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scott12180

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Everything posted by scott12180

  1. Ok, so I don't know how to post photographs. I'll try this way --- K & G Wheel puller wanted, just like this one. This fits 2-3/4" hubs on 1920's cars. --Scott
  2. Hi all, Could someone offer a few comments on the roadability and parts availability of a 1932 Buick Model 60? I know of one for sale, but am not a Buick man and have never driven one. Are they good road cars? (compared to, say, a 1938 which I have driven.) What is a comfortable cruising speed? Can an overdrive be installed? And how about parts availability? I know later Buicks have good avaiability of just about everything, but how about the earlier ones? Thanks, --Scott
  3. One car is close (150 miles on the train), the other car is pretty far. Far enough that I am beginning to doubt that I will be able to go see it, as appealing as it is. Can someone comment on the reliability of the column shift, a first for 1939? What is a comfortable cruising speed without overdrive? And are overdrives available for these cars so that I could install one later, or are they just about non-existant? Someone said that for 1939, the one I want is unique to that year. --Scott
  4. I've been concerned about using lap-only seat belts in any car. I'm no expert, but it seems to me that in a head-on crash, the lap belt will cause your body to "jackknife", throwing your chest against the steering column and head who-knows-where. That doesn't sound gentle. Didn't someone do a study years ago concluding that lap belts can be worse than no seat belt at all? I would think that if you want to install seat belts that the lap+shoulder is the only way to do it. Hard to do on an open car, though. --Scott
  5. The condition of the two cars is similar but not the same. They both are on the road and ready to drive. The 120 is low(lower) milage at 44,000 and allegedly quite a nice all original, well preserved and well taken care of car. Blled as needing nothing. The Super 8 is higher milage at 88,000 and has a few minor issues like upholstery, steering wheel, etc. Probably little problems associated with high milage will come up. But it is also billed as a daily driver, needing nothing. Neither car has had the engine rebuilt, to my knowledge. --Scott
  6. Hi. Can comeone tell me the differences between a Packard 120 and the Super Eight of 1939? Am I right that by 1939 they used the same bodies? Is the chassis the same except for the engine? If I have an opportunity to buy either one, any recommendations for someone who wants a reliable daily driver car? Thanks -- Scott
  7. Hi all, I'm going to look at a Packard 120 that is for sale. Can someone give a few comments on the reliability, driveability, parts availability, etc. of the 120 model? This car is a 1939. Any commments on things to look for or watch out for on a 1939? Is there a year people think is a better year or best year for the Packard 120? I'm looking for a good "daily driver" car and not a show car. Appreciate your thoughts --Scott
  8. I'm working on a 1926 Packard Eight. I need to make new valve spring retainers and keys for the slotted valve stems because the original ones were discarded by a previous owner. Do I need to make these spring retainers and valve stem keys out of hardened steel, or can they be non-hardened steel? SHOULD they be NON-hardened?? MUST they be hardened? I bought the keys from Egge but am surprised that they are a very soft steel. Our machinist thinks there is no need for the retainers and keys to be hardened because there is no movement between mating surfaces. Only inertial loading. A friend i
  9. I'm working on a 1926 Packard Eight. I need to make new valve spring retainers and keys for the slotted valve stems because the original ones were discarded by a previous owner. Do I need to make these spring retainers and valve stem keys out of hardened steel, or can they be non-hardened steel? SHOULD they be NON-hardened?? MUST they be hardened? I bought the keys from Egge but am surprised that they are a very soft steel. Our machinist thinks there is no need for the retainers and keys to be hardened because there is no movement between mating surfaces. Only inertial loading. A friend i
  10. Hello -- I am working on a 1926 Packard Eight and am interested in any parts that may be available. I would espcially like to find a parts car, a complete chassis or an engine. Also a radiator shell and headlamps. --Scott
  11. Hello -- I am working on a 1926 Packard Eight and am interested in any parts that may be available. I would espcially like to find a parts car, a complete chassis or an engine. Also a radiator shell and headlamps. --Scott
  12. I wonder if that figure of 0.08 is accurate, or even at all based on fact. I believe that it is a fabrication by the defense lawyers to exonerate their client and shift all the blame onto the Duesenberg. I mean, it is very suspicious that the intoxication limit is 0.08 and the Duesenberg driver's blood alcohol was also 0.08. But even if the driver was intoxicated, it in no way should legitize the crime of the Volvo driver. --Scott
  13. I'm working on a 1926 Packard Eight. I posted to this group (probably the Packard or Classic group) before on this engine. I've rebabbitted all eight rods, checked the mains and they are all good with 0.002" clearance, I'm having the cylinders bored and new pistons installed, a couple new valves, a handfull of new guides....etc. Since the mains are all good, I don't want to pull the crankcase out --- too much for me to handle in my garage. So, I'll remove of as much sludge as I conveniently can. All this started with a subtle knock that went away when oil pressure built up. I'm glad I pai
  14. If you are rebuilding a large old engine (1920's) but not removing the crankcase and crankshaft --- leaving the crankcase in the car --- what would you do about the accumulated oil sludge which coats everything in the crankcase? Wipe it off as best you can with kerosene and a cloth, or just leave it alone and let detergent oil gradually clean it off? I hate putting the engine back together with all the sludge inside, but some people have warned that it you disturb it, what you can't remove could come off in chuncks which would be bad. --Scott
  15. Hello, Can someone tell me the original compression height (wrist pin center to top) of a piston for a 1st or 2nd series Eight Packard, 1925-1926? (3-3/8" bore.) Perhaps someone has an original Packard piston that can be measured? Thanks --- Scott
  16. Thanks for the advice. Kanter has mostly parts for post-1929 cars, so they were no help. However, Olson's in Seattle did have NOS gaskets. So I'm all set. Thanks very much. --Scott
  17. Hello, Can someone suggest where I could find a head gasket for a 1926 Packard Eight Cylinder engine? Second series Eight, Model 236. Thanks very much --- Scott
  18. My oil pressure with the worn bearings was as high as I wanted it. In other words, I could increase the pressure to beyond 50 pounds, if I set the pump that high. When driving, the pressure would stay the same. Very little variation. After some experimenting I found that 40 pounds was a comforable pressure and left it there. Older Packard connecting rod bearings have no side play on the crankshaft journal. The babbitted rod bearing sits quite confortably into a recessed space on the crankshaft eliminating side play. That could be why oil pressure remains high even if the rods are as much
  19. I do agree that insert bearings in the connecting rods are probably the best way to go. There are those in the professional business who disagree, however. My own feeling is that babitt for bearings in older engines is fine provided that you do not run the engine too hard. There are businesses that specialize in replacing babitt -- "The Babitt Pot" in Glens Falls, NY is one. If the babbitt is relativly new, then if run hard or under large clearances, it will "pound out" producing ever larger clearances. If the babbitt is ancient (from the 1920's or earlier) and the rods get too loose the
  20. Very interesting. I didn't know about that detail of early Chrysler brakes. Thanks. You're right -- even the first Model T's had internal expanding rear brakes, but they were simply cast iron shoes, no lining, operating against pressed-steel drums. Hardly worth anything even in an "emergency". They were OK as parking brakes, though. Four wheel brakes were like the electric starter. Once one major manufacturer started to use it successfully, soon everyone had to have them to stay in the game. I'm not an expert here, but I would guess that by 1925 most manufacturers had four wheel brakes
  21. Although I can't answer your questions accurately, I can say that Packard began to use four wheel brakes made by Bendix in 1923. They were internal expanding, three shoes --- two self-energized for the forward drection, one for reverse. Chrysler adopted four wheel brakes with its new Six in 1924 (January 1924). They used Lockheed and I'm sure they were internal expanding. --Scott
  22. This reply is carried over from "Stink'en NY inspection stickers!" "Silverghost" replied that he was insured through JC Taylor when he was 17 years old. I was too, except I was only 16 when I first put my Model T on the road. Only problem: that was about 30 years ago. When I registered my 1926 Packard two years ago, all of the antique car insurance companies I contacted had exclusions for anyone under 25 years old. No one would insure a younger driver and there was nothing to be done about it. If you are under 25, you aren't allowed to drive an antique car. Huh??? I don't have a kid that
  23. Hi, I have a 1926 Packard Eight. What should the connecting rod bearing clearances be? These are the original babbit bearings. I have measured 0.004 - 0.006" on two rods so far. Is that excessive? What can I do? There are no shims in the caps. I do have a knock on start-up which disappears when oil pressure builds, and that odd noise I sometimes hear around 25 mph I am now thinking may be the rods. Thanks --- Scott
  24. Hi, I have a 1926 Packard Eight. What should the connecting rod bearing clearances be? These are the original babbit bearings. I have measured 0.004 - 0.006" on two rods so far. Is that excessive? What can I do? There are no shims in the caps. I do have a knock on start-up which disappears when oil pressure builds, and that odd noise I sometimes hear around 25 mph I am now thinking may be the rods. Thanks --- Scott
  25. I think the very best driving Twin Six is the third series because by then they ironed out all the problems and produced a truly robust car. The first series with non-detachable heads is a bit of a problem although how often do you really need to remove the head?? Valves are acessible through screw-caps. The bigger problem is that the first series Twin tends to have a somewhat inadequate cooling syetem. This got better with the second series, and by the third series they really increased cooling capacity. However, I've been told that if you install a new radiator and have the engine tuned w
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