Ken/Alabama

Bearings and seal are the same as Ford used on their big trucks. Don't think the bushing is available. Fill it full of John Deere corn head grease. It's made for gear boxes and won't leak.

Good deal John. I love it when a plan comes together!

Yes. That's the one

Tom ,the wiper hose on the 39 came off the intake with tubing as you described then rubber hose up to the firewall . Where it goes through the firewall it has another section of tubing. Then rubber to the wiper motor. Yours may be the same.

Yes. That's the one

Have you checked to see how close the early Ford mount compares? Looks awful close, might be something that can made to work. I was was looking at the 33-34 mount and maybe trimming off the ears. The rear transmission retainer for the 36-37 Zephyr is the same as the 32-36 Ford. Therefore the ID should be the same.

Hi John, Check your messages. Give me a call if you want.

Have you checked to see how close the early Ford mount compares? Looks awful close, might be something that can made to work.

Have you checked to see how close the early Ford mount compares? Looks awful close, might be something that can be made to work.

Hi John, Boos-Herrel has that mount listed is his catalog. Might want to give Chris a call.

Call Allan Wheilihan in the parts source . He can probably help you.

I would send the coil to Skip Haney . Then you'll know it's good and won't put you on the side of the road . If your coil is original and hasn't been rebuilt , it will fail.

I can strobe and setup your distributor if needed.

Can anyone supply a picture of how the carpet looks originally on the two piece transmission cover for the 38-39 Zephyr? I'm thinking it has to be in a way that the rear portion can be removed without removing the whole cover.

Remove the fan from the dampener first via three bolts on the engine side of the dampener. Then remove the bolt holding the dampener and with a block of wood and a hammer try bumping it off the crank. Have used this method many times with success.

They were painted engine color

Got mine from Alan Whelihan in Maryland. My car is a 39, your mount looks a little different than mine. Maybe give him a call.

I would look at replacing the rear mount. Also check the bushings and shaft that operates the throw out fork for wear. Pull the front bearing retainer off and replace the front seal. There is no seal in the rear.

Nothing. It's like the V-8 Fords , the angle that the gears are cut causes the cam to thrust toward the rear of the block.

I have the capability to properly strobe and set up your V12 distributor on my Sun machine. Have done many V-8 & V-12 distributors.

There are no dates or numbers that will specify the year. You just have to look at the characteristics of the block . The later blocks 42 & up, will have a large hump along the side of the block along the oil pan rail to accommodate the large core plug.The center one will be larger than the ones on the end. On the earlier blocks all three of those humps are the same size. The bore sizes changed also. Early blocks 36-39 were 2 3/4 " .In 40-41 it went to 2 7/8. In 42 & very early 46 blocks were 2 13/16 . Then back to 2 7/8 until the end of production in 48.

Bad sending unit. Making the gauge sweep by grounding the wire at the sending unit verified that the gauge is working.

Grab the window moulding at the top and pull down and out . Once the moulding is removed then remove the upper door trim by prying it away from the door, held on with wire clips. Now it's time to remove the door handle and window crank. This is done by pushing in on the trim ring (or proper name is escutcheon )to expose the shank of the handle then with an ice pick or thin punch push the pin out , it can be in one of two positions cause the handle is drilled vertical and horizontal . One the handles are off use a stiff flat bar and go around the perimeter of the door panel prying it away from the door. If your car has an armrest pick up on the door panel to remove it. Roll the window in the up position,remove the regulator screws,then push the regulator to the inside of the door then lower regulator and glass to door bottom. In the lower window track there should be a stop screw and it needs to be removed. Then slide the regulator arms out of the track then pull the glass and lower track out of the top of the door.

26H is gonna be 42-48 . I'm pretty confident the other is 38-39.

The one on the right looks to be 38-39 Zephyr. Look around on the top tank for a 86H .