Ken/Alabama

The plug has three pins. Two of them go to the speaker and the other one is a ground thats grounded to the speaker housing. There is no fuse.

This is the speaker from my 39 Zephyr.

Its my understanding that if the car left the factory with a Columbia the speedometer takeoff was on the axle housing. If the Columbia was dealer installed then the speedometer changer was used on the firewall because there was no speedometer takeoff on the axle. Who knows whats really correct but Ive seen 39 Zephyrs both ways.

Here are some pictures of the 39 unit. Looks same as 40. You will alo need the speedometer changer that mounts on the firewall.

I need your email address to send some pictures.

The disc on the end of the lock cyl is off center and works like a cam . It fits in a wide slot in the locking bolt therefore sliding the bolt when the key is turned. I have mine apart and can email you some pictures . My car is a 39 but I'm pretty sure 38 is the same.

Remove steering wheel, remove clamp bolt at steering box that clamps the steering tube to the box. remove the wires to the switch, remove the two bolts holding the column to the dash, unplug the horn wire out under the hood where it comes through the steering box. then you will need to loosten the bolts holding the steering box to the frame to allow the column to drop down to gain clearance to slide the tube off the steering shaft. make sure the mechanism isnt in the lock position. If it is and you have the cyl out you can manipulate the locking bolt with a screwdriver.

Not exactly but ive been told they will work. One has 3 screws that hold the frame to the door and the other has 4 screws,cant remember which is which, I will have to take a look at mine.

Im using ones from a Ford truck. I believe they are from 36-40 or 41. Same diameter and just a tad longer but they work just fine. Measure the diameter of the Lincoln to make sure you get the right stud from the truck because I dont think all the trucks were the same size.

Made them . Not too difficult .

Maybe these can help. I can take pics or measurements for you if you need something specific.

The people I bought mine from on E bay were located in North Carolina. I will try to find a phone number for you.

I bought mine from them also for my 39. Tell them your car has a Hot Air Heater and they can supply you with the correct crossover pipe. The crossover pipes are different .

I talked to Johnny Stooksbury a few weeks ago. He took a pretty bad spill on his motorcycle, not sure how much he is doing right now.

Does anyone have the Federal Mogul number for V 12 main bearings.

I just need a set of .010 bearings The thrust washer on the crank looks good so I'm hoping the end play isn't gonna be a problem. I will check it though when I get some bearings. Earl Brown doesn't have any .010 bearings.

Need a set of 36-48 V12 main bearings in .010 undersize.

Remove the carpets from the front then remove the pan covering the transmission. You will see the torque tube and how its attached to the rear of the transmission. You will need to jack the rear of the car up and place some good jackstands under the frame . I do this by placing the floor jack under the rear end and raise it as high as possible then put the jack stands under the frame on each side and leave the jack under the rear . then disconnect the brake line going to the rear and the parking brake cable. Disconnect the shocks and remove the nuts and U bolts holding the spring then with the tires removed the whole unit can be lowered with the floor jack and rolled out. The transmission will come out through the floor but dont forget to support the rear of the engine. If the Columbia hasnt been used in years I would definatly rebuild the synchro clutch. If it still has the cork pads inside of it they tend to stick with age and can destroy the sun gear when its shifted.

Not Sure about the 38 but I do know the 39 is welded in.

I got the ones for my coupe from Paul Bradley and they are exactly like the originals. The ones in the sedan I made . They aren't exact but are functional .

Here is what Im doing this summer. Got two V12 engines ready to build. The one without paint is for my 39 Coupe and the other one on the stand is for a friends 39 Sedan. We are rebuilding the engine for the 39 Sedan and rewiring,rebuilt the entire brake system,new exhaust,installing a Hot air heater. The floor pans had some weak places so I made some new pans and installed them also. We arent after a complete restoration here but just want a good driver. Hope to be finished in another month or so then I can get back to work on my 39 Coupe.

Have you tried putting the screws in it to see if you can pull the gap closed. I had some of this on my 39 Zephyr but it was close enough that I was able to pull the gap shut with the screws.

Is the gap in the trans cover at the rear where it goes over the driveshaft tunnel or where it screws to the floor pan ?? Got a picture you could post.

You need 19B -6336 lower retainer and 91A-6335 upper retainer . These are Flathead Ford retainers and are available through the vendors .

The floor pan should follow the contour of the frame rail. On my Zephyr the floor pan is spot welded to the top of the frame rail, your Continental is probably the same.