scott12180

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Everything posted by scott12180

  1. I live in the US and am interested in a 1920's car which is in Canada, not far from where I live. Has anyone bought an antique car in Canada and brought it home recently? The car is American made. Is there anything to beware of when crossing the border back into the USA with a car on a trailer? How about registering the car back here? I'm in New York State. What are the hoops to jump through? And what about the financial arrangements? Any advice on payment over international borders? Thanks
  2. I'd like to install a heater for cold morning drives in a 1929 Packard. The car did not have one previously, so there is no drilled and tapped hole in the cylinder head. I've seen connections allowing you to attach a heater hose to the radiator outlet or inlet hose. See the attached photograph of a Cadillac with one of these. What are they called? I'm not sure how to find one or look one up if I don't know the name of the thing ! Any recommendations on where I could find something like this? Thanks --
  3. I'd like to install a heater for cold morning drives in a 1929 Packard. The car did not have one previously, so there is no drilled and tapped hole in the cylinder head. I've seen connections allowing you to attach a heater hose to the radiator outlet or inlet hose. See the attached photograph of a Cadillac with one of these. What are they called? I'm not sure how to find one or look one up if I don't know the name of the thing ! Any recommendations on where I could find something like this? Thanks --
  4. Good point --- yes, to be seated getting the price :-) , but do you truly want show-quality chrome or not. Has anyone used Paul's Chrome? Do they do "show-quality good" work? If not Paul's, any recommendations? Here's the point --- this is for an original car, or one which will never have show-quality paint. But the radiator is pretty rusty so it needs some help. It is possible to paint a car to look "old". Can you plate chrome to look like it's 85 years old? Any recommendations on who could do such a thing?
  5. Has anyone had a large radiator shell chrome plated recently? The car is a 1929 Packard, so it's pretty big. Can someone give a rough estimate of how much I should expect it to cost ?
  6. Considering buying a 1933 Packard 5-p Sedan from Newark Airport area of New Jersey. The car will go up to Albany, NY. Wondering if anyone out there would be willing to do the haul. Enclosed trailer needed but flexible dates. Just would like it home before too long because of winter coming. The Packard runs and is fully restored.
  7. 1938 Packard 1603 Super 8 Touring Sedan for sale. Unrestored, original car with continual maintenance. Solid car, good wood, all doors close like bank vaults. Original paint and nearly flawless upholstery and interior. Good running and driving car. Comes with a truckload of parts, including a complete, disassembled, '38 Su8 engine as well as some body parts. Being a Senior Packard, it's alot of car for Model A Ford money. Relocating, must sell. $22,000. The car is near Albany, New York. Please e-mail to dwyers@rpi.edu for a complete description and more photos.
  8. 1938 Packard 1603 Super 8 Touring Sedan for sale. Unrestored, original car with continual maintenance. Solid car, good wood, all doors close like bank vaults. Original paint and nearly flawless upholstery and interior. Good running and driving car. Being a Senior Packard, it's alot of car for Model A Ford money. Relocating, must sell. $22,000. Located near Albany, New York. Please e-mail to dwyers@rpi.edu
  9. A local acquaintance has a Stearns Knight which he'd like to sell. Very handsome car that I was quite interested in last year, but I hesitated because of the Knight engine. I am not at all familiar with these. I remember the car when it was on a small local tour as smoking terribly. The owner considerately drove at the rear of the pack, but it was not a good impression of the car. It appeared to be restored but to what degree the engine had been rebuilt, I do not know. I think he said he did have it apart. Frankly, I could not own a car which smoked like that. And these days, it would probably get you a traffic ticket. So could anyone give me a lesson on if this is normal, will it get better, will there always be some degree of smoke? If I was interested in the car, how could I tell if the smoking would go away eventually, or if I would likewise be stuck with a car that no one wanted due to the smokescreen? As I said, it's a lovely car but really scares me.
  10. Hi --- I'd like to find a good or restored steering wheel for a 1938 Super 8. Any idea who might have these things, or is it just a matter of watching eBay? Alternatively, can anyone recommend a recasting service for old steering wheels? This steering wheel is the white translucent ivory-type, and is the banjo style. Thanks -- Scott
  11. Hi All -- I have a 1938 Super 8 which I recently acquired. The car had a blown head gasket (it was one of those composite types) which I am now replacing with an asbestos-steel one. But while I am in there, I wonder about the oil cooler. I've heard that these things can be a problem, but the references I've heard pertain to a 1934. Is the oil cooler a problem for leakage on the later cars, like my 1938? If so, does anyone have a suggestion for blocking it off? It seems that it's in series with the oil filter, so in order to block the cooler means I'd block the filter as well. And how would I know if my oil cooler were bad in the first place? The previous owner said he found coolant in the oil, but I figure that's probably from the blown head gasket. I don't know if I have a problem or not with the cooler, but don't want more coolant leaking into the oil. Thanks --- --- Scott
  12. Would anyone be able to do a hauling job from Caribou, Maine to Albany, New York? The car is a big 1914 Touring. Thanks --- Scott
  13. This is an off the wall question, but I thought I'd ask. What are the chances that you could take a 1603 Packard with sidemounts and somehow change the car into a non-sidemount car? What would it involve? Finding new non-sidemount fenders? And is that a tall order? So many cars have sidemounts, but personally I dislike them enough to shy away from a car I like that has them. I'm also prompted to ask because I've known people to take non-sidemount cars and convert them to accept sidemounts. So I'm wondering if it's possible to do it the other way? Thanks
  14. For what it's worth, I think Matt's experience is more like what you'd expect. For me, it's not worth the hassle. The car would need to be a super desirable car that's reasonably priced and just about impossible to find in the States in my lifetime. Because of the border issues these days, I won't even drive into Canada as a shortcut from Buffalo to Detroit like I used to --- I go around through Cleveland. I may be too negative on this, but I've heard too many bad experiences. Form your own opinion based on others stories, and please let us know what you decide and especially how it went if you do bring the car home. I'd like to hear a happy ending.
  15. Has anyone ever bought a car from Fawcett Motors near Toronto, Canada? Just wondering about your experience with them and the car. Or do you know anything about them, their reputation, etc. Also, wondering about the logistics of buying in Canada from a dealer and transporting it to the States. Never done that before. Send private message if you'd prefer. --Scott
  16. Interesting thread , , , , quick comments: --- You should set your sights on cars which are in your comfortable cruising altitude. I can't afford Pope Hartfords and Silver Ghosts, so I don't even lust over them. But I can other afford medium-high end cars. Right now I want a 1914 Cadillac. Might be a stretch, but I can do it. --- Brass cars have gone steadily up in value for as long as I've been into the hobby. What I would have overpaid for even ten years ago would be considered cheap today. that said, like any investment, there is a risk that we are at the top of a bubble and the only place for prices to go now is down. --- That said, always buy what you love. Then if the value crashes, at least you have had a hell of a lot of fun and you still own something that makes your heart skip beats. --- Divorce is more expensive than cars. When I bellyached over the cost of rebuilding the engine on my 1914 Franklin, he said that at least I have something to look at in the garage. On his divorce she cleaned him out and he had nothing left to show for it. --- that said, maybe I'm lucky to be single (never married) but if you are married, you need to live with her, so you are forced to bend to her will at times. A wife who likes old cars is a pretty rare bird. You need to choose --- would you rather have a woman or a brass car. Once you've made the choice, just remember that you can't always have everything you want in life. --- It's OK to take out a loan to buy a car provided that you have the funds somewhere to cover it without losing your home or ability to feed yourself. Especially at today's interest rates, a loan might be a good way to achieve that dream. --- The 1%-ers and those who buy cars for $200k, $300k, $500k, $1M are not like us. They are investors or people who need to launder their money. You won't see a $300,000 brass car in the parking lot at Wal Mart or at the ice cream stand taking the neighborhood kids for a summer evening ride. When cars get to that altitude they become like high priced art works --- stashed away in climate controlled warehouses to be sold at some future auction to another 1%-er. Too bad, but that's how the hobby has devolved. ---My brass cars are are not Model T priced yet I do drive them everywhere and frequently. No matter what you own, drive it and have fun. It's not about what you own but the enjoyment you get from it.
  17. Got this from a non-car friend. Friend of his acquired it and would like to know what it is. I don't recognize it. Anyone know what it is?
  18. Can anyone tell me what model of Gemmer steering box was used on a 1930 Model L Lincoln, and if a rebuild kit (new worm and roller) is available? Or who I could contact regarding this? Thanks -- Scott
  19. Can anyone tell me what model of Gemmer steering box was used on a 1930 Model L Lincoln, and if a rebuild kit (new worm and roller) is available? Or who I could contact regarding this? Thanks -- Scott
  20. Could someone tell me if a 1924 Cadillac has a torque tube-enclosed drive shaft or does it have an open drive shaft? (With a U-joint at each end) I am mildly interested in a car which is for sale (far enough away to not look at it yet) and am wondering if it would be a good candidate for an overdrive.
  21. My magneto is an Eisemann --- EDAJ6 --- with automatic spark advance. The car is a 1914. Do you or does anyone know what the capacitance specs of the condenser are supposed to be? How many Farads and what maximum voltage? I spoke with the shop who did the rebuild and they are indeed interested in getting to the bottom of this, if I am experiencing a second condenser fail.
  22. Thanks. Interesting. Here's my problem: I have two magnetos, both restored by the same reputable person with the armatures rewound by the same concern, Chicago Magneto. With Mag One the car ran good at first, then the car ran worse and worse. It was accidental that I found severe arcing at the points while the engine was running, and I saw that the points were burned. The restoration shop accepted the magneto back and sent the armature back to Chicago Magneto. I received it, and now there is no points arcing. But I've put no miles on the mag yet. Mag Two was placed on the car when I shipped Mag One back. The car then ran great. But after several hundred miles performance is starting to decline. I looked at the points and there is some arcing at the points of this mag, Mag Two, which showed no arcing when I installed it. So I allegedly have two brand new armatures and condensers. One failed. And it's looking like number Two is beginning to fail. Is this a common occurrence? My question is, what is the source of the Chicago Magneto condensers? Are they something from China? And if so, then yes, I expect that after a few hundred miles they will fail. But I can't make accusations without any data. And there's no way for me to tell if condenser Two is failing without removing it to test. And even so, if it's the dielectric that is failing, it would test OK on the bench with a capacitance and ohm meter. Only under load do I give it the real test. Any recommendations? Any advice?
  23. Simply put, on an otherwise operational magneto, like a Bosch or Eisemann on a brass car, should you be able to see sparks or arcing at the points? I am thinking of a regular distributor in points-condenser ignition where if you manually break the points contact, you do see a tiny spark. And I know that the condenser is supposed to absorb most of that built-up energy in the coil to prevent a larger, damaging arc at the points. So in a magneto that has a condenser, with primary and secondary coils all wrapped up inside the armature, is it normal to see arcing at the points or inside the points case when the car is running?
  24. Seems like a pretty decent buy to me, considering all the parts he is giving away with it. (I am just listing it for him. I have nothing to do with the truck).