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scott12180

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Everything posted by scott12180

  1. "You can't find a better brass car than a Model T Ford! That was a statment from a Rolls-Royce owner who also had a 1909 T. You should be able to find a good driver/tour car for under $10,000." I agree that a Model T is probably the best brass car and that a lot of the big-dollar boys also have a T in the stable. But where can possibly get a brass T for under $10,000 anymore??? If you buy something under $10,000, you will surely need to put several thousand into it to make it tourable. I would love to find a nice 1913 Model T Touring, if anyone knows of one available ! --Scott
  2. Thanks for your reply. Yes, I have a 1926 Packard Eight Phaeton. Only car at the moment. If you want to privately give me your parent's contact info, it will sure be helpful to know someone if I do take the job. Thanks very much. Not married, no kids but I don't have a lot of money for a new house. Prices in upstate New York are pretty low compared to Atlanta so what I get for mine probably won't buy anything down there. I don't need or even want a big house, but a 2+ car garage is a must. (of course !) I'll appreciate hearing others comments as well. --Scott
  3. Hi all, I'll be interviewing for a job at Emory University in Atlanta sometime in the coming month. What is the old car scene like down there? I'm into pre-War cars --- mostly 1920's cars. How friendly is the government on registering an old car and annual inspections? Are they subject to high annual property taxes like in some states? Is there any pre-War antique car activity in clubs or tours? Brass car activity? Model T's? I hear traffic is absolutely horrendous. Is it nearly impossible to even drive an old car down there? And where should I look to live within an hour's commut
  4. Hi all, I'll be interviewing for a job at Emory University in Atlanta sometime in the coming month. What is the old car scene like down there? I'm into pre-War cars --- mostly 1920's cars. How friendly is the government on registering an old car and annual inspections? Are they subject to high annual property taxes like in some states? Is there any pre-War antique car activity in clubs or tours? Brass car activity? Model T's? I hear traffic is absolutely horrendous. Is it nearly impossible to even drive an old car down there? And where should I look to live within an hour's commut
  5. Hi all, Is there any do-it-yourself way to remove chrome from plated parts that are supposed to be nickel plated? My car has all of its brightwork chromed but being a 1924 is supposed to be nickel. I understand that there is nickel under the chrome as part of the chrome plating process. Can I remove only the chrome and retain the nickel? If I took it to a plater it will undoubtedly cost big bucks. --Scott
  6. Hi all, Is there any do-it-yourself way to remove chrome from plated parts that are supposed to be nickel plated? A car that I am considering has all of its brightwork chromed but being a 1924 is supposed to be nickel. I understand that there is nickel under the chrome as part of the chrome plating process. Can I remove only the chrome and retain the nickel? If I took it to a plater it will undoubtedly cost big bucks. --Scott
  7. Hi all, Forgive me for not following the group religiously, but I now have the opportunity to acquire a friend's 1938 Buick Special Two-Door so high speed gears comes to mind again. A while ago there was discussion about making high speed rear axle gears for these cars to improve on the 4.41 stock ratio. I would certainly want a set if I bought the '38. Has anything come of that? Is someone making these gears, or what was decided or what was the consensus? Would a Mitchell overdrive fit under a '38? They are a pretty nice unit. --Scott Troy, NY
  8. 1926 Packard 236 Phaeton. Powerful Eight cylinder 5-passenger open car with a Mitchell overdrive and 4.27 rear end. Recent engine rebuild. Perfect mechanical condition. Car has been driven many thousands of reliable miles all over New York and New England. Well sorted out mechanically. Older restoration (1980's when it received new paint and leather) that is holding up well. Nice mild patina of careful enjoyment. Terrific tour car. Has full side curtains and demountable tonneau windshield. Has correct carburetor, vacuum tank, distributor, Skinner Rectifier, and all other components.
  9. Has anyone used a Southwind gasoline heater in an old car in modern times? Are they simple to plumb in and relativly safe to use? The application is a 1936 Ford. They seem to be an easy solution to an unheated cabin but, well, I don't know. Too good to be true? Any thougts appreciated. --Scott
  10. Hi all, I'm going to look at a 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 with a Cummins Turbo Diesel (12 valve) engine. The truck has nearly 200,000 miles on it. It appears to be very clean and well taken care of, but I don't know the history. I've heard that these engines suffer fuel pump failures at high milage and this is a $1500 repair. Any comments on if this is true? Anything else to be aware of? Is 200,000 miles alot for this truck? I don't want to be continually doing repairs. Or are these things pretty tough? --Scott
  11. Seems many of you like the Dodge Cummins diesel. I've had alot of respect for Cummins engines and this sounds like an interesting option. How many miles on one of these is considered high? There's one on E-Bay now in New Jersey with 144,000. (auction # 180157460969 )Are they all tapped out by then and ready for major repairs? Or what? I guess what I'm wondering, if I can't have a new or very low milage one, how many miles do you think is "too much" ? Thanks -- Scott
  12. Hi, Thanks for the recommendation on Earl's Suburban. I doubt that a 2004 can be had for around $10,000. Plus, I think a pickup will serve me better. I appreciate the suggestion, though. Thanks again. --Scott
  13. Hi all, I need to find a new modern car and figure that I ought to get a truck capable of towing a trailer with an old car loaded. I've never owned a tow vehicle so I'd like your recommendations on what I should buy. I'm NOT buying a new truck. Can't afford that. I'd like to get something for around $10,000 max. I won't use it much other than going to the store ocasionally to keep the juices flowing, and towing two or three times a year. I figure on mostly an open trailer with a lightweight car, like a Franklin or Model T. However, maybe I should look for something capable of towing an
  14. When you replace the oil pan with the pump attached, be very careful to make sure that the drive for the oil pump fits into its slot --- in other words, the driven shaft of the oil pump which is like a slotted screwdriver should fit into its driver mate attached to the engine. If you don't have these lined up you can crush the oil pump or otherwise damage something. Very good advice to look at the bearings. Old babbitt is like glass -- very hard and brittle and prone to catastrophic failure. --Scott
  15. In Murray Fahnestock's (sp?) book published in the 1920's, there is a short mention of an eight cylinder Model T Center Door Sedan. An Eight would be easier to do than a Six. With a little more effort, you could split one block in two and weld it to the front and back of a standard block. With the cranks at 90 degrees, the resulting configuration would be a 2-4-2, which was the same configuration that the first Packard Eights used in the early 1920's. In Fahnestock's book, they simply put two fours back to front, but commented that the result wasn't very satisfactory. If I had the money
  16. The exhaust pipe does come out on the driver's side. It takes a bend in the rear to go from the right to the left side. Don't know why, but that's the way it is. Had the car out yesterday for a nice ride. Running well. Stopped in to see an old farmer who recently restored his 1917 Model T Ford which he has owned for 59 years. Had a nice ride. He liked the Packard.
  17. Looking to buy a 1915 or 1916 Franklin Series 8. Earlier six-cylinder Franklins also of interest. Will consider any body style or condition. Any leads appreciated. Thanks ---- Scott dwyers@rpi.edu 518-276-8414
  18. Oops --- crossed in the mail. Thanks again, Jay, for posting the photos!! --Scott
  19. I will have to send you photographs in a personal e-mail. Perhaps someone cah help me --- how do I post a photo on this forum? When I click on the "add image" icon, it wants an html address. huh??? All I want to do is add an attachment. I don't see how to do that. Anyway, if anyone wants photos, please ask. --Scott
  20. Thanks for the compliment. Yes, indeed, that 1932 Victoria is knock-out handsome. I cannot claim that I chose the paint colors --- they are as close to the original colors as the previous owner could find. It came out very well. And it's holding up remarkably well, too. At one time I was hot for a 1940 Packard -- I like the looks of the car being the last year for separate headlights. But I've learned that my tastes run more toward earlier cars. I have a 1926 Eight Phaeton which I love. If I buy another car it will be pre-1929 and hopefully earlier. --Scott
  21. Yes, I had this for sale about two or three months ago. I put new bearings in the engine over the winter, then when I drove it decided that it needed to have new pistons as well because the originals were OK but marginal. (I heard some piston slap.) Since the last post I had the cylinders rebored to 0.020" over and installed a set of new Arias pistons. I didn't feel right about selling the car while it still was in need of something. As far as I know, this car needs nothing except the normal maintenance and tinkering we all do. --Scott
  22. 1932 Packard 902 Victoria Coupe. Classic Car Club First Place #1787. Very handsome, properly restored car from a particularly solid and sound original. Dark green and midnight blue on black, proper tan broadcloth upholstery. New engine bearings, new Arias pistons, valves, new waterpump by O&G, rebuilt Detroit Lubricator carburetor by "Old Carb Doc". Bedford blackwall tires with authentic tread design. Runs and drives very nicely. Plenty of power and pep. Heater for comfortable touring in all weather conditions. Asking $55,000. Scott Dwyer Troy, New York dwyers@rpi.edu 518-276-8414 leave m
  23. The type of motor oil depends on how you intend to use the car. If you aren't going to drive it much and do not intend to take the engine apart for any sort of repairs, then use non-detergent oil and change it often. (Every 500 miles or once a year). However, I would strongly recommend that you drop the oil pan and clean out all of the accumulated sludge that you possibly can so as to get it out of the circulatory system. While in there, pull out the pistons to inspect the connecting rod bearings and, if at all possible, check the main bearings as well. The reason is that old original babb
  24. In the past I have commented that the Mitchell overdrive on my 236 Packard Phaeton was very noisy --- alot of gear noise which got quite loud at times. I hated to drive with the top up ! I must make a public apology to Mitchell by saying that to my great surprise the noise was not from the overdrive but the differential ! I never suspected that a Packard differential could make such a howlingly loud gear noise and for the past four years just assumed it was the overdrive. But apparently someone had been into my differntial before I acquired the car and did not know what they were doing. I
  25. Hello -- I am thinking of installing a set of Phil Bray's high speed ring and pinion gears into my 1932 Packard. I know that installation of these is a precision operation and not something for the shade-tree mechanic. Does anyone know of an exerienced man in the northeast who I could inquire to? I live near Albany and would like to find someone within 100 miles or so. I can remove the differential and bring it to whomever can do the set-up. On the other hand, has anyone done this themselves? Just how difficult is it? Should I try it myself? I've rebuilt a coule of engines, so I'm a li
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