Jump to content

RAH

Members
  • Posts

    284
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by RAH

  1. Mark, Thank you kind Sir for your response. I had anticipated some negative response due to the unconventional location of these lights. However I did walk back the equivalent of several car lengths and these lights (especially when flashing) ARE fairly obvious. I was initially inspired by a fairly modern European Mercades with that solenoid operated flag type signal lights in similar locations on the side of their car they should work on my car. I like to think outside the proverbial BOX. And the overall price was MUCH better than most of the other units available today. And in response to the potential passenger using one for assistance in access or egress would think MOST Antique Auto types would have a bit more common sense . Also in deference to my uncommon light location, what about those vintage Vaccuum operated units that were fastened to the upper windshield that slid out with a hanging 'L or R" in their units? Continue having FUN!
  2. Guys, I was considering adding turn signals for my '28 Dodge Brothers Cabriolet and disliked the idea of running 4 wires All over the chassis. I decided on a variation of the European side light idea. That requires only One wire for each light and snakes across the inside of the dash and slips back under the door sill and up behind the side upholstery panels. I started with a truck style fender marker light, discarded those sticking out lenses, and created a pattern and cast a pair of flat lenses for each of the lights ( one for each side). I am using a vintage turn signal switch that has L , R and Hazard (both), lights. A machinist friend turned the pedestal mounting posts from stainless steel. I built These in Homage to something that could look like it could have been available in the period. ENJOY!
  3. Guys, Interesting problem. I Just had a flash of dumb thoughts. Have you tried to turn the engine over with a crank??? If the engine was 'Froze up' NO starter in the world will engage and spin it!! Not being a smart ass, but when all common logic does not provide an answer I generally look 'Outside the Box' so to speak. Let us know what your success. Good Luck!
  4. Guys, I concur with the suggestion of a DIY repair. However instead of BONDO What I used many years ago was a trip to a local Bowling alley to get a 2 or 3 part epoxy repair they use on their bakelite{?} scratch or chip repairs on Bowling Balls. Next was a source for a black Vinyl paint after the appropriate 'V'ing and sanding of the repair spots. Worked quite well . The filler material is the same color as the wheel composite so after paint it all matched and the repair was invisible! That was on a '34 Dodge Brothers KC pickup. Good Luck!
  5. Guys, The original Houk Hayes hubcap wrench fits snugly on the hex of the cap and automatically depresses that lock tab. What is that black goop? By the way you should note the spare wheel Hubcap is Aluminum Not brass and is inscribed "FOR SPARE ONLY" Good Luck
  6. Harry, What is the problem with the dash clock in question? The most common problem with these self winding clocks is the contact surface degrading over time and not allowing the rewind solenoid to ratchet back the spring. F.Y.I. I had the opportunity to disassemble one for a 55 Chrysler that simply did not run. I cleaned those contacts and it ran for one cycle and refused to rewind. Having been involved in Electronics most of my life I decided to add a transistor to carry the load of that rewind solenoid and remove the high current loads from the rewind contacts. As far as I know that clock is still working. Here is a diagram that any enterprising technician should be able to retrofit for you. AND NO I do not wish to do it again. That was an experiment for a friend that happened to work fine. The schematic I provide is only for the most common failure of those dash clocks and not for problems with mechanism, broken spring or accumulation of crud inside . By the way the transistor should be able to operate on 6 or 12volt systems just use the correct polarity transistor and don't forget to add the diode across the coil in Poper orientation to eliminate the collapse of field to protect the transistor. Good Luck and Best Wishes! 
  7. I basically concur with the majority of interpretations of that ubiquitous word RARE. I personally interpret it as having a car or something that is unlikely to have another one similarly fitted slide up and park beside you at ANY car show. Here is my 1915 Dodge Brothers roadster fitted with a bunch of 'Period' accessories. The rarest and most expensive is the REX Winter Top which cost nearly $200.00 back in the day. The 5 mph spring loaded Buckeye front bumper was on the car when I bought it. So I created patterns and had a set cast and fitted for the rear to emulate the function of the one on the front. YES I made those but did so in an ohmage to the front set. Those Turn signals were located at various swap meets. They were made in '17 in San Fransisco Ca. by the DIAMOND Electric Signal Co. It took a few years to complete the set of four with the proper controller. And YES I also created patterns and cast that radiator mascot. It was my answer to a Chrysler Commercial in which I took issue with their scaling. It is one of a kind. SO. OOPS I forgot one more rare DB accessory That would be the R.H. Hassler coil spring shock absorbers. These look like those you see at swap meets but are beefier and the mounting castings are specifically designed for the Dodge Brothers chassis instead of those for the FORDs I must say since installing those Hasslers I have not noticed a significant difference in the ride BUT I do not regularly drive on bumpy dirt roads as a rule. SO Continue to enjoy your RARE whatever cars and keep having fun!
  8. I hope this helps figure out which TAILLIGHT will be correct for your car. Enjoy!
  9. Guys, This taillight study has been ongoing for a while. Here are some data to answer questions about DB taillights. The early taillights were E&J model 25 but there were different configurations. This basic light in varying configurations continued from the beginning up to 1923. The oval DB TYPE B was introduced in '24 with the addition of a STOP light. That oval design was only used for '24. The round DB type B was used from '25 to '29. There were several slight variations. The '27 SENIOR was purported to be Nickle plate instead of plain Black and the '28 Victory hat a tapered 'V' wedge impressed on top like the 'V' om the top of the front fenders. Those had the "DB TYPE B" script tilted over to the side..
  10. Boy time flies when you are not paying attention. My first Antique Car was purchased when in High school. That was in 1958. It was a 1930 Ford Murray Bodied sedan. Man that was a learning experience. It ran but not well. I learned some about engines and had the engine sleeved to get the compression back to specs. I learned the hard way about 'timing' when taking a trip down to a drive in movie. On the way down I noticed it was running HOT and didn't have as much power as I thought it should. I pulled over to inspect and found that the spark lever control rod was not connected to the distributer. I guess I forgot to reconnect it after the engine rebuild. It was running full retard. After it cooled down and I refastened that rod wow it scurried up the hiway like it should do! It's the little things in life that count. It had well worn to non existent upholstery. A friend of Dad ran an upholstery shop and I took the A down to his shop one Sat. He looked at it and said "I won't do that BUT You will and I will show you how! That was an unexpected learning experience that I am forever appreciative of. Actually, Upholstery is not all that scary once you are properly introduced to it. I NOW have a good old SINGER industrial 604 Machine and enjoy using it. I give credit to that Model A for getting me started in '"Antique Cars". Over time I have acquired several Dodge Brothers cars and enjoy researching those. I am charter member (#90) of the Dodge Brothers Club. Gotta Keep Busy!
  11. Guys, I have been involved in electronics for as long as I can remember and had to learn how those irritating Magnetos actually work, My '15 Dodge Brothers had a Eisenman G4 mag from the factory and it quit dead on the exit ramp of a ferry while on a tour. How embarrasing. I had it repaired and all was well until it again years later in the middle of a 4 lane freeway intersection on a tour It just quit like someone flipped a switch. This time I disassembled it to find why for myself. You all know how to shut off an engine with a mag is by shorting the armature to ground thus eliminating the field build up to collapse when the armature is in alignment with the Horeshoe magnets. There are points in one end of the armature AND yes, a capacitor in the opposite end of that armature behind a bakelite High tension insulating wafer. In basic theory the magneto is not too electrically different from the common coil and distributor ignition system. The coil (in distributor system) is like the winding on the magneto armature with points normally closed while the armature is rotating to a position where its poles are in alignment with those magnets , and at the right time those points open allowing that armature field to collapse causing the spark. As mentioned, there is a capacitor , usually in the opposite end of that armature, which is in parallel with the points connecting the windings of that armature and just like the capacitor in the coil and distributor system can cause the system to QUIT. Suffice it to say a decreasing magnetism in those magnets is NOT likely to cause a MAG to just QUIT! My favorite mantra is 'Every connection is a potential DIS-connection" AND NO I do not wish to work on anyone else's MAG.! I hope this helps understand the Magneto system.
  12. Guys, I concur that this star is NOT a dodge Brothers Approved unit. As I understand the brothers were adamant that the word 'BROTHERS" should Not be truncated to 'Bros' in any of their bits and pieces.
  13. Guys, As usual I keep learning something NEW nearly every day. As it happens My '15 Dodge Brothers uses a Jones Model 25 speedometer. In fact from their beginning up to S/N 22810 (late July early August '15) used that Jones model 25. My Early Aug '15 roadster has the Jones. Suffice it to say I was unaware of a Jones automobile until tonight. Thanks for that. Rodger "Dodger"
  14. Jan, Here are a couple pix. of a local '19 Screenside. I took pix of it some years ago. I hope these help. Your restoration looks amazing. Good work.
  15. Guys, This problem sounds like a faulty capacitor in the distributer. That cap is in parallel with the points and a leaky cap will let the coil draw current and NOT let the points get to an OPEN circuit where the spark occurs. I would recommend removing the capacitor from the distributor then see if the engine will start in a regular fashion. DO NOT run it for any time without that cap in place as it may cause excess wear on the points. O.K. for a test.
  16. Guys Looks like They are for '21 - '22 Dodge Brothers Roadster. See Attached.
  17. MikeC5, et all. Why didn't someone note when he opened the driver side hood the oil level indicator ( that pin sticking up between Cyl 1 and 2) showed little OR no oil in the engine and much noise when out on the hiway. Just sayin'. Yes those wire wheels are quite nice and not factory equipment. He will need a completely different spare wheel carrier. Could those wheels be Buffalo? Lots of mods in the engine area from a factory '24. Nice car. Much potential!
  18. Nat and Minibago, Those screws are NOT used in fastening those trim parts to the top of the board.. Is this possibly unique to Australian usage? In U.S. production those trip parts are nailed to the edge of the floor boards . At least on all of the used boards I have in a stack. I have been saving them specifically for those aluminum (zinc) trim parts. Leaving them ON the boards make it easier to keep them in order of vintage rather than in a box of loose parts . And YES these boards are replacement boards copied from the original ones.
  19. If I recall correctly that headlight switch has a un used terminal (#2). That is a connection for the wire coming out from the bottom of the column to continue via the wire harness wire going up to the ground to operate the horn.
  20. That 3 digit key (NOT YALE) looks like the door and ignition lock on my '28 Standard 6 Cabriolet. I presume closed car bodies had the locking doors. Not certain regarding open cars having outer door locks.
  21. Guys, Interesting no one mentioned the color of the linoleum. From the beginning with Black open cars the color was tan. When the sedans and coupes came out which had Blue below the belt line they switched to Grey. Apparently they felt grey went better with the blue bodies. And I did not find any specific color reference in the MPB.
  22. And here is a followup. I believe the Boss Bolted spokes didn't happen until '23
  23. Guys, There is a chart done years ago that will explain the wheels used on Dodge Brothers cars. I hope it helps.
  24. Guys, Here is a blow up of that data plate. It appears to be Canadian. I hope this helps.
×
×
  • Create New...