2seater

Those coolers are very prone to rusting, depending on where you live and I believe they are all steel. If this cooler hasn't been worked on in the past, you should find a twin hose clamp on both ends of the cooler. If the cooler doesn't look crusty, it may just need the clamps repositioned and tightened. Since this is lower than the reservoir and it is a return line, it will drain all of the fluid in the pump and reservoir so be prepared to catch a quart or so if you remove the line. As for GM parts, I am pretty sure not available.

I have had to do the cleaning a couple of times in more than 25 years of ownership. Needs to be done when you lose a function or two on the climate control. In my case I can only make the temperature go down, not up 😣

They are made by Sumitomo and likely a discontinued pattern from their mainline tires. I have a set of Riken's on mine, a Z rated summer tire, which is owned by Michelin and are also a tread pattern once used on their main tire line. The other factors like noise and date code are certainly factors.

Hard to make out that second one. Passengers side output, correct??

You guys are too much 😎 and a big thumbs up

I remember a similar problem on my '90 a couple of decades ago. I got the wrong size bushings initially and contacted the dealership I bought them from and they sent another set but even they were tough to install, so the size may not have been correct either. At the time we were buying parts from a guy named Dallas Slabaugh at a dealership (Van de Veere??) in Ohio, but I don't remember much more about it, unfortunately. I do remember they were color coded, I think one was orange and the closer one was blue. Not very scientific. I do know that looking at the antiroll bar on the '89's, they look much thicker. I found I saved one original bushing which is just under 1" diameter, so 23-24mm sounds about right, the only number on it is AHA with a 12 below. I also have one of the new incorrect bushings, much smaller. It has a list of three part numbers on it, 3545376-Blue, xx78-White, and xx80-Orange. There is a paint smear on it but the color and dirt has faded that to beige. The id of the new (incorrect) bushing is ~5/8" or ~16mm?? Using that first part number in a search comes up as a Cadillac part, so maybe it will help in the search?

Check the switch at the pump itself. If it has fluid in it, the switch is leaking and must be replaced. My son has Daves89's winter car and he was having similar issues. Found the fluid in the switch caused the on and off pump pressures to be too low, approx. 1000psi low. Replaced switch and built pressure as it should but pump sounded terrible. Replaced the pump/motor assembly and all was well. Disecting the assembly afterwards found nothing wrong with the pump or motor, but must have gotten air locked. Bleeding the pump by applying vacuum to the outlet, brought it all back to life and will pump 3500psi with no problem.

You must not be familiar with Padgett?

Usually can smell antifreeze in the exhaust, and probably seals up when warm . It is not uncommon for the intake manifold to erode around the coolant passage at the left rear port, at least that is my experience. If not leaking externally it's about 1/2" to #6 intake port, but then both seals would need to be bad? Of course a headgasket could do the same. Any water in the oil, or contamination in the coolant?

Nice installation. I believe they were all painted flat black from the factory, for the same reason.

It is a sloppy job for sure so I install Fumoto valves in place of the plug. Draining the oil hot is a snap. Now if something could be done about the filter?

I suspect it is where the hard line connects to the hose on the muffler at the compressor. It rubs on the plastic louvered filler panel in the bottom of the engine bay. I was lucky enough to have a good one on my donor car to repair my sons. It is a design flaw which might be helped by gently bending the hard line a little with the part off the car.

Did you notice it said no longer available?

I don't know why I didn't post in this thread earlier, but mine is my daily driver from May through October, pretty much every year since 1994. As a matter of fact just drove in from my cottage an hour ago, a 50 mile trip.

Aren't the rear speakers on an 89 like the door speakers up front? I know the front is an actual tweeter up high and it has a crossover to filter out the lows from the small speaker and I thought the rear was the same? If so, I would believe the main feed wire to the larger speaker would be connected to the 6x9. Is it a coax type or just a bass type?

I don't know why I am having such a tough time uploading photos but that's the reason for the multiple posts. In any case, this is a comparison of a rocker from a '95 s/c engine on the right and an LN3. The '95 rocker is a bit of a surprise as I had purchased a single rocker from a local Buick dealer and it was clearly a casting, not this stamping, so maybe they gave me something from a Series II? In any case, the differences still remain even though these look like clones. The '95 rocker with the roller trunnion is slightly wider and longer. The roller assembly will not drop into the older model stamping. The guideplate is more of a single piece and less robust than the hardened steel plate we have. Since the rocker is different than what I saw before, it may be possible the whole late model assembly could be retrofitted if the stud holes are bushed smaller to accept the new rocker. That experiment will need to wait for now.

I agree it would be nice to find higher ratio rockers but there seems to be precious little for our orphan engines. There is stuff for the later Series I & 2 but something is different about the geometry as mentioned earlier. I looked at some Ford stuff too, which use a 1.6 ratio as standard too but so far no soap. The ratio increase to ~1.7 would net valve lift similar to what the original '88 cam had but without having to get into the engine internals. Get yourself a spare manifold and start cutting it up and modify as you will. Probably make little difference without other mods but may sound different. Eventually I will install this one, which is now ceramic coated, probably on my future s/c variant or the half turbo one.

That is interesting. Back when I did a programmer modification with external vacuum solenoids, I am pretty sure I had acquired another one from someone, and noted either the wiring or tubing colors were different than the existing? I will see if I still have it but I think I initially chalked that up to being from a different model car. While I am writing this (slow typist) I now remember the solenoids inside the controller were also located differently relative to their tubing color.

If you are in the process of looking at vacuum leaks, do not overlook the pcv system buried under the rear spark plug wires behind the intake plenum on the passengers side, sort of behind the power steering pump. Vacuum line replacement is inexpensive and a good idea if suspect. I have found even if not brittle, if they leave a black residue when running your hands over them, they are getting porous and may seep.

It never hurts to install a new O2 sensor. I cannot say for certain if it would show lean if it causes a misfire or anything else to upset the exhaust in the pipe. Yes, there is only the one O2 sensor in the rear exhaust manifold.

I would certainly verify the fuel pressure is what it should be. I just went through this issue with an '89 that had difficulty starting, but would run after starting. Found the fuel pressure was 33psi maximum and when the tank was pulled and the pump removed, the pump looked brand new, but the hose that replaced the factory pulsator would slip right off with little resistance. I believe the unclamped hose leaked enough to keep the fuel pressure at a bare maintenance level only. The O2 reading is indeed dead lean, so either it is defective, the ECM has an issue or the fuel supply is inadequate. That said, the O2 sensor must be good and hot to get reliable readings.

The "set" button for the cruise control. It will also decrease cruise control speed setting if already in cruise.

I believe you have an issue with the idle air control if it requires additional air via the throttle to get started, or, the throttle position sensor is misadjusted. Do you know how to get into diagnostics to read codes or sensor data?

I know it is the standard convention to start with #1 cylinder, but if you use a different starting point, it makes more sense and is easy to figure out the pairs of cylinders on each coil, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, first and fourth, second and fifth, third and sixth. Coils are generally marked with the proper number and I know the Magnavox diagram above is correct. Don't have my Delco here at the moment.