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scott12180

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Everything posted by scott12180

  1. Hi all, I'm going to look at a Packard 120 that is for sale. Can someone give a few comments on the reliability, driveability, parts availability, etc. of the 120 model? This car is a 1939. Any commments on things to look for or watch out for on a 1939? Is there a year people think is a better year or best year for the Packard 120? I'm looking for a good "daily driver" car and not a show car. Appreciate your thoughts --Scott
  2. I'm working on a 1926 Packard Eight. I need to make new valve spring retainers and keys for the slotted valve stems because the original ones were discarded by a previous owner. Do I need to make these spring retainers and valve stem keys out of hardened steel, or can they be non-hardened steel? SHOULD they be NON-hardened?? MUST they be hardened? I bought the keys from Egge but am surprised that they are a very soft steel. Our machinist thinks there is no need for the retainers and keys to be hardened because there is no movement between mating surfaces. Only inertial loading. A friend i
  3. I'm working on a 1926 Packard Eight. I need to make new valve spring retainers and keys for the slotted valve stems because the original ones were discarded by a previous owner. Do I need to make these spring retainers and valve stem keys out of hardened steel, or can they be non-hardened steel? SHOULD they be NON-hardened?? MUST they be hardened? I bought the keys from Egge but am surprised that they are a very soft steel. Our machinist thinks there is no need for the retainers and keys to be hardened because there is no movement between mating surfaces. Only inertial loading. A friend i
  4. Hello -- I am working on a 1926 Packard Eight and am interested in any parts that may be available. I would espcially like to find a parts car, a complete chassis or an engine. Also a radiator shell and headlamps. --Scott
  5. Hello -- I am working on a 1926 Packard Eight and am interested in any parts that may be available. I would espcially like to find a parts car, a complete chassis or an engine. Also a radiator shell and headlamps. --Scott
  6. I wonder if that figure of 0.08 is accurate, or even at all based on fact. I believe that it is a fabrication by the defense lawyers to exonerate their client and shift all the blame onto the Duesenberg. I mean, it is very suspicious that the intoxication limit is 0.08 and the Duesenberg driver's blood alcohol was also 0.08. But even if the driver was intoxicated, it in no way should legitize the crime of the Volvo driver. --Scott
  7. I'm working on a 1926 Packard Eight. I posted to this group (probably the Packard or Classic group) before on this engine. I've rebabbitted all eight rods, checked the mains and they are all good with 0.002" clearance, I'm having the cylinders bored and new pistons installed, a couple new valves, a handfull of new guides....etc. Since the mains are all good, I don't want to pull the crankcase out --- too much for me to handle in my garage. So, I'll remove of as much sludge as I conveniently can. All this started with a subtle knock that went away when oil pressure built up. I'm glad I pai
  8. If you are rebuilding a large old engine (1920's) but not removing the crankcase and crankshaft --- leaving the crankcase in the car --- what would you do about the accumulated oil sludge which coats everything in the crankcase? Wipe it off as best you can with kerosene and a cloth, or just leave it alone and let detergent oil gradually clean it off? I hate putting the engine back together with all the sludge inside, but some people have warned that it you disturb it, what you can't remove could come off in chuncks which would be bad. --Scott
  9. Hello, Can someone tell me the original compression height (wrist pin center to top) of a piston for a 1st or 2nd series Eight Packard, 1925-1926? (3-3/8" bore.) Perhaps someone has an original Packard piston that can be measured? Thanks --- Scott
  10. Thanks for the advice. Kanter has mostly parts for post-1929 cars, so they were no help. However, Olson's in Seattle did have NOS gaskets. So I'm all set. Thanks very much. --Scott
  11. Hello, Can someone suggest where I could find a head gasket for a 1926 Packard Eight Cylinder engine? Second series Eight, Model 236. Thanks very much --- Scott
  12. My oil pressure with the worn bearings was as high as I wanted it. In other words, I could increase the pressure to beyond 50 pounds, if I set the pump that high. When driving, the pressure would stay the same. Very little variation. After some experimenting I found that 40 pounds was a comforable pressure and left it there. Older Packard connecting rod bearings have no side play on the crankshaft journal. The babbitted rod bearing sits quite confortably into a recessed space on the crankshaft eliminating side play. That could be why oil pressure remains high even if the rods are as much
  13. I do agree that insert bearings in the connecting rods are probably the best way to go. There are those in the professional business who disagree, however. My own feeling is that babitt for bearings in older engines is fine provided that you do not run the engine too hard. There are businesses that specialize in replacing babitt -- "The Babitt Pot" in Glens Falls, NY is one. If the babbitt is relativly new, then if run hard or under large clearances, it will "pound out" producing ever larger clearances. If the babbitt is ancient (from the 1920's or earlier) and the rods get too loose the
  14. Very interesting. I didn't know about that detail of early Chrysler brakes. Thanks. You're right -- even the first Model T's had internal expanding rear brakes, but they were simply cast iron shoes, no lining, operating against pressed-steel drums. Hardly worth anything even in an "emergency". They were OK as parking brakes, though. Four wheel brakes were like the electric starter. Once one major manufacturer started to use it successfully, soon everyone had to have them to stay in the game. I'm not an expert here, but I would guess that by 1925 most manufacturers had four wheel brakes
  15. Although I can't answer your questions accurately, I can say that Packard began to use four wheel brakes made by Bendix in 1923. They were internal expanding, three shoes --- two self-energized for the forward drection, one for reverse. Chrysler adopted four wheel brakes with its new Six in 1924 (January 1924). They used Lockheed and I'm sure they were internal expanding. --Scott
  16. This reply is carried over from "Stink'en NY inspection stickers!" "Silverghost" replied that he was insured through JC Taylor when he was 17 years old. I was too, except I was only 16 when I first put my Model T on the road. Only problem: that was about 30 years ago. When I registered my 1926 Packard two years ago, all of the antique car insurance companies I contacted had exclusions for anyone under 25 years old. No one would insure a younger driver and there was nothing to be done about it. If you are under 25, you aren't allowed to drive an antique car. Huh??? I don't have a kid that
  17. Hi, I have a 1926 Packard Eight. What should the connecting rod bearing clearances be? These are the original babbit bearings. I have measured 0.004 - 0.006" on two rods so far. Is that excessive? What can I do? There are no shims in the caps. I do have a knock on start-up which disappears when oil pressure builds, and that odd noise I sometimes hear around 25 mph I am now thinking may be the rods. Thanks --- Scott
  18. Hi, I have a 1926 Packard Eight. What should the connecting rod bearing clearances be? These are the original babbit bearings. I have measured 0.004 - 0.006" on two rods so far. Is that excessive? What can I do? There are no shims in the caps. I do have a knock on start-up which disappears when oil pressure builds, and that odd noise I sometimes hear around 25 mph I am now thinking may be the rods. Thanks --- Scott
  19. I think the very best driving Twin Six is the third series because by then they ironed out all the problems and produced a truly robust car. The first series with non-detachable heads is a bit of a problem although how often do you really need to remove the head?? Valves are acessible through screw-caps. The bigger problem is that the first series Twin tends to have a somewhat inadequate cooling syetem. This got better with the second series, and by the third series they really increased cooling capacity. However, I've been told that if you install a new radiator and have the engine tuned w
  20. On the overdrive, mine is a Mitchell unit. Made in California by a small family-run business. Nice folks. They originally made these things for motor homes and trucks, then branched out into antique cars when they realized there was a need. They come in a variety of four gearings --- something like 26%, 33%, one lower and one higher. I forget. You can change gears even after you buy the unit, which is nice. I got the 26% overdrive. I still sometimes wish I could have a higher speed, but I live in western New England and upstate New York with lots of hills and a great many slow country
  21. Well, yes, theoretically a Twin will go as fast as 70 mph. When the Twin was announced it was driven around the speedway at Indianapolis, reaching 70 mph with top and windshield up, so they are capable. But you certainly don't want to push an 85 year old car that fast. They are still geared rather low to suit the conditions of the day. The ones that I drove seemed comfortable at 40-45. It's the babbit in the engine bearings that gets pounded at high speeds. Remember these things have a long stroke, so that's alot of mass slinging around in there. The last thing you want is to throw a rod o
  22. Hi Steve, There are a number of Twin Sixes around but I don't see them driven. I think the brakes are the big issue, as they are a heavy car with two wheel brakes only. Fuel is not a problem. They should cruise nicely at 40 - 45 as you would expect. The problem is tring to stop them. That and alot of owners are now elderly and have a hard time handling a substantial car. And, too I guess, parts just aren't as plentiful as with later cars. And.... (I keep thinking of things) for all but the 1915's, there isn't a club hosting tours for Twins to participate with their own vintage, so you see t
  23. Hi, Is the 1938 Buick Special a car that could really use an overdrive or high speed gears if it has the stock rear end? Is it very hard to find the rear axle from a Century or some other faster-geared car? Can I install an overdrive? Who makes one that fits? I'm looking for a 1938 and find there are alot of Specials around, but relativly few Centuries or Roadmasters. I was hoping for a car that would be able to do 55-60 without the engine screaming. --Scott
  24. Hi all, Is there a way to remove water stains from the headliner of a Sedan? The car, a 1934 Pierce-Arrow, had a roof leak in a rainstorm a few years ago which wet the headliner near the rear window. The owners did not do anything to remove the stains at the time. Can the stains be removed at all?? Thanks --- Scott
  25. Hi all, Is there a way to remove water stains from the headliner of a Sedan? The car had a roof leak in a rainstorm a few years ago which wet the headliner near the rear window. The owners did not do anything to remove the stains. Can they be removed at all?? Thanks --- Scott
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