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scott12180

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Everything posted by scott12180

  1. On the overdrive, mine is a Mitchell unit. Made in California by a small family-run business. Nice folks. They originally made these things for motor homes and trucks, then branched out into antique cars when they realized there was a need. They come in a variety of four gearings --- something like 26%, 33%, one lower and one higher. I forget. You can change gears even after you buy the unit, which is nice. I got the 26% overdrive. I still sometimes wish I could have a higher speed, but I live in western New England and upstate New York with lots of hills and a great many slow country
  2. Well, yes, theoretically a Twin will go as fast as 70 mph. When the Twin was announced it was driven around the speedway at Indianapolis, reaching 70 mph with top and windshield up, so they are capable. But you certainly don't want to push an 85 year old car that fast. They are still geared rather low to suit the conditions of the day. The ones that I drove seemed comfortable at 40-45. It's the babbit in the engine bearings that gets pounded at high speeds. Remember these things have a long stroke, so that's alot of mass slinging around in there. The last thing you want is to throw a rod o
  3. Hi Steve, There are a number of Twin Sixes around but I don't see them driven. I think the brakes are the big issue, as they are a heavy car with two wheel brakes only. Fuel is not a problem. They should cruise nicely at 40 - 45 as you would expect. The problem is tring to stop them. That and alot of owners are now elderly and have a hard time handling a substantial car. And, too I guess, parts just aren't as plentiful as with later cars. And.... (I keep thinking of things) for all but the 1915's, there isn't a club hosting tours for Twins to participate with their own vintage, so you see t
  4. Hi, Is the 1938 Buick Special a car that could really use an overdrive or high speed gears if it has the stock rear end? Is it very hard to find the rear axle from a Century or some other faster-geared car? Can I install an overdrive? Who makes one that fits? I'm looking for a 1938 and find there are alot of Specials around, but relativly few Centuries or Roadmasters. I was hoping for a car that would be able to do 55-60 without the engine screaming. --Scott
  5. Hi all, Is there a way to remove water stains from the headliner of a Sedan? The car, a 1934 Pierce-Arrow, had a roof leak in a rainstorm a few years ago which wet the headliner near the rear window. The owners did not do anything to remove the stains at the time. Can the stains be removed at all?? Thanks --- Scott
  6. Hi all, Is there a way to remove water stains from the headliner of a Sedan? The car had a roof leak in a rainstorm a few years ago which wet the headliner near the rear window. The owners did not do anything to remove the stains. Can they be removed at all?? Thanks --- Scott
  7. I should also add that installing high speed gears is not as trivial as removing the old ones and bolting the new ones in. Differential ring and pinion gears need to be fitted. The contact patch of one tooth of the pinion needs to be just right to the corresponding toothvalley of the ring --- exactly where on the tooth the contact is, the heel and toe adjustment, etc. If done incorrectly the differential will be noisy and the gears could fail. There is literature out there outlining how to do it, but for best results I'd get a professional, unless you are willing to invest the time learing
  8. I have a 1926 Packard Eight Phaeton to which I installed a Mitchell overdrive. The Mitchell unit does not require an additional gear shift. I mounted a push-pull cable under the dash which is very unobtrusive and works well. I would opt for the overdrive because I live in hilly country (New England) and frequently prefer the standard ratios over 2nd in OD. Mitchell has the advantage that you can choose from a wide variety of ratios. I chose a 26% reduction because I never drive on highways so keeping up with the SUV's at 70 mph is not a priority. My 26% Mitchell lets me criuse easilly at 4
  9. Hi all, Can someone give me a clue as to what the value of a 1934 Pierce Arrow 836-A 5-passenger Sedan would be? The car is just about perfect mechanically. It's fully restored, sorted out and toured. The body is also restored with some water stains on the headliner from a leak that is now repaired. Otherwise, cosmetically it's authentic and very good. Not concours, I'd say it's a solid number Two condition... or optimistically between number One and number Two. Thanks for any insight. --Scott
  10. Any suggestions on how I can remove the rear wheel (brake drum and hub) from a taper axle shaft on a 1926 Packard? My wheel puller, which screws onto the hub cap threads, slips off because the wheel is so tight. Any suggestions appreciated. I need to get at those brakes ! --Scott
  11. Any sugestions on how to remove a stubborn rear wheel from a taper axle shaft? It's so tight that my wheel puller slips off the screw-on hubcap threads, so I can't get a grip on it. The car is a 1926 Packard. Advice appreciated !! I need to get at those brakes! --Scott
  12. Hi all, I own a 1926 Packard and need to remove the rear wheels to inspect the brakes, replace an oil seal, etc. The right side comes off fine, but someone overtightened the left side (apparently) and I just can't get the wheel off. My wheel puller slips on the hubcap threads because they've been buggered up, so that's kind of useless. Any suggestions? Any particular kind of wheel puller that really GRIPS the hubcap threads and won't slip off? Other tricks to get a wheel off? --Scott
  13. Does anyone have any experience with buying an American-make car in Europe and shipping it back to the States? I would like to go through a third-party broker of some sort who can look at the car and oversee the payment, the loading, shipping and the paperwork nightmare that will probably happen once it reaches our shores. Ideally, I'd like to have the car shipped right to my door in New York State. The car is a 1920's Packard with a body style that isn't too common over here, hence my interest in this car which is in Belgium. But perhaps this process is just too cost prohibitive? I don't
  14. Hi, Could anyone out there tell me the bearing area size on a 1st or 2nd Series Packard Eight? I'd like to know the rod bearing width and the diameter of the crankshaft at the connecting rods. Thanks alot! --Scott Troy, NY
  15. Hello, Has anyone had experience with Bob Jefferson and his restoration shop north of Boston? I beleve he calls himself "Sports Cars Unlimited". Would you say that on mechanical work he is good? Has anyone had a bad experience? I'm thinking of buying a car that has had an engine rebuild by Jefferson. Thanks -- Scott
  16. Hello, Has anyone had experience with Bob Jefferson and his restoration shop north of Boston? I believe he calls himself "Sports Cars Unlimited". Would you say that on mechanical work he is good? Has anyone had a bad experience? I'm thinking of buying a car that has had an engine rebuild by Jefferson. Thanks -- Scott
  17. Hi all, Can someone give me an estimate for how much a Packard Straight Eight engine weighs? No transmission. Big eight -- 3-1/2" x 5" bore stroke. Good guesses welcome, too. Thanks, --Scott
  18. Hi all, I've located a spare straight-eight engine for my car down in Florida. Any suggestions how I can ship it from there to my home near Albany, New York? --Scott
  19. Hi all, For 1911, Reo made three models. According to Bev Kime's "Standard Catalog", there was a Model 25 (98" wheelbase), and a Model 30 and Model 35, both with 108" wheelbase. How can you tell the Model 30 apart from the Model 35 by looking at the car? What was the engine bore and stroke of the Model 30 versus the Model 35? Thanks ---- Scott
  20. Hi all, For 1911, Reo made three models. According to Bev Kime's "Standard Catalog", there was a Model 25 (98" wheelbase), and a Model 30 and Model 35, both with 108" wheelbase. How can you tell the Model 30 apart from the Model 35 by looking at the car? What was the engine bore and stroke of the Model 30 versus the Model 35? Thanks ---- Scott
  21. Hi all, For 1911, Reo made three models. According to Bev Kime's "Standard Catalog", there was a Model 25 (98" wheelbase), and a Model 30 and Model 35, both with 108" wheelbase. How can you tell the Model 30 apart from the Model 35 by looking at the car? What was the engine bore and stroke of the Model 30 versus the Model 35? Thanks ---- Scott
  22. Hi, Can someone tell me the engine bore and stroke for a 35 HP Reo, 1911? Thanks --- Scott
  23. Hi all, I like antique cars prior to 1930 --- twenties and the teens. I have a job interview coming up at GE in Cincinatti in a week or so. I'm just curious what the laws are for driving antique cars in Ohio? Do you need to have them inspected every year like in NY? Do you need to register them every year, like in NY? Do you need to kiss some politician's *ss every year, pay the highest taxes in the nation and get nothing for it, like in NY? Seriously, I know the requirements are different in every state. I seem to recall Ohio being a bit friendlier than most. Am I right? Thanks, --
  24. Hi all, I have a 1926 Packard Eight with a Detroit Lubricator carburetor (spring-loaded air valves). I set the float to give a gasoline level of 3/16" below the top of the main jet. It does not leak or drip, so I know the level is below the top of the jet. However, I wonder if the level is set too high, will the mixture be too rich and give poor fuel economy? OR, is the mixture determined only by the setting of the air valve? The car runs fine, but the spark plugs are always black and sooty, and I only get about 10 miles per gallon. Should I lower the float level? And if so, to what? The
  25. Hi all, Does anyone know if there is a website, book or other source of information on the Simplex or the Crane Simplex? I believe that the "Crane" Simplex was built from about 1915 through WWI, and that the six cylinder engine was 4-3/8" x 6-3/4" (BIG!) but I can't find any detailed information on Google.com. There's only one reference in Automobile Quarterly, too. (That I own) Thanks, Scott
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