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RAH

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Everything posted by RAH

  1. RAH

    1918 DB starter

    The quick answer is time! see attached.
  2. Looking at the pic of those two caps, I believe one with vent hole is for Commercial Car (Screenside) where the fuel tank is under the seat. The correct one for the '15 should have NO vent hole since it needs to maintain pressure. Nice looking car by the way.
  3. This was pre Covid at a local 'Car Show'. I was a bit hesitant but mine was the tallest and oldest at the show and always had a group of lookers. It is a 1915 Dodge Brothers roadster with many period accessories the most expensive of which is that Rex Top nearly $200.00 original in the day. Enjoy!
  4. mlavin73, The important part that would narrow this down is missing. The identifying data would be on the switch contact assy. It does appear to be for Dodge Brothers from '24-'25 however.
  5. Guys, The reason that cutout looks funny is because it is an old headlight relay. It was used to reduce the current through the factory headlight switch which via. the relay which now only handles the current through the relay coils.
  6. Guys, As you can see from Machinist Bill's post from Ditzler Company, the Dodge Brothers original designation for engine color was "Ditzler Motor Grey". Unfortunately it was NOT a 'color fast' formula and had a tendency to vary over time NOT specifically or caused by heating and oxidizing although that may also have an effect. It has been described as a Grey 'porch and deck' enamel with a hint of green. This is relative only to 4-cyl DB engines not the later 6's.
  7. Alsance, Not a RR but here is a rare tool kit for a BMW 300 Isetta Motocoupe. Enjoy!
  8. Here are some data that should help. It is for Dodge Brothers but your Buick body looks very similar. Enjoy!
  9. Frank, I have much data on the Rex Co. Give me a PM and we can talk. Nice car, by the way! Do you still have it?
  10. Poppy 510, You are correct in that the Standard series is model 140 and the prefix letter would be "J". The Victory was series 130 and their prefix letter was "M'. There are series 140 Instruction books. Perhaps that series 130 book was all the previous owner could find?
  11. Poppy 510, My Std. chassis No. J-28xxx with engine. No. J-37xxx.and was built Apr-May '28. So with your engine No. of J89xxx your car would nearly the last one built and should have a chassis No. around that J-75xxx area in Dec.
  12. It clearly says right here in the instruction manual.... OH Never mind this is the left phone not the right one.
  13. With engine turning clockwise Goes like ^*)) backwards but NO forward!
  14. Guys, I think it is more important to ask yourself what is your reason for shopping for vintage signage? Are you looking for something nice looking to decorate your man cave, OR are you looking for some future investment to make money without doing something to earn it? I have been looking at the rediculous exorbitant prices on fleabay for bent scratched seriously overpriced pieces of crap that I personally would not make space for on any of my walls, even in the crapper! I definitely would rather buy a beautiful repop for decorating my shop. Anyway that is my take on the 'real' or 'repro' idea.
  15. Thank you kind Sir! Your information has been passed on.
  16. Friend looking for a replacement coil for 1918 Cadillac V8
  17. Follow Up. That young man seated in the first photo, with a bit of coaching, drove the car off the show field and over to the parking lot to be loaded in my van. To say he was elated would be an understatement. Later I heard him talking to his uncle and thought he should have one and could he buy him one! Ha! We need to encourage the young to appreciate our passions.
  18. Not DB specific but Small Talk related. I figure these munchkins couldn't brake things I could not fix on my '27 RED BUG and they seemed to enjoy! The 'Lil Rascals is just for fun!
  19. TexRiv_63, As usual questions here seem to create all sorts of questionable answers and frequently go off topic. I admit I am not specifically familiar with the '34 Chev BUT I do restore antique car radios and while rebuilding a '35 Delco from Chev I was curious why there were dual contacts on the radio power switch. One set was obvious Power through Normally Open contacts to the radio supply. The other set of Normally Open contacts was fastened to ground and out of the radio? Long story short the Chev had a interesting design in that the 'field' terminal on the generator (that terminal next to the cutout relay with your jumper to ground) originally went to a field resister up in back of the headlight switch. That resister would be connected to that terminal on the generator next to the cutout relay. When the headlight switch is turned ON (Or in the case of turning ON the radio) that resister would be shorted out and thus increase the generator output to accommodate those increased loads. That cutout relay is just that. It disconnects the generator when its output is less than the battery voltage so it will not run the battery down acting like a motor instead of a generator. I hope this helps.
  20. Gunsmoke, The series 140 is the '28 Standard 6. The '28 Victory is series 130. I 'm certain someone on this site will respond. Good Luck.
  21. Trini and guys you do NOT need to pull the steering wheel to access the horn wire. That horn wire is fastened to the button in canter of the bakelite levers which are secured to concentric shafts and secured at the bottom of the steering gear with those linkages to the timing and throttle override. Take MANY pix BEFORE disassembling those. You will need to pull those levers out a bit and find a snap ring that holds the bakelite horn disk to a notched flange on the inner (smaller diameter) tube. The horn wire extends through a fitting in the top flange. It is soldered up at the top and extends all the way down inside that tube and exits past those adjustment fittings and continues over to the frame and goes up PAST that terminal block and continues in back of the vacc tank over to one of the two terminals on the horn. The other horn terminal goes back to that terminal block to the bottom (power) terminal. Been there and done that. Not an easy fix. Good Luck!
  22. Guys and Broker-Len, If you note the oil pump is inside the engine near where that projection sticking out where the oil pressure relief spring is located and supplies oil to that galley along the side just under the water side plate. That oil exits that galley and 'Ts' where the oil pressure gauge line and the line through the filter and directly back into the block just under where the filter is mounted. The filter has nothing to do with cleaning oil TO the rods, etc. It is a bypass system and filters out 'Stuff' in a direct loop from that galley back to the pan. Just F.Y.I.
  23. Dale, Additionally I am curious why there would be two transmissions back top back. Obviously this was intended as a tractor designed for torque not speed. I suspect in granny low on both trannies you could walk along beside it at a slow pace without much effort!
  24. Dale, As was mentioned the engine numbers were roughly 50,000 higher than the car chassis number which would make the chassis number around A-120,000 ish. Unfortunately that chassis number will be partially obscured by the ONLY remaining fender. That number will be stamped on the side of the frame up under that fender near or above the rear spring shackle and will be prefixed by the 'A-" Judging by the steep angle of the toe board I would suggest this chassis was a roadster in a previous life. Are there any numbers stamped on the engine side of the firewall? Normally these body numbers would be irrelevant in identifying vintage but in this case there may be a prefix of either A 'T' or a 'R' before that number which could assist in the body type.
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