HBergh

Upon reviewing the Aug/Sep 2009 issue of DB Club News (p13), I found an article about a company called Atwater Kent (AK) that was reproducing antique car electrical parts. Since I couldn't find this company on the Internet from the URL provided, I called them. Apparently, AK has been replaced with a body (human) building company, but the person I chatted with stated that they still have the AK manufacturing rights. I was interested in their fuel tank sending unit shown in the DB article and was wondering if anyone has purchased anything for your DB car from this new company? Thanks, Howard

If no one on this forum has an extra lens and you haven't found what you need on eBay or at antique car swap meets, check out this site: old car lenses home

I checked out the Logo lights mentioned above. I can't tell if the Senior 6 has supporting bumper bolts on the right and left sides of the bumper. The Logo lights are specifically designed to attached to the Model A bumper bolts on the right and left. My 30 DA only has a center bolt attachment so this kit doesn't appear to work for me. If anyone does have a method of attaching these Logo lights to a bumper similar to a DA's I would really like to hear about it. Thanks!

The one thing I found with my lights not working correctly was that the associated light bulb receptacle was not grounded well to the frame. After cleaning all metal interfaces between the light bulb receptacle and frame the lights worked well again!

John, I am planning to trailer my Dodge from Tumwater area to Detroit in 2014. I wouldn't mind joining your caravan pulling my trailer, but my wife and I are planning to take a non-direct route to see the U.S. and to stop by to see relatives to update my genealogy database. Howard

FYI: There is a Depress Beam lens currently on eBay that I think is suitable for 1929 and 1930 Dodges, maybe others. Written on the lens: Part# 11471 8 1/2 x 9 5/16 lens Chrysler Desoto Dodge Durant Reo Studebaker 1928 1929 1930 1931 1932 1933 | eBay

Keep in mind, in those days Dodge ended their year on 31 JUNE. So, even though your car was built on July 2, 1929, it would have been considered one of the early 1930 model cars.

Thanks, guys, for putting some reality into my issue. The upholstery was redone and it may have been attached in a non-stock manner, which caused my original concern about accessing the inner door and window hardware. I'll see if I can do a little more investigation on how the upholstery was attached. Thanks again, HB

1930: I'm not a machinist so I don't have a die grinder, but it sounds like you are suggesting that I drill a 1-2" hole in the door edge to get access to the inner door workings. Is that what you are saying? Thanks

I'm looking for some ideas on how to lubricate the door opening levers and window crank mechanism without having to remove the upholstery. When I roll down the window I can use some spray lubrication in the doors but I would like to apply some longer lasting lubrication. And for the windows not in doors it's almost impossible to even see the associated crank hardware. Even when I removed the window frame l could not see the hardware any better. Thanks, HB

I had a very similar experience in response to my forum want list about a month ago. I had three different user responses from the UK. As others have said, after I asked for pictures to confirm they had what I was looking for, the communication stopped. I hope everyone is now aware of this scam. HB

Can anyone tell me what Dodge year this tail light was used? It's currently on eBay.

Thanks, everyone for all your great suggestions and general discussion. Harold: You are exactly correct with my original condition. My goal with my delimma announcement was to find a reasonable solution as well as to alert others of this type of condition. I will proceed very carefully!

Now that I think I've created a well vented gas cap, I would like some ideas on how to return my gas tank to its original shape. I hope you can get an idea of what the tank looks like from my pictures. 1. Could I some how safely pressurize the tank sufficiently to pop the tank back into shape? 2. Should I need to take my car to a body & fender shop to have them pull out the tank from the exterior? 3. Any other idea(s)? Thanks, Howard.

Thanks. To me, the word Medallion meant something more artistic--something containing a small DB logo or the like. Now I have seen one!

Yes, I would like to see a bumper medallion. I don't think I've ever seen one. Thanks

1930: I don't need bumpers but I'm interested in seeing an image of a medallion that you mentioned and where it was attached. Thanks

Ron, that sounds like a very exciting trip! See you at the annual meet in 2014. Howard

Still using "No Reserve" but the minimum bid now is $15K! Now it may sell.

I really don't know if my gas tank cap is original. However, when I blow on the small hole in the cap, air does pass. As long as there is plenty of gas in the tank, the engine seems to run normally. If someone has an original cap that could provide a close up image of the vent hole, it could be helpful. My tank looks solid, so yes, it was a surprise that such a vacuum could be developed in the tank.

I would like to know if anyone else with a DA has had excessive vacuum occur in the gas tank such that the gas tank metal started to collapse. Here is how it happened to me: I knew my gas tank was pretty empty while in my shop but I had started my DA several times for static test engine runs. When I decided to go for a test drive, the car appeared to stop because of not enough gas in the vacuum tank. So, I added about a half cup of gas into the vacuum tank. The car started and ran for a couple of minutes and then I heard the sound of thumping metal. When I tried to removed my gas cap it was nearly impossible because of the excessive vacuum in the tank and I observed that the tank was dented in. I decided that with gas tank gas level was below the outlet such no gas could be brought to the vacuum tank, so it just kept sucking until the tank started to collapse. My question is: Should the vent hole in the gas cap been able to withstand this vacuum without collapsing the tank? Thanks.

Does anyone have a technique or product recommendation that I can use to seal the pin holes in the base of my DA brake fluid supply tank? My local auto supply doesn't think a gas tank sealant would hold up to brake fluid. Thanks

Jimbo: I don't know if my gas gauge works yet. My original sending unit was rusted solid and had been previously repaired with baling wire. All I know at this time is that I see 6 volts at the wire that connects to the sending unit when the ignition is on. I should be able to provide my findings within the next couple of weeks. HB

Jimbo: All I can say at this point in time is that others have used this replacement sending unit. I will be receiving mine this week and will be able to give you a more detailed answer to your question in the near future. Howard.

The original part# that was defined in the Oct/Nov 2007 issue of DB News was MV132950. This is what I used to find the sending unit at JC Whitney. The previous part# that I provided was given from JC Whitney on my order form. When I searched the previous part# I provided, I got "nothing found". Sorry for the confusion!