Ken/Alabama

The power feed wire leaves the dome lite switch and continues on to the pass side of the trunk and feeds the trunk lite switch. Then another wire leaves the trunk switch and runs back up to the trunk lite. As far as running a new wire you have to remember that the wire going from the dash to the dome lite switch is also tied to the feed wire going inside the trunk.

I really see no need for it. If the pushrod is correctly adjusted and the shoes are properly adjusted I can't imagine an external residual valve being worth the hassle.

That hole that you have the speedo cable in is the hole for the cowl vent drain. The speedo cable comes in on the drivers side of the firewall.

DO NOT mount it from the bell housing . It needs to be mounted from the side using the exhaust manifold bolt holes . Here is mine mounted on a KR Wilson engine stand.

. The speedometer changer is not needed if the cable is attached to the axle and not the driveshaft. Lincoln's that came from the factory with a Columbia had this setup. If they were dealer installed it had the changer on the firewall.

Here is a picture of mine. There should be a dimple to mark where the hole goes for the cable and also dimples to mark the screw holes for the speedometer changer.

That's it. Hose slides over it and exits the firewall.

The vent has a trough around the perimeter to catch any leakage from the cowl vent. If you look under the dash at the front of the cowl vent opening there should be a nipple pointing down for a hose to slip over. Then the hose exits the firewall adjacent to the choke cable.

Never seen that situation before. But something is definately not right if you can turn it with your finger. The worst part is having to pull the rear axle back to get to it.

It fits over the splines on the driveshaft . Has a snap ring on the front side but even if it's not in place that wouldn't keep the gear from turning.

Good point Peecher. If that engine is indeed a later engine with hydraulic lifters I would consider changing the oil from the heavy weight thats in there to a much lighter weight. My thinking on that is that maybe there is a lifter thats starving for oil and the thinner oil may flush out a piece of trash.

Im betting my dollar on a lifter. The noise dont sound heavy enough to me for a rod bearing or wrist pin. I would pull the intake and check for a loose valve first. Your car being a 37 it doesnt have hydraulic lifters but it may have adjustable lifters.

Its fine,your good to go. Dont know if you can even find new gaskets like your old ones.

I can do it. I have the equipment to strobe and properly set the advance and vacuum brake.

I always put the spring on the axle and install the whole thing.

With your dash,steering column and wheel being all the wrong color and the window mouldigs should be wood grain ,I wouldn't fret too much over glove box knobs but I thought all 38 & 39s were chrome plated

Need one if the square voltage regulators for my 39 Zephyr that were used on 39 & early 40 Fords, Lincoln & Mercury. Measures 2 1/2" square with mounting hole on each side. Working or not.

Grab the moulding at the top and apply downward pressure and at the same time pull outward. There aren't any screws holding it just those spring clips.

Here's a photo of a 39. The oil line just under the sending unit goes into the side of the filter.

Here's a picture of one.

Yes, Ream the guides to accept a 11/32 bronze liner. I save all the used and worn guides for this. Works great.

Unleaded fuel will not do any damage to your valve train. Our V12s and the V8s of the same era has hardened seats.

While cleaning the steering tube for my Zephyr I found a part number stamped in the tube. Can't say I've ever seen this before on a steering tube.

I use the solid guides and fit them with a bronze liner on my V8 and V12 rebuilds.This allows for a tighter clearance between the valve stem and guide .