strangeplant

Hi, I'm in need of bumper guards to hold my front bumper slats together. This is for a 1928 Hudson, and in that year, the bumpers were optional, and often put on by a dealership. Bumpers are not specific to that vehicle. I have good rear bumpers made by the Weed Bumper Company, so I'm looking for three bumper guards like the one in the attached picture. Or maybe an entire Weed front bumper. Hoping that someone has these in their garage. If you have something I can use, call me at 973 dot 713 dot 9858. or email me at strangeplant <at> gmail.com Thanks, Tom Legbandt in New Jersey

Sagefinds, can you post your pics of the larger shock belt mounts, please? I'm hoping they will fit a 1-1/2" wide belt. Let me know. Thanks, Tom

You are kidding! This sure looks like the genuine lost Hudson switch! Everything about it - its uncanny - can it really be?

In the past, I've heard of one of these selling for $350 to $450. I've never seen one myself, except on a museum car, or a car at Hershey. I've been looking for three years. They just do not exist and tend to self-destruct because of the high amps load of the headlights. I'm going to solve that by using relays under the dash. The switch does not have a stamped number as far as I know. The following is the best picture I can find. Not too helpful. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZQL0B4nYYN9dFglNHtQOnAvYylDxcKA7/view?usp=sharing Shows the switch on the end of the steering column. The terminals come off the body at 80 deg angle. The switch internally has 11 contacts in a circle. The Dodge switch has 12. No big difference. I just need to know where the terminals attach to for the Dodge, should be something like 1 Off, 2 Brake lite enabled, 3 running and cowl light on,4 low beam headlight, 5 high beam headlight. Switch did have a fuse (not needed) and a dropping resistor wire coil for the low beam (can be done off-switch). The center shaft was hollow, with the horn wire passing through, and that can be drilled. I think its totally proper to construct this missing switch any way I can and if I can keep a car working by using a modified Dodge switch, well, that's the way its gotta be. There is a long procedure worked out and available to replace the contact innards of a destroyed or inoperable switch using the mechanical assembly. I was just hoping to find someone with a wiring diagram for the Dodge so I can apply that to my car. That's all.

Well, I suppose I could do that, but the intent might also fail or end up non-standard. I'll do it if still for sale.

I got a 1934 Dodge Clum 9526 from eBay with the intent of adapting it to my Hudson car. It will take some machining, and I can do that. I'm looking for information on the original designed use connections to this switch so I can apply it correctly. If lucky, I won't need to modify it at all. Anyone happen to have a 1934 Dodge?

BTW, there is one more available if anyone else needs one. So rare.

Its not the right one, but I can make it work, and that is all that counts. I'll cut the shaft off at the cross hole, take the thing apart and put it in the lathe. Put a taper at the end of the shaft, trim the threaded section back to expose longer shaft and thread it there to make the end of a closing chuck. Drill a through hole 0.281 diameter to mate with the steering column shaft. Make a taper closing nut out of a 1/4" brass flare nut. Then rearrange the contacts. I'm so fortunate that Hans1 spotted this and posted the link. Many thanks, Hans1, I really appreciate your help. I've been looking for a very long time. This probably came out of a rod rat modification, I'll bet. No other way it would exist. Regards, /Tom

These are impossible to find as replacements. Rebuilding is sometimes possible. But, many of us need the real thing. In my case, I don't have anything. Its gone. These switches did fit a number of cars besides the early Hudson, e.g. Studebaker, Lincoln, even tractors and airplanes. So I do not understand why someone by now hasn't produced a generic replacement. OK, yes, I suppose that I could use a model A Ford lighting switch, but that would really hurt me a lot. Any answers for the switchless?