HBergh

My DA Victoria does not have what you are describing on the bottom of the door. However, there are dried out rubber seals on the top of the doors similar to your description. I've been looking for suitable replacements for a long time without any luck so far.

How about this one.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Brothers-Model-30/332616918294?hash=item4d71836516:g:6T4AAOSwfohazVWm&vxp=mtr

Here is a 1930 DA bumper without spare tire in back

Thanks, Dave for that valuable tip! Howard.

Hey Tom, I am interested in your shades also for my 1930 DA Victoria, but I think your shades are different in length except for the rear window. At this time I'm not able to tell you the width of my back windows because I'm away from my car. I'll see if I can find these widths somewhere on the Internet and reply. Thanks

Thanks!

Boy, I wasn't expecting this much commentary. I realize that most antique cars are not "unidentifiable" to all who responded but to me it was. Thank you everyone!

Can anyone identify this car that belonged to my great uncle?

Can anyone tell me the make of this car that belonged to my great uncle?

We already have 20 adults signed up and a couple of children. Our next planning meeting will be on February 4, 2017, 12:00 noon, at Debbie and Bill Leuer's home, 316 E Blaine St, Riverside, CA 92507. For the Dodge owners that don't receive the DBC Newletter, here are a couple of useful documents for you:

Hello everyone! I wanted to remind all you Dodge owners that the 2017 International Dodge Meet will be held in Fallbrook, CA, June 18-23, 2017. Please visit the following link to learn more: http://www.dodgebrothersclub.org/annual_meet Please note that the first outing will begin at 10:00am on Sunday, June 18. I hope to see you all there.

Yes, welcome to this DB site! Another idea to find the frame number/serial number for your 1920 DB is to look under the front floorboard on the passenger side. The number would have been stamped on the top of the cross member. For the year 1920 the serial numbers ranged from 424146 to 565000, so look for a number in that range. Keep in mind that you may need to do a little cleaning to make the number visible. Also, the engine number, which is usually around 50,000 higher than the frame number, is located on the engine block over the carburetor intake (driver's side). There should be a flat casting area with a 6-digit number. Good Luck!

What a great collection of Dodge's! I'm glad you took the time to share them.

Have you checked Romar?

I think Meyers carries this item.

I disconnected the exhaust header by removing three bolts and as suggested, I disconnected the tail pipe hold-downs to allow better mobility of the header and better access to this hidden expansion plug hole. I cleaned out all the loose rust from inside this hole. (see picture) I was unable to locate a cup expansion plug of the exact size (31/32") for my 1923 engine. I was shown a piece of copper water pipe coupler which had an OD that just fit into my hole. I then found a 3/4" copper water pipe cap whose OD also fit nicely into my expansion hole. I ground down the cap to about 3/8" from 3/4" length. I applied a layer of contact adhesive-sealant around the surfaces of the cap and expansion hole. After a couple of minutes of drying, I tapped the cap into the hole such that it was flush with the engine body so that it looks just like the original. Even though there appears to be a slight gap at the top of the finished job, there are no leaks! I'm ready to roll again! Now, on to repacking my water pump.....

I think while you are viewing your post you will see a label "moderation actions". When you click this you will get the option to delete.

Thank you everyone with all your helpful suggestions as well as a little history, which was very interesting! Since I don't believe the exhaust header has been off since it was built, I've begun the manifold removal process by dousing the port connections with penetrating oil. It all looks a little rusty! If I find anything interesting to see, I'll post a picture of two. Thanks again, Howard.

When I filled the radiator of my 1923 4-cylinder Touring today, water started running out of a new place, other that the drain plugs. I found the water was coming from a hole of about 7/8" diameter just below the the rear-most exhaust port. It appears to be a rusted out freeze/expansion plug, in the most difficult place, of course. First of all, where can I purchase such a replacement plug? Secondly, has anyone replaced this plug to tell me the best way to do it? It looks like the exhaust manifold will have to come off, if that is even possible. Thanks!

As a side note, can anyone provide a readable image or text describing in detail the route taken by this 1930 Dodge Marathon? I found a map of the marathon on the Internet but the resolution is too poor to make out the cities listed. Thanks.

During the 2014 Dodge Centennial rainy tour, Rain-X worked extremely well on my front window! Water just rolled off without a wiper.

I've attached a Generator Removal procedure file that was submitted by another Dodge owner. I hope this helps. 1919 StarterGenerator Removal.pdf

To backup Dr. Joe's DA emblem description, here is a picture of my 1930 DA radiator emblem, which I think is original.

Another option was documented in the OCT/NOV 2007 DB Club News. I used this procedure and am still "tuning" the bend in the float arm. I'm on my third test. My gas tank is again full and the gauge reads full. Now I just need to drive it to retest my sending unit. The one safety note that needs to always be employed when working with the sending unit is to disconnect the battery before starting to work on it. Good Luck!

I see you were able to find your snubber belting. I just wanted to add that I purchased my snubber belting from Romar back in 2012 but I see from his online catalog that he no longer can provide it now.