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Everything posted by Ken/Alabama

  1. Just courious as to what the chain is attached to while lifting this engine. I have an apparatus that fits inside the lifter valley for the V8 Ford but of course it doesn't fit the V12. I usually remove the heads and hook the chain up to a stud on each side and like you can lift it in and out with the hood in place.
  2. If your engine is a 37 it came with mechanical lifters . I'm thinking that the routing for the supply and return might be different than the later V12s with the hydraulic lifters. Maybe Cboz or someone else that has a correct 37 engine will shed some light on this.
  3. Plugging it off keeps oil from feeding the lifters that's not needed with the adjustable lifters. Leaving it in place would cause a drop in oil pressure , not sure how much but I'd rather keep that oil feeding the cam & crankshaft bearings.
  4. Check ball & spring should remain in the front and a small pipe plug , 1/8" I think it is, to replace the oil metering valve at the rear. Those valve settings should be good.
  5. Yes, got the Hot Air Heater and it works very well.
  6. Yes you can do this but you must use a spring spreader to disconnect the spring from the left side housing . Unbolt the radius rod from the housing and the brake line & cable . Remove the left housing and slide the whole differential assembly out . Of course this means you must have removed the hub on the right side. Take note of the gaskets on the left housing and replace them with the same thickness when you re-assemble it.
  7. Ok all you Zephyr folks that live in the Northern states don't laugh. Here in Alabama snow doesn't come around much but it has snowed twice since Dec 9th.
  8. Those pulleys are spot welded together from the factory. They are two piece stamped steel and the spots are in the bottom of the groove. I used a puller to remove the balancer then there is a snap ring on the engine side of the pulley that has to be removed. I then loosely clamped a large bearing separator against the pulley hub on the balancer side of the pulley then was able to slide the pulley off with a large two jaw puller. To install the new one you make sure the key way is lined up an then it just presses on then reinstall the snap ring.
  9. This is the results of what happens when the spot welds turn loose on the crankshaft pulley. I've never seen one do this before. This happened to a friend a couple days ago. I've replace the pulley and now waiting on radiator to come back from shop. It had a soldering issue not related to the pulley failure so nows the time to address it while it's out.
  10. Hi Tom, I have this clamp that fits onto the clutch pedal shaft and it operates the rod to the valve. Might be correct for your car if you don't have one. I got it with a bunch of Columbia controls and its Lincoln but not 39.
  11. What's the condition of your starter?? If the commutator & brushes are dirty or burned it's going to cause a high resistance esp when hot. Also replace the starter solenoid. Make sure grounds are good and all connections are clean and tight.
  12. Sounds like something not correct with the transmission. Fluid level, slipping , bad torque converter .
  13. My 39 Zephyr Coupe. Seven year project.
  14. Sounds like a good idea Tom. When you drain it the first time if you see signs of water I would do it a second time to make sure there's no trace of water or antifreeze still floating around in your engine. Got my Zephyr up and running again. Put about 75 miles on it the past two days and it's smooth as silk & still good oil pressure. Third time is charm ! I'm hoping.
  15. Chuck, The accelerator pedal for the Zephyr has an arm that fits through a slotted hole in the floorboard and hangs beneath the floor. The arm has a ball on it to accept a linkage that goes up to the bell crank on the firewall. The floor has a clinch nut or a cage but will work also , and accepts a 5/16 bolt that secures it to the floor. Here's a photo of the underside of my floor before I installed the pedal. You can see the clinch nut and beside it an elongated hole. In the other photo of my friends car with the engine out you can see the bell crank on the firewall just above the transmission.
  16. Don't forget to check the rubber frame isolators. The crossmember that the front and rear springs are mounted to are dependent on them to hold the suspension securely to the frame.
  17. It's been seven long years but I finally got it finished. Have logged 150 miles on it this past week. Met some friends today for lunch with two other 39 Zephyrs.
  18. If Your machinist mic'd it he should know if everything is within tolerance . If not regrind it to the next undersized. Usually leaks at the rear main are caused from a worn rear main journal. I always have my crank grinder to leave that rear journal on the full side of the specs. Never a leak.
  19. Tom it sounds like you ordered hoses from the same vendor that I did. I did actually recieve them along with the wiring harness after 2 months and several calls. The harness was fine but the hoses looked like they were cut from a random hose with an axe plus they had no script. Almost $100 worth of worthless hoses. I called them and they told me no one made the correct hoses for these V12 s but I knew better. I called Chris Herrel and his were perfect.
  20. What year is your coupe? Here's some pictures of mine.
  21. I just went through this for my 39 Coupe with Lebaron Bonney. The are dimensionally the same. The seat covers and the material that covers the seat carriage varies from 37-39. I sent them some patterns as they had nothing for the 39 but did have the kit for the 37 . They sent me headliner and side panels for the 37 and it fit my 39 really nice.
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