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Everything posted by Ken/Alabama

  1. The gauges don't care if it's pos or neg ground. A reducer can be installed to drop the current to 6 volts.
  2. The 36 V12 wont work good anyway in your 38. Front mounts are different .
  3. 1936 V12,transmission,Columbia two speed & radiator from a running 36 Zephyr that went the way of the Streetrod. Will not separate. Not mine, listing for a friend. Located in Alabama. Message me for contact information
  4. It was used when adjusting the lower anchor bolts on the Lockheed style brakes on the 39-41 Fords . The instructions says to apply 20 pounds of pressure to the pedal while the adjustment is being made. It may have other uses also.
  5. I agree with 19tom40. I can rebuild and strobe your distributor but I can't rebuild your coil. You'll need to send it to Skip for that. I think you can come in under $400 minus a lot of headaches .
  6. Been using 12 volts on my 40 6 volt starter for going on 23 years. Those starters have heavy windings in them. The Bendix Spring will probably let go before the ring gear. I haven't experienced either. I know several folks that are using 12 volts on their starters.
  7. Starter don't care. It will run same direction pos or neg ground and will work fine on 12 volts.
  8. Im pretty sure the oval ones were the approved accessory style that was available through the dealer. I think the other style was aftermarket . The oval ones should fit 36-39. These are the ones on my 39 Coupe.
  9. It's 1939 and the movie "Gone With The Wind " is premiering . For some of the lucky buyers of the 1939 Lincoln Zephyr received from participating Dealers an envelope promoting the movie and the car ,that held the keys to your new car. The envelope was also your ticket to view the new movie. I found this one a few years back and keep it in the glovebox of my 39 LZ coupe. Thought this was fitting since this year marks the 80th year and the movie is being shown at selected theaters around the country.
  10. The steering wheel hub and horn button are dash color. The metal center of the horn button with the script can be removed by bending the tabs on the back. I was thinking it was stainless but if not you can have it chromed. Then paint it and wipe away the paint from the raised script.
  11. My 292 is bored .060 over 2 7/8". That's only .0025 from 2 15/16". I have no heating issues.
  12. Sounds like this car has probably been sitting for a while. If so, tires are going to be a big issue. If a tire comes apart it's likely to do major damage to a fender and who knows what else. Since your going long distance I would either try to get a trailer or hire a transport to move the car for me. There's a lot of unknowns here.
  13. My first thoughts would be are the tires good? Has the car been sitting for ages or does it run?Check the oil in the differential. Might also check rear wheel bearings to make sure they have grease. The other concern is the small roller bearing located in the rear of the transmission input shaft. When your towing the driveline will be turning but the transmission input will not. That bearing will be getting a workout and since the cluster gear will not be turning there will be no oil being thrown up to lube this bearing. I've seen guys tow for long distance before using a dolly and they would pull over and start the engine to spin the transmission for a few minutes. If the car has no engine make sure the transmission has oil in it , put the transmission in high gear and tow it all day. If it has an engine but doesn't run it might be risky to do any long distance towing.
  14. I don't understand why they would tell you that it would need to be welded to prevent blowing a head gasket. If it's cracked from the valve seat to the cylinder , none of that is under the gasket. Even if it was , I still don't see a problem. Every flathead V8 I've built always have cracks between a head stud and water hole. Never , ever had an issue. The crack being in the valve seat I would want it stitched though to prevent further cracking. That method works very well.
  15. It goes all the way down . On the end where it's under the stainless trim , I peeled back the welt and cut the core so it wouldn't create a hump under the trim. Also , the welt gets painted body color.
  16. Don Eash in South Carolina recast mine. Very satisfied .
  17. I usually leave the mounts bolted to the frame and remove the bolts from the mount to the block. Yes they can be a pain but they will come out .
  18. This is the piece that goes on first.
  19. The oblong sheetmetal piece fits over the shift tower first. Then it has a foam rubber seal that sits on top of it . For the seal I used a readily available 78-7012130 seal that fits 37-39 Fords. Then the transmission cover goes over that. There is no boot involved.
  20. Examine your sockets really good. The socket well has a spring inside that keeps the contacts against the bulb . Make sure that it's moves . Should be able to check by pulling on the wires. Make sure the three pins aren't froze up either.
  21. I took the photos of my friends 39 Zephyr sedan and it's not been tampered with so I'm sure this is how it came from the factory.
  22. The light socket is mounted on the right upper corner of the trunk via two screws that's screwed into the X brace behind the carboard trunk liner. The switch is mounted on the left side spare tire stop. You'll see two screw holes there that matches up with the holes in the switch.
  23. Check with some of the Early Ford suppliers such as Macs . They sell the fittings and the driver to install those fittings.
  24. Are you sure your looking at splines or could it be your seeing the rollers in the caged roller bearing ?
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