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Everything posted by Ken/Alabama

  1. There will be enough oil slinging up on the cam and lifter to lubricate them. The V8 has no oil galley for the lifters. I’m running adjustable lifters in my V12 also . Plugged off the rear hole and drilled a 1/16” hole in the front down to the cam bearing, that allows oil to flow onto the timing gear. Not really necessary, the 49-53 V8 has no provision in the front for the timing gear, just depends on splash and slinging it up there.
  2. This is the only KR Wilson tool for removing and replacing the valve train in the V12 . The valve bar for the V8 doesn’t work very well because if the weird angles on the V12. I have one and have used it many times.
  3. Dwell should be at 36 degrees each side and the. Distributor must be synchronized. I have the proper machine to set the distributor up if you need.
  4. Each set of points fires 6 cylinders but there are three plug wires on each side that cross over. I would try changing condensers first or at least swap sides with them to see if the problem changes. Could be cracked rotor or a bad resister .There is two of them ,one for each side of the coil located under the dash on the firewall. Also check for loose or dirty connections including the cap where the plug wires plug in.
  5. Those grommets fit the original regulators.
  6. I’m betting on a bad U Joint. Every Lincoln joint I’ve removed was worn and had slack in it. I put a NOS Ford UJoint in my Zephyr.
  7. First make sure tacking strips in the body are in good condition or better yet replace them. New ones are available in plastic. I would also re wire the dome light and switch and make sure it’s in good working order. There is also a wire that goes to the trunk light that runs along the right side from the dome light switch location to the trunk light. You don’t want any bad wiring behind your new headliner. Clean and repaint all the headliner bows and keep track of where they come from. If your car still has the old original insulation in the roof that’s held in with the wooden slats, I would strongly recommend removing all the old stuff and use some of the new products available like Dyna- Mat or Fat-Mat with the peel and stick application. The wind lace goes in first around the door openings then the headliner on top of that. Place the bows in the headliner sleeves and slide the headliner towards the middle to expose the ends of the bows then starting with the rear bow attach bows to the body with the screws. Once they are in place start working the headliner towards the ends of the bows side to side to remove wrinkles . The forward most bow is held in with some tabs that bend over it. Then go to the rear blelow the window and pull it down taught and tack it . Keep working back to front , side to side. Do not trim anything until it’s all tacked in place. To hide the edge of the headliner around the door opening there is a hydem strip, it opens up in the middle where the tacks or staples go then it folds shut to hide them and gives it a finished look.
  8. You will not find that cap in reproduction. It’s made of heavy cast iron and has a 99A prefix on the part number unlike the thin stamped steel Ford version.
  9. No modifications. They usually get oil soaked then the rubber deteriorates. The one for the Lincoln will carry a 99A- prefix in the part number,it’s the same as Mercury but different than the one used on the Fords. Most any of the early Ford vendors will have it.
  10. What’s the condition of the rubber ball bushing located on the front wishbone where it meets the cross member under the transmission?
  11. Make sure the square head of the spring tie bolt is located in the square hole of the cross member. If it’s not, that could explain why things are moving around and why the ubolt nuts are at the end of the treads.
  12. Didn’t know it would go any other way.
  13. I didn’t put them in my engine. I’ve ran V12 with them and without, couldn't notice any difference either way. I am running high volume water pumps and they push plenty of water to the rear of the block. My stock 2 7/8” bore V12 has been bored to 2 15/16 + .020. No heat problems driving on these 95 plus degree days. Not even in town driving.
  14. The axle lengths in the 38-39 Zephyr is the same as Ford 35-41. You must use the correct spider gears to match the gear on the axle. 16 tooth axles use 11 tooth spiders and 18 tooth axles use 12 tooth spiders. I have Ford axles (NOS) in my 39 Zephyr .
  15. I did but not in the recess where the fiber washers go and also keep paint out of the holes for the pins and springs.
  16. I used a valve spring compressor to remove them.
  17. I've rebuilt a couple of those. Best I remember I made some new fiber washers from some gasket gasket material but not cork. I think cork might be too soft.
  18. It's normal. Convert your radiator to a pressure system by adding one of the pressure relief valves from Skip Haney. It simply attaches to the overflow tube on the radiator via a hose and clamp . The electric fan is gonna put a big pull on your electrical system . A generator doesn't put out at idle. How hot are you calling hot? If it's not boiling the water out its fine.
  19. The 42 engines were 2 15/16" bore then after the war changed back to 2 7/8". A lot of folks bore the 42 blocks out to 3 1/16" and use the readily available STD Ford V8 pistons.
  20. Check with Dave at Macs Cartouche upholstery. They have the patterns because they done the upholstery for my friends 39 Zephyr Coupe several years back. He sent them patterns.
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