited compared to what they used to be. End of rant Sorry but this strikes a nerve.

Hi all, I was looking at some photographs of a 1913 (?) Maxwell touring car. Odd thing is that it has only one pedal --- only the clutch pedal? (And a gas pedal to the far right). Not a separate clutch and brake like every other car. What's going on?? :-) --Scott

Hi all, Has anyone put an overdrive onto a 4-cylinder Dodge car? Mitchell makes an overdrive that goes into the torque tube of a Model A Ford. . . . I wonder if anyone has experimented with that sort of thing on a Dodge. Thanks -- Scott

1926 Packard Eight 5-passenger Phaeton for sale. Terrific car, tour proven, good looking. Needs nothing. See full description and photos on eBay through 5/19. Or look after the 19th see eBay completed auctions, auction number 180242259037 I'd attach a photo here, but I see no way to do that !! Oh well -- take a look on eBay. Some good photos.

For Sale --- cylinder head and manifolds from a standard Eight. Go to eBay auctions 180243096435 and 180243100155

Hi all, Anyone know what's involved with buying a pre-War old car, made in the USA like Ford, Buick, Chevrolet, and bringing it home to the USA? What happens when you try to cross the border into the US? What happens when you try to register the car at your local, friendly (ah- HEM) DMV office? Thanks -- Scott

Hi all, Anyone know what's involved with buying a pre-War old car, made in the USA like Ford, Buick, Chevrolet, and bringing it home to the USA? What happens when you try to cross the border into the US? What happens when you try to register the car at your local, friendly (ah- HEM) DMV office? Thanks -- Scott

Thanks --- I saw that one. I'm looking for something pretty much ready to drive, at least cosmetically. Authentically restored, etc. --Scott

How about a 1912 EMF Touring. All original, complete, unrestored, everything there. You could probably drive it as it is with some clean up. It's in an old weathered New England barn filled with farm implements, bales of hay, horse harnesses, poultry cages. This thing is exactly what guys found looking for cars in the 1930's and 1940's. The whole place is a time machine for a long forgotten era. I hope the owner never sells it, and never moves it. Just knowing that there is still a genuine old barn with a real antique car still in it that no one has ever touched and few people know about, is worth more than the cash the car would bring. I'd love to buy the whole place and just preserve it exactly as it is. --SD

"You can't find a better brass car than a Model T Ford! That was a statment from a Rolls-Royce owner who also had a 1909 T. You should be able to find a good driver/tour car for under $10,000." I agree that a Model T is probably the best brass car and that a lot of the big-dollar boys also have a T in the stable. But where can possibly get a brass T for under $10,000 anymore??? If you buy something under $10,000, you will surely need to put several thousand into it to make it tourable. I would love to find a nice 1913 Model T Touring, if anyone knows of one available ! --Scott

Thanks for your reply. Yes, I have a 1926 Packard Eight Phaeton. Only car at the moment. If you want to privately give me your parent's contact info, it will sure be helpful to know someone if I do take the job. Thanks very much. Not married, no kids but I don't have a lot of money for a new house. Prices in upstate New York are pretty low compared to Atlanta so what I get for mine probably won't buy anything down there. I don't need or even want a big house, but a 2+ car garage is a must. (of course !) I'll appreciate hearing others comments as well. --Scott

Hi all, I'll be interviewing for a job at Emory University in Atlanta sometime in the coming month. What is the old car scene like down there? I'm into pre-War cars --- mostly 1920's cars. How friendly is the government on registering an old car and annual inspections? Are they subject to high annual property taxes like in some states? Is there any pre-War antique car activity in clubs or tours? Brass car activity? Model T's? I hear traffic is absolutely horrendous. Is it nearly impossible to even drive an old car down there? And where should I look to live within an hour's commute of Emory? Of course, I want nice country roads to drive on. Thanks for your thoughts. Looking forward to the interview, and keeping an open mind to all else. --Scott

Hi all, I'll be interviewing for a job at Emory University in Atlanta sometime in the coming month. What is the old car scene like down there? I'm into pre-War cars --- mostly 1920's cars. How friendly is the government on registering an old car and annual inspections? Are they subject to high annual property taxes like in some states? Is there any pre-War antique car activity in clubs or tours? Brass car activity? Model T's? I hear traffic is absolutely horrendous. Is it nearly impossible to even drive an old car down there? And where should I look to live within an hour's commute of Emory? Of course, I want nice country roads to drive on. Thanks for your thoughts. Looking forward to the interview, and keeping an open mind to all else. --Scott

Hi all, Is there any do-it-yourself way to remove chrome from plated parts that are supposed to be nickel plated? My car has all of its brightwork chromed but being a 1924 is supposed to be nickel. I understand that there is nickel under the chrome as part of the chrome plating process. Can I remove only the chrome and retain the nickel? If I took it to a plater it will undoubtedly cost big bucks. --Scott

Hi all, Is there any do-it-yourself way to remove chrome from plated parts that are supposed to be nickel plated? A car that I am considering has all of its brightwork chromed but being a 1924 is supposed to be nickel. I understand that there is nickel under the chrome as part of the chrome plating process. Can I remove only the chrome and retain the nickel? If I took it to a plater it will undoubtedly cost big bucks. --Scott