RAH

Guys, If I may without stepping on others toes It is my understanding that on Dodge Brothers victory and Std. 6 there are dual points actually in parallel. BUT these points are arranged mechanically so one set closes before the other and obviously the other opens later than the first. This essentially suffices to create a longer dwell period than the cam lobe would provide with just one set of points! Nothing so complex or sinister just a synthetic dwell extension without redesigning the distributer. Yes, the engine will run with just one set of those points. And as has been pointed out previously the condenser is across the parallel set of points. Keep it simple and don't overthink it! Rodger "Dodger"

Willy, Sorry, I misquoted your hub A is the one that changed in '19 so they could use the front hub Cap on all 4 corners. Check the pic.

Willy, The short answer is your hub A was used up to '19. See below. In '19 the rear hub was redesigned to use the front hubcap on all 4 corners. So your '18 may be a late series or someone may have swapped out one hub sometime. Suffice it to say either hub will work aesthetics aside.

strangeplant, That '34 Dodge Brothers switch is NOT designed for the bottom of the steering column. It id=s dash mounted and operated by a lever. The '34 has a weird headlight wiring system. In headlight Lo the switch connects to both Driver and Pass side headlights BUT in the HI position the Pass side connects to the hi filament however on the driver side there is a foot operated switch that dims that side by operating the foot switch. This foot operated dimmer switch affects ONLY the driver side headlight. I have a CLUM steering column switch 10661 (or 10681) If you like I can send pix. It does operate by the hollow shaft down the inside of the steering column shaft by a compression nut to capture it to that shaft. Send Me a PM for more info.

Franklinman, Before you get too involved in attempting to convert the single contact socket to a double contact you might check and see if there will be room inside that smallish lamp housing for the larger double filament bulb! Been there! Rodger "Dodger"

Hi, I also have a '27 Auto Red Bug. You should get in contact with Jed Rappaport (Carmaven) 484-225-0520 . See 'Cars Wanted' below.He has a roster of sorts and should be able to help. Rodger "Dodger"

Guys, If you check out this Mopar 802 (C4608) radio you will find that speaker is a Electro Dynamic (NOT PM). This is not a major problem as that field is hooked to the 6V DC power. However if you look at the schematic you will find the voice coil is listed as 30 ohm and is interconnected with the tone control. I guess the question is will a 8 ohm or more modern 3.2 ohm car radio speaker be a problem in that circuit? Perhaps an original speaker should be sourced. Perhaps another alternative would be to contact Radio Guy Bill or someone to retrofit the radio internals to modern solid state then you could use any speaker that would fit the physical parameters of the placement in the dash.

David, You mention your Dodge Brothers is a '28 Standard 6? The bulb shown is a double contact dual filament bulb. The Standard 6 used a 1141 6V single contact bulb with a resistor element on the power terminal strip on the right side of the cowl for what passes as lo beam. The parking lights were on a single socket in the upper part of the reflector when cowl lights were not installed. The Victory 6 I believe used a double contact bulb for low and hi beams instead of the resistor.

Ron, From the beginning the headlight lense was plain glass. The monogrammed lense with the DB logo was introduced around '21. Many have found these fancier lenses and retrofitted in earlier cars thus adding to the confusion. I hope this helps.

Platt, The quick answer is the Dodge Brothers used NEG ground from the beginning up to circa '23 roughly when the horn button was removed from the driver door (operated by the knee) to the top of the steering column. Then the switch to (still 12v) POS ground which continues into the 6V series and on up to the '50s. I hope this helps. Rodger "Dodger"

Why do you guys like to make things more complicated than necessary? Since there seems to be no 'Standard' in automotive engineers over many marques and vintages all you need to do is remove the distributor cap and check the direction of rotation of the rotor. Now get in and move your 'Spark timing lever' to one extreme and see which way the distributor housing moved. If it moved in the same direction of rotation then you have RETARDED the spark. If the distributor housing moved counter to the direction of the rotor you have ADVANCED the spark. Period end of story! Keep it simple.

Joe in Canada and George, It appears you have a Briggs & Stratton motor wheel and the front axle from possibly a Red Bug. As mentioned this concept started in '14 with A.O. Smith. Later in '17 Briggs bought in and later Automotive Standards and Automotive Specialties. Here is a pic of my '27 Auto Red Bug. These used a North East motor like Dodge Brothers but modified by removing the shunt field, third brush and fuse used as a 12V D.C. Motor. For further info regarding parts and progressive sequence of these companies I would suggest getting in contact with Jed Rappaport carmaven@gmail.com Good Luck Rodger "Dodger"

DB26 and Wheelmang, Guys you are both correct in that this fuel gauge with the hand sweeping straight across was used only a short time from A469745 (Oct '25) to A 689430 (Jun '26) . Also the fuel cap was twist-off with 2 lock pins and was used from A57835 (Mar '24) to A 677902 (Jun '26). There were SOOO many short term changes going on from '25 to '28 that it is a pain trying to keep things straight. Good Luck.

O.K. If I may continue as an unbiased observer several points seem ridiculously obvious but apparently myopically not so to some. That 'Antique Automobile Museum at Hershey' seems reluctant to join with the AACA 'officially' but still desires the assumed association for perceived benefits. Also it has been alluded to here that the AACA corporate is not interested in the burden of operating or maintaining a First Class Museum. That said, since the Museum seems to want to operate on its own 2 feet so be it! Here is a fact Either the Museum IS associated with the AACA OR it is, as I suspect, NOT so associated. Obviously it cannot have it both ways! If it is NOT then the only logical thing would be for the AACA Board to draft a legal "Cease and Desist" document to that 'Antique Automobile Museum at Hershey' to quit immediately the use of the letters 'AACA' or the phrase 'Antique Automobile Club Of America' with the exception in a mandated statement "NOT associated with the Antique Automobile Club of America" in any future Museum correspondence to the general public or anyone else. Further admonish that Museum to quit immediately the use of copyrighted logos, further use of intellectual property in the form of the AACA website, and to surrender any copies of the AACA membership database. Problem Solved! Second there should be a simple uncomplicated statement in the AACA news to enlighten the general membership that the 'Antique Automobile Museum at Hershey' is NOT associated with the Antique Automobile Club of America and any donations to said museum are NOT to be considered donating to the AACA. So, continue to support both organizations at your pleasure and simply understand they are separate entities! And Let the corporate lawyers on both sides take a rest. Any time lawyers are involved things get way too complicated and usually makes things worse! Yes, my observation. Don't you all wish it was just as simple as that?

McHinson and Steve, I'm sorry, but my observation of this mess is from an outsiders point of view. I am not personally acquainted with any members of either Board in question or the social cliques. My experience with Boards in general is that egocentric dictatorial attitudes can sometimes overwhelm logic or common sense with 'My way or the hiway' responses. Maybe it's time for both sides to step back and take a breather to reflect on what is ultimately best for the AACA and its members. And all the 'Armchair Quarterbacks' need to let the play go on and quit the second guessing!. Remember there are always two sides to any conflict! And yes I have accumulated and absorbed those 24 pages of data. All I can say now is Good Luck.

To AACA board and Museum board and other Club members, I have been reading ad nausea these missives and yes I am still for the time being a member of the AACA. This contentious 'Pissing Match' between these Boards is at least unprofessional and counterproductive to both! Previous missives allude to the AACA creating the Museum including financial support and the use of the term AACA and access to the club website, etc. Subsequent to the National AACA achieving 'non-profit' status and the seeming acknowledgement that the 'Library and Research Center' was somehow different from the 'Museum' which also achieved the 501(c)3 status. Almost immediately the 'Library' was absorbed into the AACA as part and parcel so to speak and not a separate entity. It is obvious this current power stretch to force the 'Museum' to either acknowledge being a separate entity NOT a part of the AACA OR submit to and relinquish individual operational function. Hence the observation of 'Power Grab' in the relation between Boards and a matter of Power and Control or at least the perception thereof. Unfortunately this is not just these Boards attitude as is obvious in other organizations I am still for the time being a member! These boards seem to acquire a dictatorial attitude and sometimes concentrate on things that affect small groups and not on things that affect the entire membership as an entity! Respectively submitted Rodger "Dodger"

Starlight, Lovely car. The 817 Philco was originally mounted to the inside firewall with two 'T' shaped threaded bolts long enough to go through inside padding and the sheet metal . You should make a cardboard pattern of the rear of the case with specific locations of those folded brackets . Then hold it up to consider what may be on the engine side that may interfere with those bolts. That radio will require a remote speaker in a case usually mounted to the firewall on the passenger side. Originally that speaker used a electromagnet which required 6v. power supplied from the radio as well as voice coil signal. When I rebuild I replace with a modern PM speaker this will significantly reduce the power draw. Obviously that radio shown will need a complete rebuild and possible rework of the 'Philco' twist type antenna connector to the more modern Motorola push in type and a solid state vibrator replacement.. The control head usually mounts under the edge of the dash but your Rockne curved bottom may present a problem. Also consider the length of the control cables when considering mounting. Also consider physical access the key lock on the left side of the control head . This locks the 'Switch-Volume' control to keep unwanted fingers from turning it on and drain the battery. I hope this helps. If I can help further send a PM.

That North East model O type 10004 was standard equipment on Dodge Brothers from '18 to '25. It was preceded by the Model O type 10000 which replaced the Delco unit in late '16 -'17.

Keith, Specifically what part of the speedo do you require? Or do you need the whole thing? Send me a PM.

Terry, Does this count? Here am I back in '64 with my favorite '58 BMW Isetta 300 Motocoupe. I just returned from the train station with mom's Christmas care package via Railway Express. I have owned several of these fun cars over the years and still have one which was acquired some 40 years ago. AH the good ole' days! Right?

Terry, OOPS!

Guys, I do understand the 'Entertainment Value' BUT , yes I am interested in correct historic facts regarding the Brothers Dodge, I am annoyed with the continued perpetuation of that 'MODEL 30" designation of their new car! There is absolutely no evidence I have been able to ascertain for fact that the Brothers ever used that model designation. Current view is that some inept DMV employee could not leave the model designation on his form blank so instead inserted the car horsepower ( 30 - 35) in that spot and the error was off and running. The Brothers Dodge specifically did NOT use the industry standard of model number and annual model changes instead chose to use a continuing upgrading as time goes on. In fact model numbers were absent from the Dodge Brothers line up to 1927 then identified as 'Series' 126,124, 128, 130, 140, etc. All this long after the Brothers were both deceased. I was also a little put off by all the time spent focusing on FORD while basically skimming past the Brothers Dodge who were responsible for the running gears of Fords basically from the beginning far before that sacred Model T. If similar emphasis were applied to the Dodge Brothers one would give due respect to the work of Fredric Haynes , the Brothers right hand man, who was basically responsible for creating a company to produce complete automobiles instead of just parts for someone else' car! Imagine the job of starting from scratch setting up a production facility to create the parts in house and/or purchasing like 'all steel' bodies from E.G.Budd, leaf springs from Detroit Spring works, wheels from Hayes with Standard Welding Co rims, Radiator from McCord, all the electrics which represented over 10% of the final price of the car, etc., etc, But the FORD name probably has more commercial identity and needs to fit the 2 hr. time frame. Other than that I guess it was somewhat 'entertaining'.

Hey you guys. I do have the perfect tool for this type of screw. It is called a hack saw. Makes a perfect slot for a regular screw driver!