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Ken/Alabama

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Everything posted by Ken/Alabama

  1. Save yourself some headaches and take Mobileparts recommendation.
  2. I can rebuild your starter. I have an armature lathe and growler and other means of testing and rebuilding your starter and generator.
  3. Fit all the fender welting with holes or slots and mark each piece as to their location . Then remove the welting and paint it off the car. Same with fenders. Done it like this more than once. Have never added any flex agent to my paint. Never an issue in the last 25 years.
  4. Dave, it’ll come out with some persuasion. Not one of the easiest task I’ve done . I’m assuming you have also removed the door lock cylinder from the door. Also remove the mechanism from the inside door handle . It takes some pushing and pulling to get it out.
  5. I made a new shaft from clutch cross shaft and bushings. Same size as the Zephyr pedal shaft.
  6. The top cover ,the wider one is from a V8 Ford. The narrow one is correct for the V12
  7. My V12 is the later version , 46-48 and it’s bored to 2 15/16” + .020 . No heating problems at all, runs well.
  8. So how does the rear main drain pipe affect oil pressure?? My 1940 V8 doesn’t even have one
  9. Why would you want 12 volts ?🤷‍♂️
  10. The only plug that needs to be removed is the one holding the lock cylinder . Replacement plugs are available or some folks thread the hole and install a set screw.
  11. 32-48 is a direct bolt up , input shafts are the same. The later 49-53 flathead will work also if you use the truck or Mercury bell housing and clutch disc.
  12. Even though the glove box pulls and the ash tray pulls look a like the mounting holes are spaced different. The wiper bezel is threaded with a nut on the underside. You’ll need to remove it to get it all back together. The shaft has a spring on it so when you removed the knob the shaft fell through. To remove the door handles simply push in on the door panel at the old escutcheon and it will expose the base of the handle , rotate the handle and you’ll see a pin, drive the pin out with a drift or similar tool and the handle will slide off the square shaft.
  13. I’ve had NOS ones and they will separate, probably because they are now 80 years old. I put NOS ones on my 39 and they lasted no time before they came apart. I clamped them back together and welded a piece of steel to tie the pieces together. I know it kinda defeats the purpose of the rubber but at least they still holding up. The originals were vulcanized and I know of no one that can redo them. Same with the muffler bracket. Had a nos one and it let go first.
  14. Skips bearing comes with instructions. I havent done one personally but I’ve seen the instructions. . Not too difficult if you have the torque tube out.
  15. The center driveshaft bearing for the Lincoln is same as Ford 78-4658. Skip Haney (the coil guy) makes a replacement for that .
  16. Glad you found it! I see the V12 cover does have the cast in knob. It’s a miracle that the cover didn’t get broken when they pulled the bolts up.
  17. Done a little investigating. I have an empty V8 block on the engine stand. I placed the idler gear and cover on and the gear should be running in the center. On the V8 , pre 49 blocks, the idler gear will not go on the cover wrong because the cover has a hump cast into it to prevent that. I thought I had a V12 cover laying around but couldn’t find it. Can’t remember if the V12 cover has that cast in hump or not . Maybe someone here has one to look at. The covers are different between the V12 & V8 except for the 36-37 V12. The V12 cover will have a part number with an 86H prefix.
  18. That looks like it could be your problem. Can you turn the gear with a long screwdriver? That would tell you if it’s engaged with the cam.
  19. Need to know year of Lincoln. If you’re talking Lincoln Zephyr or Continental they use the same solenoid as Ford for those years. Assuming you’re staying with 6 volt system.
  20. Be very careful. The last thing you want to do is to break the pin that the pointer attaches to. They are very fragile. I’ve had good luck warming the housing where the cable attaches to free up frozen speedometer heads.
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