HBergh

Can someone please supply a picture of how and where to mount its horn? Also, can someone supply brand and model of horn that was used on a '27 T roadster? Thank you very much! Howard

Here is an email site that will help just a little. vehicleinvoice@gmmediaarchive.com For $50 you can get a car's original build record. You will need the VIN, and maybe the style & body # for verification.

FYI, I did pick up this Cadillac on the west coast (Washington) but I don't know yet its life history to know where it has resided over the last 50 years. My "Korean" chrome is however evident in a few places--its like it has just been wiped off with too much polishing. Up to this time I've often wondered how this could have happened because chromium is a hard metal. Thanks of solving this mystery! HB

Thanks everyone! BOBSCADS: Please define the letters "SS.HTH" KEISER31: I didn't know you were a Cadillac man too. :-) Howard

Yep, the yellow roadster is "Bill" Devine's. You'll have to wait for a response from Bill to answer your question about his emblem. To Mr. Keiser: Thank you for your sense of humor and accepting my spelling error. I won't let it happen again!

Here's another point of view of our Keiser Meet, Group 2 Howard

Here's another point of view of our Keiser Meet, Group 1 Howard

I'm considering rechroming the grille on 1953 Cadillac, series 62. It appears that the original chrome did not completely cover the center and bottom horizontal sections connecting the vertical segments. In other words, the chrome looks like it only covers the front curved portions but not the inner flat portions. Is that if fact the way the grille was chromed? If it was, how was the inner flat portions finished? See attached picture for reference. Thanks for your help! Howard

jmf: Look under the passager side floor board, on the frame. You may need to brush off some grime. Howard

Another possible dating clue is the serial number (VIN). Look at the base that the passenger seat sets in (if you have that part). You may find a plate there facing you with a number.

For everyone's information, my 1923 Touring has the battery Negative terminal connected to the chassis. However, I see in the 1923 Instruction Manual that the postive terminal is connected to ground. So somewhere in the life of my machine, its polarity apparently was switched. Besides the slow electric cranking, the necessary electrical seems to work just fine; so I think I will leave it like it is for now.

Now back to the original topic. I want to thank everyone for their experiences with slow engine turn over with electric starter. I plan to check, clean and tighten all electrical cables as well as check my brushes and check turn over speed with spark plugs out. I suspect that there is some high electrical resistance in my starting circuit, thus reducing the applied voltage at the starter. So, I will be checking the voltage at the starter while pressing on the starter button. I had to smile when someone mentioned a smoking fuse because the "fuse" in my generator is a solid piece of copper wire.

Ever since I've had my 1923 Touring, the electric starter (model GA)turns the engine over v-e-r-y slowly, about 10 rpm. And this is with a fully charged battery. I would like to know from someone if this is normal? By the way, the car always starts. Thanks, Howard

Could you add a picture of your tail lamp assembly to your message? Thanks

I'm unable to view your attached jpg files.

Hi Howard. What nice pictures, thanks for sharing them! One interesting note to add to our car comparisons, mine actually has magneto spark. Because the front panel ingition switch is non-functioning at this time, a small toggle switch was mounted under the dash to open and close the spark. So to start this car, I have to "open" the this toggle switch to unground the spark output. Here is a picture of the right side of the engine showing the carburator and magento. On another topic, I'm interested in trying to retore the battery set up for starting, horn and lights. It appears that an equivalent of two 6-volt batteries were used with a swtiching mechanism to provide 12 volts for starting and 6 volts for other requirements. Do you have this "subsystem" working on your car? Is so, can you describe it a little. Thanks, Howard.

Hi again Howard; I wish I could help. I think I already sent to you some of the dash pictures of the 1917 Model 25 that I'm maintaining. Here are the ones that might interest you most, even though my dash looks different and the fuses are oriented differently. FYI, my engine number is 186728; I have not body number, but at least the engine seems to fit the 1917 model year. Unfortunately, I don't have a picture of the back side of my fuse panel at this time to share. I can get one at a later date for your future reference. Howard B

Great, you were successful! HB

If the old oil weight of 600 equates to today's oil weight of 140, today's 600 weight oil would have to equate to a old oil weight of about 2500, which would be like nice creamy peanut butter.

Please edit your post and add a picture or two Thanks, Howard.

Thanks for the tip, Howard. Are there threads on the rim or just some kind of twist-lock mechanism? Yes, who knows how long it has been since the lenses have been off. I worked on this car last weekend to get it ready for the fall show being held on the next two weekends. I actually fired it up while on the jack stands, after about 10-15 pulls on the crank. That was pretty exciting! That's the first time I've heard it run. I'm a little concerned about an occasional "clunking" sound; like maybe a loose main. I plan to have someone more experienced with this kind of sound take a listen. Thanks again, Howard B.

Hi everyone; Can anyone describe the method required to remove the headlight lens of a 1917 Maxwell Model 25? The Instruction Manual gave no clues. I tried twisting the rim but it didn't budge. Thanks, Howard B

Hi everyone; Connected under the hood of my 1953 Series 62, in the middle, closest to the cowl, is a looped wire type device. It acts like a trigger for a switch when the hood is opened and closed. However, I don't see any kind of electrical wires attached. Can anyone tell me the fuction of this springed, hinged, looped wire? Is it some sort of electrical grounding? Thanks a million! Howard

Hi everyone; With my Heater, Temp, Blower and Upper Vent controls all in the upper most position, engine heat still enters the car interior. The fresh air vents under the dash are also closed. I don't feel any hot air blowing from anywhere but the interior air gets uncomfortably warm in the summer with the windows closed. Can anyone say if this is just the way 1953 Cadillac's operated, or do I have a maybe a firewall heat leak or something similar?? Thanks, Howard

After following the instructions in the 1953 Cadillac maintenance book to remove the radio, I was unsuccessful. There just doesn't seem to be enough room to slide the radio out from the back. Can anyone provide any clues how this trick is done? It would certainly be nice if the radio front grille was removable, but I couldn't see any fasteners to remove. Thanks, Howard Bergh