Ken/Alabama

What lights are you referring to? Side panels didn't come with lights.

The vacuum valve isn't correct for the Zephyr but it's a pretty easy fix. The vacuum supply port should be in the vertical position not horizontal . Being horizontal will interfere with the mounting bracket. Here's a pic of the correct one.

I bought mine from Earl Brown. Optima in a Zephyr case.

What I do is get some 80 grit sand paper that fits a air file used for body work. The sheets are long and about 2" wide with a peel and stick back. Clean the drum and peel and stick it to the inside of the drum. Then with a can of spray paint lightly dust the lining on the shoe for a guide coat. Then place the shoe in the drum and work it back and forth until the shoe is making full contact.

Looks like your shoes aren't making full contact with the drum. Shoes need to be arc ground to match the contour of the drum.

Do you have the mud pan that fits beneath the clutch & brake pedals? I have one available for 36-37 Zephyr.

I always put a small bead of RTV in the groove for the cork strip then install the cork and either clamp it in place or lay the pan on it to hold it in place till it cures. If I use the pan I usually go ahead and tack the pan gasket to the pan also and let it cure. After its cured remove the pan and the gasket should be held firmly to the pan with the RTV and the cork strip should be held to the block. For final assembly run a fat bead of RTV across the cork strip and in the corners where it meets the block. Now the pan can be installed without the gasket falling out of place. Been doing it this way for 30 years with great success. But like has already been mentioned there's no amount of sealer that will stop the oil leak if it's coming around a loose rear main. None of these V12s had rear rope seals just a slinger so if the rear main gets wear in it its gonna leak.

Along the frame.

Never seen a Hot Air Heater blower turned sideways like that.

Since you have the later engine and intake with the breather tube up to the air cleaner why not run it like it was originally.

Yes John, you can block it off . After 1937 the V12 did not have the draft tube from the oil filler.

The later V12s didnt have the tube that came off the oil filler pipe . They have the pipe from the intake to the breather only.

When you changed to 12 volts what did you do with the ignition resistors under the dash.? 39 Zephyr doesn't have an ammeter, it has a Battery condition gauge.

Here's how I done mine. I've done two Zephyrs like this.

Because it isn't necessary and I can't remove it by myself and then I have to find somewhere to store it out of the way to keep it from getting paint damage.

Just courious as to what the chain is attached to while lifting this engine. I have an apparatus that fits inside the lifter valley for the V8 Ford but of course it doesn't fit the V12. I usually remove the heads and hook the chain up to a stud on each side and like you can lift it in and out with the hood in place.

If your engine is a 37 it came with mechanical lifters . I'm thinking that the routing for the supply and return might be different than the later V12s with the hydraulic lifters. Maybe Cboz or someone else that has a correct 37 engine will shed some light on this.

Plugging it off keeps oil from feeding the lifters that's not needed with the adjustable lifters. Leaving it in place would cause a drop in oil pressure , not sure how much but I'd rather keep that oil feeding the cam & crankshaft bearings.

Check ball & spring should remain in the front and a small pipe plug , 1/8" I think it is, to replace the oil metering valve at the rear. Those valve settings should be good.

Yes, got the Hot Air Heater and it works very well.

Yes you can do this but you must use a spring spreader to disconnect the spring from the left side housing . Unbolt the radius rod from the housing and the brake line & cable . Remove the left housing and slide the whole differential assembly out . Of course this means you must have removed the hub on the right side. Take note of the gaskets on the left housing and replace them with the same thickness when you re-assemble it.

Ok all you Zephyr folks that live in the Northern states don't laugh. Here in Alabama snow doesn't come around much but it has snowed twice since Dec 9th.

Those pulleys are spot welded together from the factory. They are two piece stamped steel and the spots are in the bottom of the groove. I used a puller to remove the balancer then there is a snap ring on the engine side of the pulley that has to be removed. I then loosely clamped a large bearing separator against the pulley hub on the balancer side of the pulley then was able to slide the pulley off with a large two jaw puller. To install the new one you make sure the key way is lined up an then it just presses on then reinstall the snap ring.

This is the results of what happens when the spot welds turn loose on the crankshaft pulley. I've never seen one do this before. This happened to a friend a couple days ago. I've replace the pulley and now waiting on radiator to come back from shop. It had a soldering issue not related to the pulley failure so nows the time to address it while it's out.

Hi Tom, I have this clamp that fits onto the clutch pedal shaft and it operates the rod to the valve. Might be correct for your car if you don't have one. I got it with a bunch of Columbia controls and its Lincoln but not 39.