Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 2seater

  1. Very interesting. Is that front fascia below the stock Reatta lights actually bolted on place? It certainly does lend a different look and opens up other lighting possibilities
  2. Check the vacuum connection at the fuel pressure regulator for evidence of fuel in the hose and check the O2 sensor activity and cross counts in diagnostics
  3. I know it happened on the red car my son has. Even though the pedal can be pulled all the way back we could only get the light to go out by getting underneath the dash and pushing the actual cable attachment to trip the switch. Perhaps not so on all of them but I suspect there is a pedal stop not directly attached to the sector gear for the ratchet?? I know that diagram looks clear, but it certainly isn't easy to access in the car🙄
  4. Just make sure the parking brake arms on the rear calipers are back against the stops or they may drag. You should look at them anyway as it will give an idea if they are the cause of the slack cable.
  5. If the cable under the driver is hanging loose when the parking brake is released, the problem lies under the car. Either a sticking cable, return springs on the aforementioned arms on the rear brakes or my favorite, the equalizer connector inside the rear crossmember where it can rust enough to sort of collapse together when the parking brake is applied.
  6. I don’t know for certain what the issue is, but under normal conditions, the ignition timing should increase from the idle reading by a few degrees when dropped in gear to help pick up the increased load. No specific reading but usually around 20 degrees in park and a bit more in gear. Check diagnostics to see if it picks up the load properly. Same for IAC counts.
  7. Of course. The fans are designed to operate together. Neither runs independent of the other for both cooling and a/c operation.
  8. The prime connection can be used for testing purposes and perhaps a short drive. The fuel pump runs continuously when the engine is running in any case, but in case of emergency, such as an accident, the pump will keep running even if the engine is not, so it is not a permanent solution. With the gauge attached to the fuel rail, with the engine running, and without the fuel pump hotwired, what does the fuel pressure look like? It should be over 40 psi with the pump running and the engine off (actual spec is 43.5psi), and it should reduce to the mid 30's psi with the engine running. Blipping the throttle should instantly show an increase in fuel pressure and then back down at idle speed. There are three paths for the fuel pump to get power; through the relay on the firewall, through the oil pressure switch inside the sender and through the test connection. It should be pretty straightforward to determine if the fuel pump is at fault or one or more of the control systems?
  9. I don't want to jump into the middle of sorting out the fuel pump relay but related to that, did you try starting and running the engine with the fuel pump hotwired through the test connector? It will not do any harm and may help track down the running poorly due to fuel or spark, or maybe both.
  10. I must admit I am not clear about the conditions under which the readings are obtained. Ronnie gave sound advice to start with the fuel pump tests. I have described the following experience elsewhere some time ago but it illustrates what I think you are describing: I recently had a Reatta that showed low fuel pressure, less than 35psi with the key on and engine off. After the fuel pump did the two second prime from turning the key to run, the fuel pressure bled off almost immediately. It struggled to start without help, like a shot of ether, but the fuel pressure never rose above 33psi with the engine running. This was enough to allow low speed driving but any aggressive throttle or trying to go too fast caused the car to hesitate and bog. As the pump heated up from driving the pressure gradually decreased. What was found later while investigating was the fuel pump had been replaced at some point but the hose used to replace the factory pulsator did not have clamps installed. The hose fit loosely and allowed the pressure to partially leak away causing all the issues. By the way, the fuel pump power can be checked by probing the green connector that hangs in the vicinity of the brake power unit. This connector runs directly to the fuel pump, bypassing everything. A test light or VOM will tell you if you are getting power to the fuel pump when the key is first turned on and alternatively, 12v can be applied to the connector to Hotwire the fuel pump and cause it to run.
  11. It does get confusing when many numbers get bounced around at the same time🤪. I did mean that the O2 sensor reading, ED07, should be constantly moving. The usual range it circulates in is .2 (lean)-.8 (rich), with the crossover between rich and lean being around .45v. The cross counts, ED18, is the rate at which the O2 signals the exhaust is crossing over this target between rich and lean. There is no set figure for cross counts but generally the higher number, the better. Single digit cross counts at hot idle and in the teens and more while driving indicates a good operating system. Just a suggestion, but an inexpensive infrared temperature gun might save toasted fingers when looking for an underperforming cylinder🙂 Getting to the rear exhaust would be an adventure but you are on to a good and useful means to narrow the search. You can also go into the override section of diagnostics and turn individual fuel injectors on and off to check for changes in idle quality. Sometimes it is helpful when doing a balance test to disconnect the IAC after a warm idle is achieved or the ECM will adjust idle speed to cover for a dropped cylinder.
  12. I hope you meant ED07 when you typed ED08? Under what conditions were those readings taken? The engine must be warmed up and the exhaust hot to be sure the O2 sensor is active. If that is the case, then the ED08 should have been moving around constantly or the sensor is either dead or reading a very lean mixture. This can be caused by a misfire, which may read lean, or with both the fuel integrator and block learn maxed out, the ECM is adding as much fuel as possible. A misfire plus adding too much fuel will run very poorly. Check the fuel pressure just to rule that out. Just an outside chance and it does no harm: disconnect the MAF and see if it runs cleaner. If someone else pulled the plugs, does that include the rear ones? Unless done one at a time, and reconnected before moving on, it is quite easy to switch two of the rear ones, how well I know🙄
  13. E044 is an O2 sensor code for lean. Have you checked the fuel pressure? What does diagnostic live data show for O2 sensor activity, ED07 (voltage) and ED18 (cross counts)? Related to this are the two fueling indicators ED19 Integrator or short term adjustment and ED20 Block Learn, long term fuel adjustment. Were the coil pack and ICM both replaced? If this is a spark issue you may have two cylinders out, that would be #3 and its mate, #6. Were plugs and spark plug cables checked for quality and is there any chance plug wires were crossed on assembly?
  14. You can't go wrong purchasing from Jim. The 1990 is a one model year headlight switch. Maybe not related to your original reason for taking it apart but I highly recommend installing a headlight relay harness to take the headlight load from the switch.
  15. Not true on the LN3. Maybe later model engines are not?
  16. You can just eyeball it in the most basic way. Since everything that meshes together is curved, determining the spacing takes looking from every angle possible. The actual spacing isn’t that critical as long as nothing touches or rubs. A couple pieces of matchbook cover on either side of one vane will give reasonable proof the spacing is okay.
  17. Only you can decide if it is worth the trouble to look into it further, but if both parts have been replaced, and they are generally reliable, there is something else going on. I do not know where the wiring for the cam sensor is routed on an '88 but if similar to an '89, it runs across the front under the radiator area. I had a cam sensor code on the '89 I purchased and found the wiring cut up front, maybe from being lifted or something but splicing them back together fixed the problem. When the sensor and magnet have been replaced, does the code go away, at least temporarily? Have you cleared the codes to see what returns? Just out of curiosity, if the cam interupter (magnet) was replaced by removing the front cover, did it also get a new timing chain and sprockets?
  18. If you are familiar with LeSabre's of similar generation then it is exactly the same. Defects in the area mentioned do set any codes. Balancer and crank sensor behind it are best accessed through the wheelwell. Yes, the little shock and its mount must be removed to remove the balancer. If you have never removed the big bolt in the end of the crank, be prepared to apply lots of force. Torque spec is well over 200 lb/ft. Balancer itself is a slip fit and a puller is not needed. If the face of the balancer rubber has cracks or chunks missing, it is likely the source of the rattle at idle.
  19. There are no caps for the end of the door pull straps. The end of the strap simply inserts behind the panel itself. If you pull the ends of the straps back toward the center of the strap, the two long fasteners will be revealed.
  20. No, it is the harmonic damper on the front of the crank, not an unusual problem. Check for spark when it won’t start. Probably won’t have spark. What is your level of mechanical ability?
  21. Typical items for loss of spark when hot is Ignition Control Module under the coils or the Crank Sensor. The crank sensor generally doesn’t heal when cooled off, it stays broken, but I had one that did so, so it can happen. Check the area between the coil pack and ICM for sticky or soft material oozing out. Sure sign it is failing
  22. So much of the testing should be under load and heat that multimeter testing gives incomplete results. It is not useless, just not the full picture. Go to the Reatta Owners Journal site and look under diagnostics in the menu header and there is a link to the YouTube video of testing the module and coils
  23. If they may have been original it could just be coincidence? I use Rock Auto parts a lot, but they usually have a selection of price, brand and possibly quality, in each category, so that is a pretty wide open choice without a pattern. The hi-po Walbro I have had in my '90 has been ticking along for over 20years and has been subject to race gas and experimental fuel additives over the years, not a steady diet, but hasn't missed a beat. If it needed replacement today it would probably get a turbine style from GM designed for one of the early supercharged cars.
  24. Any particular brand or type of pump? I have never had such an issue with multiple brands of vehicles. Perhaps it is because my cars are almost always stored inside? Something odd about your gasoline?
  25. The cam sensor may have a slight advantage in smoothness at low rpms, but unlikely to have any other discernible effect. Lots of engines have been produced without the sensor at all. The little brother of the 3800, the 3300 found in early '90's midsize cars like the Century, operates in batch fire mode and has no cam sensor. Rough figures: At 1000 rpm, the intake valve is only open an appreciable amount for 1/16 of a second every two revolutions, about 62 milliseconds total time. As demand increases from throttle input and rpm, the injector is open far longer than any possible intake valve opening so it is possible to time the fuel shot only at lower speed.
  • Create New...