2seater

From the included diagram for the pass key, it not only prevents starter engagement, it also prevents cranking fuel enable. As Ronnie's comment states, the park-neutral switch is the last connection before the starter. Bypassing the starter seems like it should run unless that pass key is also stopping fueling.

As Dave says, the oem stuff is hard to beat for fit and quality. The 114.3 is the 4.5" standard bolt circle, such as on a Mustang. They do work with care to be sure they are centered and the hub being a close fit, but your results may vary.

Uh, might want to check the math. 2 2/3 cans is one quart? As far as I understand both dot 5 and 5.1 are silicone based fluid which is incompatible with our anti lock system.

Good to hear more videos and line replacements are in the future. I look forward to that.

Thanks for sharing the video, Yup, that worked fine to get the video. I had visions of chiropractor and ibuprofen 🙃 watching the gyrations to get to the mounts and I now pull the seat to do any extensive work under the dash area. I agree a good video refresher for the Teves swap. I too agree the compression fittings are an unfortunate choice. I personally have not tried the Harbor Freight flare nut wrenches but I have tried both grades of wrenches sold at the local Napa store, and the low priced wrenches, (a set of three cost nearly the same as one of the high end), just didn't work well for me. The expensive wrench holds their dimension and resist spreading much better.

Maybe it's me but I can't get link to work?

Ahh so, makes perfect sense. I never looked into the pass key system as never had an issue.🥵 That diagram includes the non-flashing security light too I see. So in theory, it should work with the passkey bypassed with a resistor?

I'm assuming the ignition switch was in run when it was cranked? I understand the starter interrupt issue but why would it quit?

It looks like it was blinking at the lower left for a couple seconds right at the beginning prior to turning the key. I wish my car was home to verify what you should see.

I agree, the whole car allows for all the little odd stuff you may need. As for transplanting the whole engine or just the supercharger, it really depends on why the Riv is in the yard. If the engine is sound, it makes the most sense to transfer the whole thing. If the engine has problems then it may pay to transfer the top end to an existing LN3. I planned on doing a transfer to a fresh LN3 long block I have and I have a complete 95 s/c engine on the stand and am debating maybe resurrecting the s/c engine? In any case, when the engine was pulled for me by the salvage yard, they left the torque converter attached to the flexplate. When I checked the part number of the torque converter, I found it was compatible with the LN3 and 440T4 trans in the car. Sort of a bonus.

Easy to check and never say never? I would think just a wrench on the damper bolt would give an immediate idea if the engine can turn over, although it is somewhat obstructed.

I was thinking it is time for a voltmeter connected to the starter battery stud and look for a big voltage drop. That looks like a mini starter which shouldn't have a giant draw. Maybe I am spoiled by having a first rate starter and alternator rebuilding service located locally, but when I have a doubt, it goes there for diagnosis. Not knocking the FLAPS but I have more faith in a specialist.

Thanks for the slow mo, it really helped. Funny, it even sounds better, but are you trying for continuous engagement or just momentary as the clip shows? I have no idea what that test report means. Is this a scan through the aldl or is this from a test of the starter??

I tried pausing that clip a couple of times and I don't see a complete starter gear there. Maybe I just was too slow but it sounds terrible in any case.

Do you have a second key to try, or clean the contacts for the resistor in the key.

Hey Nic, didn't recognize it was you.

I use the better part of two quarts to do a flush and refill. What the actual system capacity is, I do not know.

I don't want to pile on either, but a compression fitting like that, even if it sealed, doesn't have the pressure rating required for the brake system. It is also difficult to get that type to seal on a steel line that won't deform. Usually they are used on softer materials, copper for one, but also plastic with an inner support. The flare is pretty straightforward to make, with a little practice, far easier than an inverted double flare as used previously. The fittings illustrated earlier weren't what you used???

Good deal on the o-ring seal, I had never seen such before in similar applications. I admit I am a bit lost on the term compression fitting. I saw the reference earlier and assumed it was used in a generic sense as the parts pictured were not a conventional compression fitting as I know them. What did the end of the tube look like that broke off of the steel brake line? This is a bubble flare as used on the pump output steel line.

You have been busy. I have never had an early '88 pump pressure line apart so this is only conjecture: usually I see some form of crush washer, usually copper, on both sides of a banjo style fitting. Was there any remnant of a visible seal on the hose fitting?

Yah just never know where things may go in the future. Younger generations not into cars as much? Or as I have mentioned in the past that my 1975 AMC Pacer: on the ugly car lists, orphan car lists and the butt of incessant jokes, appears to be worth similar money to what this car just sold for. And that's not for a pristine example. I am sure everyone knows I am more in Dave's camp, or I wouldn't modify and fool with them as I do. Just different strokes. I do enjoy driving it and the Reatta experience, but not as an investment. JMO By the way, I do agree with Y-Job that the white letter tires were the wrong vibe. They just need to be remounted black side out.

12 packs are always good, oh wait, we're talking about brake lines☹️ What is depicted looks exactly like what you need. Disassemble at least part of it for a sample as suggested.

Good advice here. I don't think there is a proportioning valve anywhere near the front, there is something at the rear "axle". I replaced all the brake and fuel lines at the rear on my '89 with splices approx. under the driver. Butt splice fittings and such are readily available for the flares and work well, plus easy enough to do under the car where there was a straight run.

I guess there may be some hope for adapting early and late styles. I didn't dig too deep but google brings up this when searching for banjo to bubble flare adapter:

I cannot help you with what the broken line does or where it is routed, but I can tell you the steel lines use metric bubble flares and fittings. The nice thing about bubble flares is the ease of making them with hand tools vs the typical double flare from days gone by. Regarding the connection difference at the pressure port of the pump: you will see the difference when the hose and steel line fittings are removed. There may be some sort of adapter out there that attaches with a banjo bolt and has a female metric bubble flare to transition to your steel line but I do not know where.